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RIDE QUALITY !!! 4in lift

thejimmy

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IVE OWNED MY 91 JIMMY for 11 years, its been mostly babbied all of its life, (even before me) but its got 268000 mi on it (34000 on goodwrench stock crate motor) and about 30000 on goodwrench 700R4, but the springs are spongy and the bushings are all dried up. So, Ive got a skyjacker softride 4in (Springs front and rear) all bushings,shackle bushings too, and oe cab mount bushings. extended stainless brake lines,dual steering stabilizer, Bilstein 5100 shocks for all 4 corners,t-case lowering kit (questionable) raised steering arm and all new bolts and hardware. Putting BFG mud terrain KM2 35-12.50 15 on 15x10's. Im hoping this will handle good and ride pretty good, Its mostly a daily driver (on road) with occasional trips to the lake pulling the boat with the top off. Any input on that combination of parts or tips on making it better?
 
well, just a general note that a shackle flip out back with a stock spring would be much smoother than a lift spring..

put it together and tweak it from there.. you should be happy with the Bilsteins...
 
Sounds like you have what you need and it will ride fine. Wouldn't worry about lowering t-case until you're sure you have a driveline angle problem.
 
How big a boat? With my 4" lift and 35's, I tried towing our 19' Mastercraft behind it. You definitely can feel the short wheelbase. Also, what gears for the rear end do you have?

I only went a few miles so the jury is still out for longer distant runs but I certainly feel better towing with the suburban than the 89' K5.

Keep in mind, your new parts will help a lot.....mine are pretty tired/unknown age from PO.
 
Yea, I just felt like the stock springs were all used up, feels like it leans more to one side than the other when turning.
 
Good looking 89 . mine is white too. 3.42s are whats in it now, did some formulas on tire rack.com and sounds like I could use a 3.90 , may try a 4.10 ?
 
For regular driving I went from stock to 4" Skyjacker softride front springs and blocks in the rear with generic shocks, and kept the same tires (which is an important note because tires can cause a big change in ride and handling). I thought ride and handling were better with the lift, and I'm sure some of that was attributed to simpy having new shocks vs. worn out originals.

I also agree that a shackle flip in the back would generally ride better than lift springs, but with that many miles a fresh set of springs may be needed.
 
Ive had a few people say it rides better than stock so thats what im hoping for!
 
You're running a 700r4 and plan on doing alot of towing, I would highly suggest going with 4.56 gears at minumum. I'm running 35" tires on a 4" lift with 350/700 with 4.10 gears and it tends to hunt quite a bit between OD and 3rd, but while in 3rd the engine RPM's just seem to high for comfortable longer distance highway driving speeds.
 
I agree with 4xcrazy 100 %. I have an 86 K19 SWB with 4' lift and 35's and can say it does look for that right gear alot. I run about 2k at 73 mph with a 700r4 and 4.10's.
 
i'd go with at least 4.56:1......i will not turn this into a towing thread :D. and imo those tires aren't a very good choice for a daily driver. you may need a zero rate out back as some lift kits will sit lower in the back, especially on a K5 as it's heavier in the rear than a K10......you'll know after it's all in.
 
Hey guys thanks for the replys on gearing. Think Ill hook up a tach and see where Im at now and then do some more figureing. Not going to do a lot of towing just the boat occasionaly. I get in the mid 15mpg range now I reset trip meter and check it every time i fill up ( yep ! Im anal ) hope to stay as close to that as possible.
 
Sense you plan for it to be mostly a driver and part time towing rig, i'd say new rear lift springs are a smarter choice than the shackle flip and old worn out springs. Not every one needs mad flex.

Also, I'd vote for the sway bar disconnects. I just installed them on my 6" lifted rig and it took the harshness out of front end big time! I don't think I ever plan to disconnect them, its just a better design than stock.

Build it for how you're going to use it :thumb:
 
Yea some people say even no sway bar is ok,but Im trying to get some of the body roll out of it so that when I turn left my hacky sack dont slide from d side of dash to p side of dash. (THATS RIGHT I STILL GOT A HAKEY SACK)
 
I think if you're going to pack your blazer full of camping gear and hook your boat to it, the new rear springs are going to be a nice addition and the sway bar WILL help. Like I said, build for your intended useage. With the Disconnects, you could always...disconnect em:dunno:, should you want to bust some trail moves.

My truck is a 3/4 ton with 56" rears and add a leafs :eek1::eek1::eek1: I know, the next step is just to weld the leaves together, right? WRONG. I have a canopy full of tools and a 10' tool trailer i haul part time. It rides better than the stock 3/4 tons i've owned.
 
Yep ! just looking to tighten it up and make it look Damn good! Hopefully new paint after all this.
 
Just checked last night, GPS verified.

70 MPH, rpms were around 1650-1700 (small dia. tach so hard to tell :dunno:).

3:73 gears, 35" tires, 700r4 tranny (stock drivetrain).
 
Thanks . Yea Ive got 3.42s so it would be even lower rpms. Were you in od at 70 mph?
 
If you run 35's with a 700r4 and 3.42's you can and you WILL kill that trans in very short order. If you are going to do it then do it correctly and regear or leave it alone.
 
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