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Discussion in 'The Garage' started by BigOrange90Jimmy, Apr 22, 2003.
I need to know the width of a 2.5 ton Rockwell front and rear axle.
I dont have the #s off hand but the front is wider like a dually. The front hubs can be flipped w/ a bit of work to match the track width.
Take a look at the post on 2 foot blocks and theres a good view of the rear hubs, I guess they can be turned around from what Ive read and seen pics of for the front to square it up.
www.usa6x6.com they sell narrowed ones. Still don't know the sizes.
AFAIK Daniel narrows the housing and axles to fit any size ya want. Stock size fits F/S rigs pretty good from the ones Ive seen at http://ChucksTrucks.net
yeah, Id like to know this too... narrowing an axle costs $ to do and then stock shafts wont fit either. that sucks. I'd run rockwells at full width if it wasnt toooo wide. so... who knows? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Daniel includes the narrower shafts in his price to cut down the housing. I think it's like $400. As cheap and easy as it looks, I'm confident I could do it or have someone around here do it for less than having to ship the axle all the way to him and back.
The housing is the "easy" part, how do you plan to spline the axles?
What is this going onto? A F/S rig doesnt need them narrowed, just the front hubs flipped to square them up. Check some of the pics at Chucks...he even has some of a Blazer someone at his shop built. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
Chucks Trucks Blazer
I'd get the shafts from Daniel since he can do them. My original plan on the Toy consisted of 1 ton axles underneath it, but I feel I will be breaking it too much for my lazy ass. I just want it done right the first time, and for me a complete set of locked and brake equipped Rockwells are cheaper than a locked and rebuilt set of 1 ton axles.
[ QUOTE ]
a complete set of locked and brake equipped Rockwells are cheaper than a locked and rebuilt set of 1 ton axles.
[/ QUOTE ] /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif True that. Thats whats got me looking into Rocks, I can get a pair and do the brakes for what the front 60 will cost by the time I regear and such.
Why not just run them full width?
I didn't know if they were absolutely TOO wide for trail use. I know kicking them down the highway is no problem, but just getting them up a trail is my main concern.
I liked the picture of the forklift helping to unload /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Well this should put things in perspective for ya concerning the width. V8 Sami on Rocks /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
looks like they should fit a fullsize purdy good... samis are micro...
<font color="green"> 80in WMS-WMS with hubs flipped out
70in WMS-WMS with hubs flipped in
A D60 or 8 lug D44/10 bolt is about 67" IIRC, so even with the hubs flipped you're going to be a bit wider than that. I think that when you flip the hubs is when you start having all kinds of problems running brakes at the wheels. Daniel may make a kit to solve this, otherwise you need to run pinion brakes, which opens up a whole other can of worms. </font>
for an off-road only rig a pinion brake shouldnt be too big a deal should it?
This whole flipping the hubs deal, is that like turning a DRW D60 into a SRW D60? I was planning on running a van-width 14B in the back, so I was going to be pretty wide from the get-go.
What's the deal with pinion brakes?
<font color="green"> Easiest thing for you to do to find out about the pinion brakes would be to go search PBB. They've been having alot of debates about them lately.
The gist is that they work OK with all 4 wheels on the ground, but they get real hot real fast, to the point of making the rotor glow. The added gear reduction of the rockwell is useless to make the brake more effective like one would intuitively think. You're basically using half the brakes to stop the truck, unless you do like some and only run one pinion brake and no brakes on teh other axle, then you're using 1/4 the brakes as stock.
If you lift a wheel and do not have a spool then the brake stops working since the spiders in the diff start spinning, the tire in the air gets all the brake power and the one on the ground spins merrily down the hill. If you're locked into 4wd then this won't happen unless you have one tire on each axle lifted. A detroit will apaprantly not prevent this from happening.
This is just a quick overview of some of the things that I have read about them.</font>
I agree w/ Evan on searching PBB. There is more Rockwell info there than you can handle.
I've been searching Pirate but I haven't gotten to this point yet. That is pretty worrying about the brakes. I had read about the rotors getting hot, but Daniel said that if you use a higher quality pad and a larger rotor that it isn't too big of an issue. The only bad aspect of it that I'm seeing is the brakes. Other than that it's a go.
Pretty much I was going to weld up the diffs, throw on some hydro steer and beat the hell out of em. If it's welded then I don't have the freewheel brake issue. A bigger and probably cross-drilled and slotted rotor is no problem.
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