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School me on rod ends/hiems

The Pumpkinator

1/2 ton status
Joined
Aug 14, 2010
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Location
Evanston WY
I plan on ordering some poly bushings and a high pivot rod end for a traction bar I want to build for my blazer after I get my 3/4 ton axles under it. The traction bar (obviously) needs to pivot up at the front shackle so it will twist easily with the rear axle.

I've been looking at some rod ends that Ruff Stuff Specialties offer and wondering how do they determine the size of the rod end, is the measurement listed based on the diameter of the ball, the diameter of the bolt that goes through the end (ball), or the threaded shaft?

Also I would like some thoughts on what material I should use to build the traction bar out of, I'm thinking 1.5" schedule 80 pipe or 0.25" wall 2" square tube.

So I need to pick out a rod end and the corresponding threaded pipe/square tube insert, any suggestions?:dunno:
 
I'm in the middle of gathering parts for a traction bar myself and I'm using a Ballistic Fab 3" flex joint at the forward end of the bar. The 3" joint allows for 34° of movement.

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/30-Ultra-Duty-BALLISTIC-Joint_p_1507.html

For the rest I'm getting parts from Kert at Diy4x. I bought some axle brackets and a crossmember so far. I've got to cut/turn my pinion for a CV driveshaft so I wont do anything on the bar itself until everything else is in position to get the length.
 
Oh, now that's interesting, I take it you cope out your material and weld it directly to the outer sleeve?

Also, what material are you going to use to create the ladder portion of the traction bar?
 
Yeah, cope and weld it. Both the crossmember and ladder bar are 1.75" tubing.
 
do you think if properly gusseted, 1.25" schedule 40 or 1.5" schedule 40 HREW would handle the rotational stress? If I remember right 1.5" schedule 40 measures to a 1 7/8" OD, I'm concerned about having enough parent material to get a even bead around the circumference of the pipe and the sleeve on the poly bushings and that cartridge joint you posted.
 
I don't know a whole lot about tube vs pipe but I would think that would be strong enough to handle the job.

I have read that, when used for bumpers and sliders, pipe will dent easier than DOM tubing. What about the possibility of the lower tube hitting or being drug across something? Will it crush/bend/warp?
 
I have read that, when used for bumpers and sliders, pipe will dent easier than DOM tubing. ?


That's funny as ive read a lot of pipe vs tube threads and heard the opposite...


IMO pipe would be plenty fine as a traction bar... I know people running 1.5" sch 40 black pipe as links and they have not killed anybody :whistle:
 
I could be wrong, it's just what I remember reading here years ago when it came out that a (now out of business for other reasons) vendor was using pipe instead of tubing.
 
I don't know a whole lot about tube vs pipe but I would think that would be strong enough to handle the job.

I have read that, when used for bumpers and sliders, pipe will dent easier than DOM tubing. What about the possibility of the lower tube hitting or being drug across something? Will it crush/bend/warp?

HREW may have a tendency to spit at the manufactured weld seam running the length of the pipe, hence why its not advisable to use in roll cages. My only concern was it bending under the rotational torque, its a little on the thin side 1.5" schedule 40 comes out to a touch over 1/8" wall.

That's funny as ive read a lot of pipe vs tube threads and heard the opposite...


IMO pipe would be plenty fine as a traction bar... I know people running 1.5" sch 40 black pipe as links and they have not killed anybody :whistle:

Damn, that's thin stuff for links, I guess by the time I add a 3/16" plate connecting the upper and lower tubes together it would be fine.
 
I could be wrong, it's just what I remember reading here years ago when it came out that a (now out of business for other reasons) vendor was using pipe instead of tubing.

Im sure it would depend on wall thickness etc.

I would have zero issue running pipe for a traction bar. Epecially if it is gusseted.
 
Damn, that's thin stuff for links, I guess by the time I add a 3/16" plate connecting the upper and lower tubes together it would be fine.



1.5" pipe is measured by the ID (as its purposes are for volume of gas and air etc). The OD is actually 1.9" IIRC of sch 40. So it is actually bigger and thicker than say 1.75" .120" wall tubing.
 
1.5" pipe is measured by the ID (as its purposes are for volume of gas and air etc). The OD is actually 1.9" IIRC of sch 40. So it is actually bigger and thicker than say 1.75" .120" wall tubing.

Just to make sure we're on the same page here, links as in say; a linked suspension, or a traction bar? :confused:

As for holding axles in place depending on vehicle weight and application, I would want something more stout than 0.15" thin wall in a 1.5" (ID) flavor.

However for a traction bar, I decided on 1.5" schedule 40 pipe that would be triangulated with 3/16" plate. Also with the true measurement of 1.9" OD I should be able to barely have enough room for a full weld around the pipe on that 2" wide collar for that cartridge joint. In the end, it shouldn't be absurdly heavy, and should be strong enough for some peace of mind.

I would like to point out that I have tendency to over build things, between my front/rear bumpers, and sliders, the thinnest material is 1/4". However I went a little overboard with 1/2" plate steel on the lower section in the front bumper :D
 
Yah I like to overbuild as well. I'm not saying I'm recommending pipe for links... The links I've made so far have been out of 2" .25 wall dom... Lol.

I'm just saying I know a guy that's got sch 40 1-1/2 as links (as in linked suspension) and has been driving it for 2 years and they seem fine... It's not a hardcore wheeler though. Or anything I'd recommend.
 
That's still crazy IMHO :eek1:



Ehh, I think people get too worked up about strengths of material on the interwebs...

A link is just holding an axle from moving front and back/side to side...

Unless you really slam into something, all they need to do is move up and down in a normal circumstance... I doubt you can put a bend in a piece of sch 40 pipe if your not beating the crap out of it....
 
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