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Rookie need a little help...

L

Losthills78

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Pueblo co.
As some of u know im looking to change the bearings on my front axle.. I have iner and outer also spindle bearings.. Today I unlocked the 4wheel drive the passinger side wheel was stuck.. There was alot of dirt in the hub it self.. Wats the best way to start this project.. Step by step would be nice if possible..
 
There may be a post here that has it step by step with pictures, I'm not sure. You would probably have to be a paid member to view it even so.

But, the best way to start, is to just start.
If you have done any mechanical work before, its fairly self explanatory. Take out bolts, part comes off.
Look at the next part, look to see what is holding it on. Remove that, go deeper.

The information part comes when you start back with it. You will need to know how much torque to put on nuts, and how to install bearings and races.

For now, just jack up one side, put it on some kind of stand and remove the tire. Take the bolts out of the hub, and start taking it off. When you get stumped, write back and someone will tell you what is next.

Since its your first time, do one side at a time!

If you get stumped, you have another side to look at.
 
Step 1 is get thee to your local parts house and buy a repair manual

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...2557&keyword=repair+manual&pt=03501&ppt=C0008

Which will have step-by-step for such things. Well worth it, even for the procedures you DON'T do ... when you see one that says 'Step 1. Remove engine. See section 347" you know you're in waaay over your head. :haha:

If on the other hand step 1 says "Put vehicle on stands and remove tires", you say to yourself, "Hey, I can manage that" ... and off you go.

Fordum's dead on, too, for left/right jobs, do one side at a time the first time. I *ALWAYS* do drum brakes this way, even though I allegedly know what I'm doing, so that I can scoot over to the other side and see how those finicky stupid springs and levers go. :D

In this case, while you're at the parts house you'll need a hub socket ... four-pin, big honkin' thing like these

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/KDT0/2467.oap?ck=Search_socket+-+axle+%26+spindle+nut_1061536_2557&keyword=socket+-+axle+%26+spindle+nut

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...1536_2557&keyword=socket+-+axle+&+spindle+nut

And a torque wrench, plus your basic set of hand tools. (Which are all explained in the first bit of the repair manual too! :) )

Anyway from memory: remove the hub covers (1/8" Allen wrench / hex key), remove the hub (pick or small flathead, swearing), remove the locknut (big socket, screwdriver, swearing), then the rotor/hub assembly is loose, pull the outer bearing, and the inner one comes off with the hub, that seal on the back holds it in.

Ah yes, I forgot remove the caliper (3/8" hex, dusty) -- again, the manual would be good as it gives you the right order in which to pull things. :D

Lots of rags, clean the spindle and give it the ole "visual inspection", i.e. look at it. If it's scarred and pitted, that's bad; if it's smooth, you're good. As the book says, "installation is the reverse of removal." :deal:

-- A
 
Thanks guys got the manual and got the tool I needed to start.. That first nut is gana be a pain just by looking at it.. ill be up 9 am ready to break some stuff.. I know already I want to go manual on the hubs first chance I get... How do u check ball joints ?? :thumb:
 
Jack it up, put a bar under the tire, and lift up and down. If it wiggles, look to see if its the ball joints moving or the wheel bearings.
If you know what the ball joints are, its obvious when you see a worn one.

If you are as big as a house, you can do away with the bar. Just grab it and shake the heck out of it. You are trying to lean it in and out at the top, is the best way to describe it.
 
Said another way, grab the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and wiggle.

Now, if your bearings are that bad and/or the hub nut is loose, you'll have play because of them. If the tire also wiggles when you grab it at 3 and 9 o'clock, then you gotta go deal with that first. (Could be bearings, could be steering stuff too ... one thing at a time.)

To check the ball joints while you're down to the bare spindle, try and move the spindle up and down (same motion as grabbing the tire at 6 and 12.)

-- A
 
That would be nice.. Only time I get weekends off is wen im on vacation.. I noticed on the cap there was some grease and grit leaking out on the driver side and some dirt but it still looked greased.. Steering stuff on the other hand looked beat to crap...there is popping on the driver side also more play.. 12 & 6 and 3 & 9..
 
There is a video on Youtube that shows the entire process step by step, although the camera isn't exactly up close. I believe the account name was "Jeepster", and it was done on a suburban. I used it as a guide the first time I did my bearings.

Oh, and you'll need a torque wrench to set the spindle locking nuts to spec.
 
Got called into work.. Im gana have to put it off till next week:doah:.. So ill be youtubing and reading up on it a little more.. Thanks for all the help guys.. Im planning for next monday and tus..
 
4wd socket is nice to get the hubs off. Otherwise a screwdriver and hammer will do the trick. First take brake caliper off. Then take the first nut off, then a locking type ring slides out, then take the final nut out. Grab rotor, pull and wiggle, der ya go. Take seal and bearings out, get the races out of the hubs with screwdriver or something being somewhat careful, put the new ones in, without scratching the race surface, I used a peice of brass round stock. Pack your bearings and put new seal on, and the spindle bearings are good. Is that what ur lookin for??
 
Tried to lock the hubs today and yup driver side hub aint locking so looks like hubs are going to be swiched out... Thanks again for the how to video.. Those are a big big help.. I priced the kit and hubs comes out to bout $170.. Little by little right..:waytogo:
 
Losthills78 said:
Whats a good tool to get a good grip on those pins to loosen the hub up??
Click to expand...

I assume you mean the wheel hub, i.e. the thing the rotor is mounted to, and not the locking hub on the outside.

Pretty sure I gave two links to the "4wd socket" for those big nuts. I've heard tell that a flathead and hammer can do it, but I'd rather use the right tool for the job.

Once the nut is off, a curved pick or a pair of needle nose should be able to pull the lock nut gizmo.

-- A
 
Buy the socket. You can not get the correct torque when putting it back together without it. And you will use it over and over again.
 
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