Replacing rear window switch

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Oblin Goblin, Feb 21, 2001.

  1. Oblin Goblin

    Oblin Goblin 1/2 ton status

    Apr 30, 2000
    Likes Received:
    Davis, CA
    Anybody know how hard it is to replace the switch in the tail gate for a power rear window? Is their alot of disassembly involved? Mine's been broken for years an it'd be nice to be able to put the rear window down without turning on the ignition and using the switch in the dash.
  2. Espen88k5

    Espen88k5 1/2 ton status

    Feb 19, 2000
    Likes Received:
    If you only knew how many times this has been covered[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    If you need quick answers use the search function and type , like I did for these: key switch tailgate
    These are just some of the exelent answers I found:
    Did a quick search:
    Since many people in the last year have posted their how to fix slow gate window problems i thought i'd share my recent adventure with my tailgate and hopefully help every one out. Tore it apart at work to replace the key switch a s i broke my key off in the darn thing last week..another story though. While i was in there i thought i'd grease every thing up as most people don't and suffer regulater wheel breakage as a result...well my whole tailgate with the exception of the regulator and the regulator transmission is brandy new..okay a year old. Whilst poking around i had the bright idea to remove the transmission and check it out...however when i reinstalled the bugger the window was real slow and would hardly move...dohh...what to do? The trans is hooked to the cable from the motor and simply spins around to make the window go up and down...but its like setting up a rear end when you install it...if you tighten the 3 bolts to tight and its not adjusted properly it will ineffect tighten the gear lash so tight the window will not budge! So grease everything up....remove the cable from the motor and loosen those 3 bolts on the twist the cable with your fingers and slowly tighten a couple of long as the window will still move with your fingers spinning the cable as you tighten the 3 bolts you are on the right track...if it stops moving loosen the 3 bolts until it frees up and jiggle the trans around until it frees up and try again. When i got home i had to do this all over as one of my wheels on the regulator broke off...and since i used my stock of regulator wheels i just replaced the whole regulator with a brandy new one i got off an EBAY auction for $9.95...hehehe. It took several hit or miss attempts to get the trans gear lash just right but it sure payed off! Now my rrear window shots up and down like a rocket...well not that fast but it does move 100% faster than it ever has before!!! So i hope this info will help out those of you trying to figure out how to improve yours!!!


    Ok, theres no real question, just gonna put down some thoughts. My rear window hasnt worked in 3 months, and today I got tires of loading me and 3 friends sports equipment in through the front, so when I got homw I decided to give a go at figuring this out. I pulled the plug on the motor and tested it for power. There was no power at the plug, so I figured it must be the cuttout switch. Not wanting to wait for a new one, and not willing to take the old one out etc., I decided that I dont need a cuttout switch, thinking that I would be smart enough not to open the window with the tailgate open. So just to test it, I pulled the plug off of the cutout switch, and stuck a wire connecting the two ends of the plug, and then wrapping it with electrical tape. I turn the key and... nothing. I went back and checked the connection and tried it again... nothing. So I turned the engine on, just to see if that would make a difference, and when I hit the switch for the window, I know that it was drawing power from the battery because the engine slowed, but the window didnt move. So I figured, maybe the connection still wasnt good, so I figured I would just cout off the plug and splice the two wired together to make sure I had a good connection, So I cut off the plug, but I cant find the d@%n wire strippers. Note I am doing all of this from a closed tailgate lying on my back, and I can just barely reasch the wires, and tried futily to strip the wires with scisors, that didnt work... darn it. Its always the little things like a lost pair of wire strippers to ruin your day. I hate electrical stuff... Sorry I went so long, wish me luck tommorow. By God that window will work again!

    Blazer: A hole in the air, surrounded by metal, into which one pours money

    I rebuilt the switch.Just as above get the switch out.Basically there is a "U" shaped contact with a cam in the middle .The cam is turned by the key.When turned the cam causes the "U" shaped contact to touch the outer contact and the window moves. On mine the contacts on both sides of the "U" were burnt. So I cleaned them off best I could and took the brass bottom part to an old bulb and a set of sidecuts and made 2 pieces just a wide as the contact and long enough to bend in half and go over it. I then soldered it in place where the old contacts were and it works like a charm.Seemed more fun then to but a new one for $50.00. For a more detailed scenerio just ask...


    Only guy I know that can get out of line in a one car funeral

    and last but not least:
    One of the Blazer-charmes it seems.
    Open the acces-panel (20 Screws)
    "Click" over the catch on the tailgate on the drivers side.
    place garden-furniture to suport window as you roll it open.
    You can disconnect the cable at the motor and run it up with a Power-drill instead.(lots of fun).
    With the window out of the way you can remove the regulator-assembly 3-4 bolts and the hole thing can be taken out with ease.
    Now first you can get to the key-switch assembly. 2 quick nuts, jiggle and its out. Inspect, clean and order new parts. Somewhere along, following this process you will find youre "gremlin".
    Good luck

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