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school me on hydroboost...please send pics...

twoslo4five0

twoslo4five0

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Im thinking of doing hydroboost on my burb....the thing is hard to stop with 35s...it really bad when towing (actually have to use the trailer brakes to stop the truck)...so now im contiplating a hydroboost swap...is it a hard swap???ive been talking to kennyw about a booster and master cylinder he has...he says all i will need is a T in my p/s line and few new hoses fill me in on this..is hydroboost worth the time and money???any pics would also be helpfull....Also part numbers and cost would be great...im on a preety tight budget so that would be helpfull...
 
twoslo4five0 said:
Im thinking of doing hydroboost on my burb....the thing is hard to stop with 35s...it really bad when towing (actually have to use the trailer brakes to stop the truck)...so now im contiplating a hydroboost swap...is it a hard swap???ive been talking to kennyw about a booster and master cylinder he has...he says all i will need is a T in my p/s line and few new hoses fill me in on this..is hydroboost worth the time and money???any pics would also be helpfull....Also part numbers and cost would be great...im on a preety tight budget so that would be helpfull...
Click to expand...


I'm doing a Hydratech hydroboost kit.
complete bolt on.
Totally worth the money hands down.
Plan to spend between $400.00 to $800.00 just for a brand new kit. Or if you're patient you can pull one off of a donor vehicle for about $100.00
 
If I were you, buy a new booster, master cylinder, pump and lines. It'll cost you around 200-300 but well worth the knowlege of having new/reman stuff. I love mine, and I wouldnt go back.
 
I have hydroboost on my DD (Suburban). Vaccum brakes on my other 2 running vehicles bugs the buhjeezus out of me. Feels like there's a time-delay on them.

I tee for the return lines could work... factory uses a p/s canister with an extra return fitting. I've seen people braze an extra fitting on too.
 
Have factory hydroboost on my 1031 and have installed it on my '56. The next one I install will be on the K5. It's well worth the time to install. Just find a donor vehicle and get the parts!
 
twoslo4five0 said:
Im thinking of doing hydroboost on my burb....the thing is hard to stop with 35s...it really bad when towing (actually have to use the trailer brakes to stop the truck)...so now im contiplating a hydroboost swap...is it a hard swap???ive been talking to kennyw about a booster and master cylinder he has...he says all i will need is a T in my p/s line and few new hoses fill me in on this..is hydroboost worth the time and money???any pics would also be helpfull....Also part numbers and cost would be great...im on a preety tight budget so that would be helpfull...
Click to expand...

Well, you also need the brake pedal from the donor truck -- they are different from a vacuum boost pedal.

It is not a hard swap. I did hydroboost at the same time as I did rear disc on my dually and all manner of other stuff, so I have no direct before/after comparison. However, my dually STOPS now, which it didn't used to :D

Also, I would NOT use a tee in the return line, but get a pump that has the two return fittings. At the very least, pay attention to these pix I found somewhere on this topic:

tfitting2.jpg


tfitting1.jpg


Also, be sure your existing pads/calipers/shoes/drums/hoses are all good, as pushing them more/differently won't do any good if they're the problem.

Also be sure to cap off the vacuum line from your carb or TBI to the vacuum booster ;)

-- A
 
No tee x 2

I tried the tee method, but the brakes felt like they were dragging. :eek1:

I brazed an extra nipple on the power steering pump and the dragging went away.
 
To note: the pumps for hydroboost make more pressure than a normal pump. Ive heard of people having problems by going the stock pump route.
 
neverendingproject said:
To note: the pumps for hydroboost make more pressure than a normal pump. Ive heard of people having problems by going the stock pump route.
Click to expand...
Not being an ME, be sure you mean 'pressure' when you might mean 'flow'. (EDIT: that means *I* can never remember which is which =)

Also, the aftermarket reman pumps often have the same part # for either app, and just the reservoir differs.

I dinked with the various pressure/flow mods from WTO or wherever, and ended up going back to stock ... too much of one of them makes the HB unit chatter like it's got ABS :(

-- A
 
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so one line runs to the P/S pump were doers the other go to the box???my P/S pums has some xtra fittings in the back that are plugged right now with bolts can i use thoose holes???
 
twoslo4five0 said:
so one line runs to the P/S pump were doers the other go to the box???my P/S pums has some xtra fittings in the back that are plugged right now with bolts can i use thoose holes???
Click to expand...

One pressure line goes from the pump to the booster, and another from the booster to the box.

The booster also has a return line to the pump, as does the box. The pump should therefore have two return fittings, as my fuzzy pic shows... one on the side of the can, and another curved one on the back.

The bolts are holding the pump in and are not suitable for return lines.

-- A
 
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