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seafoam in the crankcase

84CUCV

3/4 ton status
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i was told by a friends to put it in just before a oil change. put a few hundred miles on it and change it. why tho? i would think u would want it in fresh oil. so witch is it.

as always thanks for the help.
 
i dont even like it in there that long. it will thin out the oil some and is supposed to knock out some of the "sludge" and build up in the crankcase. Toss 1/3-1/2 a can in there and run it 50-100 miles and change the oil.
 
I run it typically for 150 miles, never more than 200 miles. Helps loosen all the gunk up in there. The stuff that came out of the Blazer after I Seafoam'd the oil looked as black as the devil's blood.

Reason you don't want it in new oil is because it thins the oil out a good bit.
 
I let the vacuum system suck it in when the engine is good and warm. Let it kill it, wait 5-10 min. and restart it. It's like a fog machine, but there is a noticeable improvement in idle quality.
 
I let the vacuum system suck it in when the engine is good and warm. Let it kill it, wait 5-10 min. and restart it. It's like a fog machine, but there is a noticeable difference in idle quality.
that wont clean out the crank case. theres a few different ways to use it. getting 2 bottles of it is the way to go, one totally through the brake booster and let it die, 1/2 of the other in the crankcase and other half in the gas tank.
 
that wont clean out the crank case. theres a few different ways to use it. getting 2 bottles of it is the way to go, one totally through the brake booster and let it die, 1/2 of the other in the crankcase and other half in the gas tank.

Exactly how I've done it, and never anything but positive results. Don't know about the effectiveness of 1/2 a can in the gas, though. Think that's more of a feel-good thing.
 
SEAFOAM? I've never heard of it.

It's one of those "mystery fix-all" products that actually works pretty well. You can run it in the gas tank to clean the lines and injectors; run it through a vacuum line, shut the truck off for about a half hour to 45 minutes, then start it and flog the hell out of it - helps clean up carbon deposits in the top end of the engine, helps throttle response and idle; or you can run it in the crankcase like some guys do transmission fluid, to help thin the oil out and clean up sludge deposits.

I've done all of the above to my '99 Trans Am, a '99 Nissan Altima, and the Blazer. Trans Am has always been meticulously maintained, but it did improve the idle quality just a bit; the Altima...I won't even go into that :haha: (she had a couple 15,000 mile dino oil change intervals on her; the Blazer, got a lot of nasty stuff out of the crankcase, improved idle quality and throttle response a good bit.
 
would that stuff do any good in a 6.2?
Ive recently started driving one again and its been sittin for 5 years
 
It's one of those "mystery fix-all" products

not much of a mystery, really.. just some mineral oil mixed with very harsh solvents and alcohol. - just like everything else..

It's a short term fix for carbon build up, but that's about it.

they make some interesting claims on the label of their motor treatment product:

1) injector, carb , carbon cleaner - this is what it does best, and is accomplished by the solvents.. the problem is, you can dislodge some big chunks and cause other problems. repeated use might affect seals and gaskets.

2) fuel stabilizer - I call this clever marketing.. the solvents break up any gummy residue from when fuel sits too long, but the fuel isn't being stabilized.. ( same with stabil )for that, you need metal deactivators, ( which you can't find in additives you buy at wally world )to keep the copper and vanadium ( metals in the fuel ) from falling out of suspension.. that's where the gummies come from..

3) frees lifters / rings - accomplished by the solvents breaking up the carbon.

4) de icer / anti gel - works just like the truck stop kerosene additives. all your doing is thinning out the fuel..this does wonders for octane & cetane.

5) upper cylinder lube - nope.. the alcohol in the product will strip out the lubricity from the fuel, and the carrier oil will just turn to carbon upon combustion anyway.

6) dries oil and fuel - ok, same principle as drygas.. adding alcohol to disperse water..and drying the fuel doesn't help with lubricity.

if you're just after a quick de - carboning, have at it, though.. just saying it's nothing special.
 
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I am a firm believer in seafoam, i've never had anything but positive results from it. Of course its not a magic cure for alot of things. But do as everyone else has stated, and you will feel a difference in your motor.
 
A few years back a scored a real sweet deal on an 1gen eclipse turbo. The only problem with the car was a rough idle and bad hesitation during acceleration. I felt that the problem couldn't be anything serious so I bought the car at a steal of a price. I went online and searched the eclipse forums for a fix. Guess what.... Seafoam. Purchased a bottle and gave it a try. Just did the brake booster vacum line method. The car smoked like crazy for a bit and then the car started to run noticeably smoother. Took it for a spin and it ran perfect. Since then I've been a firm believer.

Jose Soriano
 
I tried it for the first time the other day. Made my idle run a lot smoother. It ran awesome for a few days, now my carb is idling at 2500 rpms :rolleyes:
 
worked well in my 98 and my 91 k5. seemed to smooth it out a bit. so far so good
 
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