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Rusty: Resurrected

AugustDiesel

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I love the front bumper. Any way to add a brace from the outside lower corner to the frame? I can see that getting bumped either off-roading or in an accident and flexing into the body. I'm assuming it's too high and the body is in the way or the brace would get in the way of the tire.

I looked into that and there may be something in a Rev3, right now there’s no room. Doesn’t mean something can’t be done in the future.
 

mrk5

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My front bumper/grill guard sits higher on one side. I wouldn't worry about it too much. Do much twisty wheeling with it and and the body panels get all of whack anyway. The difference could be in the body, mounts, or frame.
 

AugustDiesel

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My front bumper/grill guard sits higher on one side. I wouldn't worry about it too much. Do much twisty wheeling with it and and the body panels get all of whack anyway. The difference could be in the body, mounts, or frame.

I figured as much. Let’s call it character.

Getting the tire rack pieces painted today. Two things I find amazing: 1) primer’s ability to show all imperfections -and- 2) those imperfections’ ability to make me feel like I built a crappy product.

I probably should have had these sand blasted to remove the old paint, but there are not many sand blasting places in my area.

I know the black paint will hide a lot of the imperfections, as well as the tire itself. Oh well, more character.

B7DB5390-EA8D-44C9-AB00-0D690E4AB196.jpeg 927122C9-2707-43B5-B7DA-04FF77FF80E9.jpeg

Andy
 

mrk5

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No one will ever look at it as closely as you. All those imperfections you know are there 95% of people will never notice and the other 5% might notice but won't care.

I see rust and rock rash on other rigs and I think it's cool character. I see it on my own rig and it gives me a complex. :rotfl:
 

AugustDiesel

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No one will ever look at it as closely as you. All those imperfections you know are there 95% of people will never notice and the other 5% might notice but won't care.

I see rust and rock rash on other rigs and I think it's cool character. I see it on my own rig and it gives me a complex. :rotfl:

Yeah, I’m definitely a victim of the “you’re your own worst critic” mentality, as I’m sure most of us are.
 

rderosier

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I figured as much. Let’s call it character.

Getting the tire rack pieces painted today. Two things I find amazing: 1) primer’s ability to show all imperfections -and- 2) those imperfections’ ability to make me feel like I built a crappy product.

I probably should have had these sand blasted to remove the old paint, but there are not many sand blasting places in my area.

I know the black paint will hide a lot of the imperfections, as well as the tire itself. Oh well, more character.

View attachment 392081 View attachment 392082

Andy
At first glance I thought this was a weight rack and you were going the deadlift route to get the tire up and down.
 

AugustDiesel

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At first glance I thought this was a weight rack and you were going the deadlift route to get the tire up and down.

For now, the deadlift route is going to have to work. For the tire rack as designed, this linear actuator is simply too long and I don’t have the brain power to figure out how to make it work without further reconstruction, which I’m not interested in doing. Plus, the 450 lb load capacity doesn’t seem like it’s going to cut it for this. An appropriately loaded and lengthed ram will easily be a $500 investment.

I’d rather spend that money on more tube to finish the roof rack and then snag an atv winch like y’all have been suggesting.

Frankly, I feel like I have egg on my face. I’ve been making a big deal about this grand idea and hadn’t even confirmed it would work. I mean, in general, it will work, and I thoroughly expected it to work, and there are others on this board doing it, but, I suppose I pulled the trigger on the purchase a little early, nearly two years ago, before I even had a tire rack designed. Now I have an actuator I can’t use. At least not for this. Time to come up with some other use for it.

I guess it’s easy to get pumped up about possibilities.
 

AugustDiesel

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On a different note, I’ve been able to drive the truck around my part of town a couple of times this week, and so far am very pleased with the forties. The C rating is certainly softer than the E rated 37, as well as the naturally lower tire pressure. The mashup of the 40s, 4.88s, 700, and 6.5 all really seem to work well together. The 6.5 doesn’t scream as much, is in a happier relationship with the forties.

And I really like NOT having the hi lift in the cab. Even if it is just sitting in the garage right now. It’s always made so much noise.

With any luck, all of this should get installed tomorrow.

E15ACDE7-F7BE-48D4-B9A0-3F39B358B532.jpeg

Andy
 

AugustDiesel

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Grand ideas are needed to be able to move forward most times.

You should see the 48 build in my head. If 50% of it works, I might get to wheel it one day.

True, at the very least, got me thinking about the NEED for a lift assist.

That 48 will be one cool ride.
 

imiceman44

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For now, the deadlift route is going to have to work. For the tire rack as designed, this linear actuator is simply too long and I don’t have the brain power to figure out how to make it work without further reconstruction, which I’m not interested in doing. Plus, the 450 lb load capacity doesn’t seem like it’s going to cut it for this. An appropriately loaded and lengthed ram will easily be a $500 investment.

