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Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Brian85gmc, Sep 15, 2002.
I was wondering if someone could give me a low down of what I need to do this and how?
I'm not completely wrench iliterate, so I'm sure I could figure it out with a little explaination. This would be very helpfull as I do not have the money to pay someone for this and am replacing the oil pump too.
The other day, I just lost all oil pressure unless I gave it gas so I shut it down. It then began dripping oil from what looked like the rear seal. It also would turn over like crazy but not fire up.
I think I'd pull the motor, then you'd be able to see everything. But then again, I tend to go to the extream sometimes. I'd rebuild it, but if it's not an option. What size engine ??? If it's only a 305, I'd think about swapping in a 350 or larger. You can find a good running used 350 for under $400.00 usely. I run acrost them alot up here.
yeah..........I'm still in my appartment untill the end of the month when the sellers get the hell out of my house, so I'm gonna have to just replace the seal.
I guess all I have to do is support the engine, pull the tranny and tcase back, undo the retainer and replace the seal right?
ITS GETTING THERE THATS ALL THE WORK PULL ENG. OR TRAN. AND
T CASE. OIL PUMP IS CAKE AND A ICE COLD GLASS OF MILK COMPARED TO A REAR MAIN
90 JIMMY WENT CLEAR TO THE TOP OF THE MONTAIN TODAY AND IT WAS /forums/images/icons/cool.gif
so, thats about it?
just pull back the tranny and it'll be right there?
I always droped the crank, Might aswell do the front main seal while your at it. Again, what size motor ???
while it's still in the truck....
Dude.. spend one weekend, pull the motor.. regasket everything but the heads, heck do the heads too...
A gasket kit is what 65 bucks? a one piece oil pan is 30 bucks? and new fluids...
ok you spend 150 on the gaskets and fluids.. you paint it up and your set!!!
/forums/images/icons/grin.gif /forums/images/icons/tongue.gif /forums/images/icons/wink.gif
Agreed, if you're gonna do it, do it right. Pull the motor and do all your gaskets. It may sound like alot of work, but I think it's less of a hassel then replacing the rear main seal with the motor still in the truck. I'm lazy, I've been known to drop a used motor in and rebuild or build up my main motor at my own time.
if your going to pull it out and replace gaskets , you
might as well put new bearings in it.
jeez , might as well re-build the whole motor /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
that would be great if I was'nt still in my appartment till next month.
once I'm in my house It will be different, but for now I just need to replace the rear so it will hold some oil.
So you see I would love to pull the motor, but I have nowhere to do that yet.
I hear ya. I think I'd park it till I could. You could always pick up a beater bomb for a couple hundred bucks to get ya by till then. There was a old mini-van 2 blocks away from me someone sold for $75.00 and it ran okay. I almost bought it for a parts hauler/mobile storage shed. Bald tires, dents, and tore up insides aswell as rust, but it did run okay. I see it going down the road almost everyday. Some kid driving it now.
you know I thought I had a leaking rear main seal once and I just tightned up the oil pan bolts. Got rid of it right away.
It's worth a shot...
Does it use that much oil that it wont make it a month?
It's unusual for a rear main seal to have a sudden failure. They typically start leaking a drop here and there, then get progressively worse over months or years.
But if you're sure that it's the seal, ust drop the oil pan, loosen the main bearing cap bolts and let the crank come down a quarter-inch or so. Remove the rear main cap and take the old seal out of it. You'll need a piece of stiff wire to push the old seal out of the block. It will just slide up and over the crank. Feed in the new seal in the upper half, then install the lower part into the main cap. Put a dab of RTV sealant on the ends of the seal halves, then bolt it back together. Some builders like to rotate the seal just slightly, so that the ends don't liine up directly with the part between the block and cap. Be sure that you use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts to the correct torque.
For a quick fix there isn't any reason to yank the engine or replace every gasket in the engine. Fix thte leak and keep cruising. /forums/images/icons/cool.gif
Is there a2 piece seal thats works 99% of my mecanical
work is on heavy construction stuff havent seen rope or 2
piece seals in 20 years
when i rebuilt the 350 in my 88 k1500 i am shure it was a 1 piece seal
The one piece seals showed up in 86 or so. Before that they used the 2-piece seal. They aren't interchangeable. /forums/images/icons/frown.gif
hey did not know about 2 peice seal can do that standing on your head /forums/images/icons/wink.gif
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