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shops, pole buildings etc

I thought I had some pics of it in the background of what I was taking a pic of on the net, but can't seem to find them. I'll get you some pics of it this weekend so you can see for yourself.
 
Jeff-

That would be great to see some pics - I guess I didn't realize you could make a pole barn appear that way - I'm all over doing a pole barn over a stick built garage - that will be substantially cheaper!
 
Once you park a couple of vehicles inside a shop, and floor mount some stuff (bender, grinders, notchers, or, if rich, a lathe etc) I imagine a 30x36 would start filling up. I dunno, I won't go much bigger than that simply because I can't afford too... but I can see why people with coin build monster shops. :thumb:

I'd like to see pics of your dads too. No reason why normal siding can't be used on them... its wood framed, after all. Thats one reason why I'd like to go with a wood framed building... my dad has experience working on wood framed stuff, and wood working tools are always cheaper than metal ones.

As far as heat goes, I'd probably just pick up an old wood stove on craiglist. Pretty simple to cut holes in a wall to route the exhaust right? I assume they make some sort of sheet metal flanges just for that purpose... but what do I know! :grin:

One thing I definitely need to do before I make an offer on a house that I'd like to put a shop on, is call my county permit people just to make sure that I actually can build a pole building on the land I am looking at. Nuttin' would be more annoying that buying a house, moving in and only then realizing that you aren't allowed to build a shop for some weird zoning/ordinance reasons. :crazy: That would suck, hard.

j
 
One thing that I have been doing is going and looking at peoples shops at the size I wanted to build, then saying hmm I need bigger. 30x40 is big but when you fill it full of crap it gets allot smaller.

I think I'm doing a 30x50 min with carport sides. Probably going to build it myself frame it takes longer but is cheaper then the poles that I have been looking at. I am going to make the front of it vaulted and the back attic or build a loft for storage. Ten foot high walls on a 1 foot tall foundation to make them really 11 ft tall the the vaulted ceiling would give me enough room for a lift. Looking into a beam for the center and BCI for the roof. May have to do a ten foot or twelve foot door on one side as it will need space to support the center beam.
 
btw, anyone have floor plans showing how they laid their stuff out? yeah, i have a degree in design, but its ALWAYS wise to look at precedent before you do anything. :thumb:

j
 
just for reference, here is a pic of the yard on a property we are going to look at tomorow. Talk aboot potential!

side_yard_shoporama.jpg


its about 115 feet from the edge of the sidewalk (foreground) to the property line behind that shed in the distance. Oughta be enough room for a shop in there somewhere. :grin: Its nice and level too... not like I'd have to do much grading or anything. :thumb:

hopefully those nice houses behind this property don't mind lots of grinder / chop saw noise... :grin:

j
 
Jek-

As a student of architecture - you will find this interesting

http://www.fbibuildings.com/Pages/FBiPlanner.html

Also check out:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/

There are some high dollar zoot-suit garages in there - but that site is devoted to everything garage & shop related -I'm continually amazed at the museum-quality garages I see on there - although not really practical - there are working garages displayed as well...

As for checking about permits - very good idea - My wife and I came very close to buying a house outside Oregon City before we bought the current house - the house had a beautiful shop with it - the shop was non-permitted - and it had a metal culvert running under it - feeding into Clear Creek (which feeds into the Clackamas River) - and there was salmon spawning between the culvert & Clear Creek.

I found that out - and even though it probably wouldn't have come up in the purchase process - I had no desire to own that problem!
 
I agree with everything that Muddytazz said. Do a search for "metal building" or "engineered building" & see what you come up with.

I'd recommend a 6" slab all around, 'cause you can't add it later if you need it or want it. Also, I'd tell you to go with the tallest eave height you can. If you get a 20' eave, you can add a mezzanine for extra storage or an office, bathroom, etc. if you wanted to, later. A steeper roof is less like to leak or have problems with ice dams. Get as big a shop as you can responsibly afford as well. It will fill up.

I really like this website for estimating, but you have to remember that this quote is ONLY for the materials. The construction is still to be determined.

HTH,
Buddy
 
Go with a steel building. There are a million manufactures out there that you can surf their websites and look at pricing and features. Many of which you and a couple of friends would be able to erect yourself in several weekends. Go as big as you can afford initially and then you can add all the storage, lifts, even bathrooms and sinks later when you get more funds. As for the slab. I'd pour a 4" slab except where there is the remote possibility that you will put in a lift in the future then you pour 6" or 8" slab just in that one section of garage to save money. Also, run all your conduit, plumbing, etc in the slab so they are there when you decide to upgrade parts of the garage with bathrooms, sinks, electrical, etc. Like I said, get the biggest shell of a building the city and your funds will allow you to have and then upgrade the interior later.
 
BTT... made an offer on that house today. :grin: It would probably be a few years before I could afford to build a shop the size I want to build... but its all good, it has a good sized garage. Keep the tech comin'... that garage forum rocks btw! :grin:

j
 
Jekster,

I decided to build a shop out of a wooden frame for two reasons.

1. Steel buildings were high priced IMHO and felt that I could design and build something cheaper myself.

2. I already had a smaller building which used to be my great grandpa's milk barn years ago when they ran cattle, so I figured an add on would be best anyway.

Picture_008.jpg


Just finished the lighting and did a test, it works!
Picture_058.jpg


Here is the finished project. New shop area and remodeled milk barn extension to match new building. I built my own swinging barn doors mainly to save money. I would have liked a roll up with power, but it was going to be $3K or so and I built my barn doors for about a 5th of that.;)
100_0174.jpg
 
dude, nice work on the doors! I'm all aboot saving $... I might have to try something like that... :thinking:

j
 
hey i have a 50 by 40 pole barn with a dirt flor and 2 garage doors and its 1o ft high at the doors... its a great size becase u can have one bay with your project and have the other for everything else.... and i have put a long bench to divide the space so everything behind the benhc is storage and my tractor and all the lawn ****...
one thing that i see a problem is the roof its got this figerglass with a plastic on it and the birds love it bees and everything else stays right up at the top of the pole barn... and all that ends up on oyur truck and tools...:doah:

this came witht hte house and i dont think i would have built a pole barn this big but it fills up real quick... i can still get everything in and out without moving stuff but its on its way .. if you understand what im saying... i sitll have plenyt of space but if u were going to bed some tubing id have plenty of room because all id have to do is pull my dd out of the garage and i have a huge space to work in.....

just my .02 and good luck to you.... dont get ****ty doors or locks spend the money there
 
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