I’d rather spend that money on more tube to finish the roof rack and then snag an atv winch like y’all have been suggesting.

Frankly, I feel like I have egg on my face. I’ve been making a big deal about this grand idea and hadn’t even confirmed it would work. I mean, in general, it will work, and I thoroughly expected it to work, and there are others on this board doing it, but, I suppose I pulled the trigger on the purchase a little early, nearly two years ago, before I even had a tire rack designed. Now I have an actuator I can’t use. At least not for this. Time to come up with some other use for it.

I guess it’s easy to get pumped up about possibilities.
I can show you exactly what you need to make the actuator work but it will be at the bottom of the bumper which will put it in harms way so I don't think it's a viable option.
And to make it work on pull to be out of harms way, it needs to be hinged above the bumper which puts it on the tailgate or the barn door which ever you have.
The winch idea is your best bet even if it's not the fanciest idea
 

AugustDiesel

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I can show you exactly what you need to make the actuator work but it will be at the bottom of the bumper which will put it in harms way so I don't think it's a viable option.
And to make it work on pull to be out of harms way, it needs to be hinged above the bumper which puts it on the tailgate or the barn door which ever you have.
The winch idea is your best bet even if it's not the fanciest idea

I’m always intrigued by ideas so if you have some, please share.

Seems like when I moved the tire rack up to the top tube of the bumper, I lost the best viable option for hinging the actuator. Which is fine, I’m okay with that sacrifice, because I really didn’t like it being on the bottom. An actuator could still work, it would just need to hinge from the diamond plate at least, perhaps from the back edge, but I need a shorter one with a higher load capacity which is just not the most effective use of funds right now.

In my humble opinion, any kind of lift assist is fancy, so I’m still happy with alternatives to this actuator.
 

stan1688

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What about mounting the actuator along the frame (or inside the bumper, or anywhere else out of the way) and link a cable and a series of pulleys to the end of it? You could also double the length of the cable and have a "snatch block" at the top of the tire carrier to double the pulling power of the actuator.
 

AugustDiesel

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What about mounting the actuator along the frame (or inside the bumper, or anywhere else out of the way) and link a cable and a series of pulleys to the end of it? You could also double the length of the cable and have a "snatch block" at the top of the tire carrier to double the pulling power of the actuator.

Im going to have to think on this for a while before I’ll be able to comprehend it :D:whistle:
 

AugustDiesel

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Went ahead and mounted the tire, jack, and license plate. Also spent some time yesterday wallowing out the D Ring mounts on the front bumper so I could mount the heavier 6.5 ton shackles.

I’ll admit, this is a lot of weight to lift. I can’t decide if it’s more or less weight than the 37 and V1 tire rack. I’m sure it is more, with the 40, jack, and heavier rack. Nonetheless, I’m motivated to get a winch mounted up top to assist with the effort.

92C35ACA-5FE3-4E26-BFC9-8EEF9403A52D.jpeg 11107B99-B2BD-49D7-8705-210266E61537.jpeg 6BA5A813-774E-4446-8EA1-35802899AE3C.jpeg 4E3201FB-A3F5-4883-BF31-8BEECBD86BA3.jpeg E6D288C5-FAB6-4D37-A660-ECC540005509.jpeg FF4F6629-3F98-4928-92F9-5C9F33E1F5F2.jpeg A747C661-32C9-4B49-85ED-75F8658A64B6.jpeg 69635BBF-3609-4E6D-8E25-DF7223B7C08A.jpeg

Andy
 

ktmoutfront

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Heres how my brain works when I see it all together. Roller on the top of the front bumper. Cree curved LED light bar above the windshield with a roller on it and a roller on the back bar. Done. Easy peazy.

Follow me for more ridiculous thoughts and ideas.

Looks good so far.
 

mrk5

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I like the ATV winch on the rack idea. I'll bet you can figure out other uses for that little winch too.
 

ZooMad75

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I like the ATV winch on the rack idea. I'll bet you can figure out other uses for that little winch too.
Not being critical in the least here, but man that seems to be a lot of effort needing to be done just to even open the back doors to get something.

I went through this with the temporary swing down tire Carrier we built for mine. Any time I needed something out of the back the tire has to go down. Then it's got to go back up. (yes I pulled out of the driveway at least once with it down) That's just normal use, running errands too. Factor in camping/wheeling and anytime I needed something it went down again.

I'm not saying scrap the design as it is well done. Plus I doubt a swing out style spindle can really hold the weight of a 40" wheel and tire combo.

But as often as you'll need to get in the back of the burb try to make it as simple as possible to handle the lower and lifting. Like when you to get the ATV winch set up, make sure at least the passenger side door can open clear of the cable you can get what you need quick and not have to always disconnect the cable to get the door open. Even if that means off setting the winch to clear.
I'm just throwing out the thought starters since the actuator didn't pan out.
 
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