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Safety reminder - RETORQUE YOUR UBOLTS............

BurbinOR

3/4 ton status
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Not as seemingly important as safety glasses but still important. ]Re-tightening your ubolt nuts to the proper torque. Did the one ton conversion in late May of 01, and retorqued the wheels and ubolts three times during the first month, and one other time. Well went back through the whole truck's suspension last weekend during a maintenance/grease job thrashing and noticed 3 of the 16 bolts were rather..................loose. Not loose as in finger tight but loose as in not torqued to anything near 150 lb/ft.

Just thought this was worth mentioning, since I did the retorque thing 4 times since the conversion.



<font color=blue>'79 ONE TON TPI K5 - See it at---&gt;&lt;a target="_blank" href=http://www.blazzinor.rockcrawler.com/&gt;BlazzinOR's Beast Buildup&lt;/a&gt;<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small">Edited by BlazzinOR on 01/16/02 09:41 AM.</FONT></P>
 
Re: One more safety reminder..............

good tip.things tend to loosen up on trucks...especially ones that vibrate down the road on boggers,ect
 
TTT - think its important based on my experience.

<font color=blue>'79 ONE TON TPI K5 - See it at---&gt;<a target="_blank" href=http://www.blazzinor.rockcrawler.com/>BlazzinOR's Beast Buildup</a>
 
That's why I use red Loc-Tite on all my u-bolts.
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150ft/lbs seems kinda tight dont it, I think 115 to 120 would be good enough wouldnt it. I think on my buddies block kit it said to go around 105ft/lbs.
On my truck, both sets of springs I have put in, I have torqued them to 120, then drove it for a day, then retorqued them and they stayed torqued. Ran the first set for 1 1/2 years and they were okay when I changed them.

4 wheeling is like sex, when its good, its really, really good, when its bad its still pretty good.
 
yes on a block kit i can see it being lower. cast aluminum is weak. it keeps things from cracking.
i dont see a problem with 150ft lbs. seems a bit tight. but i work on helicopters and we use some WEAK TQ's for some things you would think would be as tight as the biggest wrench can go. so 150 seams kind of weak at the same time. think of how much TQ you are putting out at your wheels. LOTS.
Grant

1974 Chevy Blazer Cheyanne. but it is on 33's now, with saggy old springs. i am in Yuma Arizona if ya got any parts for me.
 
I dont think I have seen a Cast aluminum block kit before.

4 wheeling is like sex, when its good, its really, really good, when its bad its still pretty good.
 
Hmmm, not sure I would want loc-tite on them. How do you retorque them when they stretch? Seems to me, that's what causes the need to retorque.

Russ

85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, 205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
Some day: 4" lift, 44" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
 
i have some. not on my truck. blocks are good for one thing in my mind. keep my truck from rolling away while i have it torn apart. i have not really looked at other blocks. but most of the ones i have seen are cast. never paid attention to what they are made of. but mine are Alu.
Grant

1974 Chevy Blazer Cheyanne. but it is on 33's now, with saggy old springs. i am in Yuma Arizona if ya got any parts for me.
 
I have some 8" blocks out back. Hmm, I think I've still got some 12" too. In fact, I've got a pair of 8" blocks under the front of my truck now. Everybody complains that blocks under the front are not safe but, I disagree. I think it's much safer with them under there...

Russ

85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, 205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
Some day: 4" lift, 44" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
 
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