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Rusted winch brushes...(update: will these brushes work?)

Fred_M1010

Fred_M1010

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My winch stopped working a while ago.
I opened it and found that the brushes had seized because of rust:doah:
3414201210144851d6.jpg


I've got a new set of brushes and a new mount for them,
but how can I prevent this from happening again?
The winch was only 2 years old, and I don't drive a lot in mud...

1img-4531.jpg


Would a non conductive grease work?
Or will it just absorb the dust from the brushes, and be conductive anyway...:dunno:
 
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Subscribed for ideas. I have tried a lot of things. Grease seems to attract dirt/dust/carbon and gum things up faster. None of the housings I've ever rebuilt seemed to be possible to seal up with silicone either...All efforts to seal housings with silicone resulted in holding water in instead of keeping it out.

I wonder why there hasn't been a bigger movement for a properly sealed housing with a better heat exchanger for the motor.
 
Your winch got that way from lack of use. If you free spool your cable and just spin the motor like once a month or after wet wheather. That should keep the brushes and contact points clean. I wouldn't try to seal up the housing, the motor needs fresh air to stay cool. The contact grease will keep the rust away but attract dust and dirt which imo it's easier to deal with dirty than rusty. Also get some electric motor cleaner that should help to.
 
Ok, I think I'll try applying just a little bit of grease then.
And I probably should use it some more. It's been sitting way too much lately :o
Could it really be that important for cooling, not having it completely sealed up?
I mean it's not like it will be any exchange of the air inside it, without having a fan blowing through it :dunno:
Not that the sealing did me much good though...
I tried sealing up everything when I first installed the winch, and like you say,
it just seems to keep the water in instead of keeping it out :doah:
 
Ok it's not so much about getting cool air in. It's having a way for the heat to dissipate. The rest is all about preventive maintance, say when you grease the chassis check the winch.
 
Sealing is not a good idea unless its hermetically sealed, which is not going to happen.
There is a lot of mass in that motor so it does not change temp. quickly. After a cold night it will sweat internally unless it gets ventilation.
Actually it will sweat regardless, but if its sealed the moisture will stay in there.

If you use grease, be careful. Make sure that it cannot get on the working part of the brushes.
If it gets on them where they touch the armature, the motor won't work.
 
When I was trying to install the new brushes I saw that they where a little wider than the old ones.
The old ones was as wide as 2 contact-surfaces on the rotor, but the new ones covers 2.5
So each pair of the new brushes can have up to 4 windings connected at the same time,
while the old ones only could connect only 3.

Am I right in assuming that it would be a little stronger but draw a little more current with the new brushes?

Or would the first and last of the connected windings be too far apart angle wise, so it does more harm than good?
(making them too far off with concern to the magnetizing field) :dunno:

Another thing that made me wonder, was that there's 29 contact surfaces on the rotor...
Shouldn't it be an even number?
 
ryoken said:
no help on the brush dif's, but ya might wanna try douching it with some of this

http://www.google.com/shopping/product/6987990900281758537?q=corrosion%20inhibitor&hl=en&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.&bvm=bv.42661473,d.dmQ&biw=1600&bih=790&wrapid=tlif136153931606310&sa=X&ei=GxsmUdC9HcyN0QGProGYCg&ved=0CIMBEPMCMAM


we use it on windlass motors, electrical connections, etc in the boats...
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll try looking for it over here.
Does it become dry like paint, or is it more like wax or grease?
 
Fred_M1010 said:
When I was trying to install the new brushes I saw that they where a little wider than the old ones.
The old ones was as wide as 2 contact-surfaces on the rotor, but the new ones covers 2.5
So each pair of the new brushes can have up to 4 windings connected at the same time,
while the old ones only could connect only 3.

Am I right in assuming that it would be a little stronger but draw a little more current with the new brushes?

Or would the first and last of the connected windings be too far apart angle wise, so it does more harm than good?
(making them too far off with concern to the magnetizing field) :dunno:

Another thing that made me wonder, was that there's 29 contact surfaces on the rotor...
Shouldn't it be an even number?
Click to expand...

I need to think about the brush width but the odd number for the contacts is right because that makes it that at every position there is at least one winding energized.
If even you will end up with a dead spot on both sides.
 
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