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Should I buy this Blazer?

Would you guys say there's any concern with going with a model above 1987 from a collector/ resale value situation? Like 1988 - 1991 before they changed over to that mid to late 90's body style?
 
dconway32 said:
Would you guys say there's any concern with going with a model above 1987 from a collector/ resale value situation? Like 1988 - 1991 before they changed over to that mid to late 90's body style?
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These trucks are gaining value no matter what year but you have to make sure you don't overpay or it will be a lifetime before you get back your money.
 
My taste is for the Round Eye Chevy’s.... specifically 73-79. 1980 is by itself. Not a yuge fan of pre 73’ blazers though thise years tend to generate more money, but also cost more money to get going on, I dont think that pre 73’ body style “fits” a Blazer but thats my taste.

Blazers are only getting more and more popular, not sure why but maybe something to do with overinflated Ferded Bronco and Cheby C10 prices....
 
20 grand is a big price for one of these. Even with the LS swap. Couple of red flags for me. They call out the trans as a th400. An 86 would have had a 700r4 od trans. So if they say it's a 3 speed it could be a th350 or th400. The th350 would require a kickdown cable hooked up to the throttle body which I can't see. The th400 would have an electric kickdown switch on the throttle pedal or firewall which I can't see in the pics either. No direct pic of the transmission pan to ID it either. Either trans is fine, but it does make one question what they were doing or if these guys even know and somebody else put it together.

Next flag is the a/c situation. The ad says both a/c and heat work. What I don't see is the compressor. Normally when you do an LS swap to one of these the a/c compressor in the stock LS location on the bottom pass side of the block you have to notch the hell out of the top of the passenger side frame rail to clear. Most use a bracket to relocate the compressor to the top passenger side to avoid chopping the frame. Again no clear pics of that either.

These kind of sales lots love to work the gas monkey style quick flip where it looks great on camera and get you sold and down the road. Personally I'd be very cautious with that one. See if you can get an impartial inspection at another shop so it can be looked over closely for any crappy work or questionable repairs.
 
Is there any concern from a collector/ resale perspective for buying something newer than 1987 model? Like the 88-91 models before they changed to that mid-late 90's body style?
 
dconway32 said:
Would you guys say there's any concern with going with a model above 1987 from a collector/ resale value situation? Like 1988 - 1991 before they changed over to that mid to late 90's body style?
Click to expand...

Me personally, I like the 88-91 due to TBI. And of course the 89-91 for the grill, side molding and single serpentine belt. 90-91 with rear wheel ABS (that didn't work too well), and second row shoulder seatbelts.
 
dconway32 said:
Would you guys say there's any concern with going with a model above 1987 from a collector/ resale value situation? Like 1988 - 1991 before they changed over to that mid to late 90's body style?
Click to expand...

Pre 73’ tend to fetch more money either buying or selling. 73-75 you have the square with full top removal, which adds a bit more value to them.

Mods, and many other factors including what market you're in will dictate that price/resale point coupled with whatever Barrett jackson does.hahahahahah
 
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Others out here in the Desert. Im just posting so you can get an idea of whats out there “at least in AZ” for quality and price.... for the 20k you considered spending you could get two blazers that are arguably in better shape and half the price.

The affordable
https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/d/willcox-1979-chevrolet-k5-blazer/7063661916.html

https://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/cto/d/phoenix-chevy-blazer-k5-4x4/7062623941.html

The ridiculous
https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/d/gilbert-1971-chevy-k5-blazer/7053898939.html
 
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I had a '71 CST just like that one only not quite as minty--paid $300 for it around 1986,when I got it home I found out it had a 3:08 rear axle and a 3:73 front axle..but it had the CST package and factory tach,so I wasn't too upset--even then that dash was worth what I paid for it..
It was a factory 4 speed with a 350,NP-205 too..another one I wish I'd kept..:doah:
 
Why is he selling it ? There was a post on this forum on what to look for see if you can find it and read it as it was a well thought process to do prior to purchase.
 
dconway32 said:
Is there any concern from a collector/ resale perspective for buying something newer than 1987 model? Like the 88-91 models before they changed to that mid-late 90's body style?
Click to expand...
I love the '87 and later squares. TBI just runs so much better than carbs. I have an '89 suburban, '90 K5 and '91 V3500. They all run great and I will not be going back to a carb. The late model trucks have a lot going for them.
 
Man that one in Dallas looks pretty sharp... might reach out to that listing...
 
ZooMad75 said:
20 grand is a big price for one of these. Even with the LS swap. Couple of red flags for me. They call out the trans as a th400. An 86 would have had a 700r4 od trans. So if they say it's a 3 speed it could be a th350 or th400. The th350 would require a kickdown cable hooked up to the throttle body which I can't see. The th400 would have an electric kickdown switch on the throttle pedal or firewall which I can't see in the pics either. No direct pic of the transmission pan to ID it either. Either trans is fine, but it does make one question what they were doing or if these guys even know and somebody else put it together.

Next flag is the a/c situation. The ad says both a/c and heat work. What I don't see is the compressor. Normally when you do an LS swap to one of these the a/c compressor in the stock LS location on the bottom pass side of the block you have to notch the hell out of the top of the passenger side frame rail to clear. Most use a bracket to relocate the compressor to the top passenger side to avoid chopping the frame. Again no clear pics of that either.

These kind of sales lots love to work the gas monkey style quick flip where it looks great on camera and get you sold and down the road. Personally I'd be very cautious with that one. See if you can get an impartial inspection at another shop so it can be looked over closely for any crappy work or questionable repairs.
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Yeah lots of weird things going on with this one. The gauge panel is from a diesel I believe. But the gauge cluster is from a gasser. If you look closely, you can see the AC compressor in one of the 1st underhood pics. It is in the factory location. If Tejas Steelworks motor mounts were used, the compressor can go back in the stock location with very little trimming done to the frame.

There is too much hack stuff for me to believe a $20k price tag. I have a hard time thinking $10k is right. The body work does appear to be pretty good. But I sure hope a different shop did that work than what was done elsewhere. At $20k how can you have a dented front and rear bumper? The tailgate trim piece is dented. The inside top of the tail gate has a dent or 2. In one of the close up pics of the tail gate, the paint looks rough right above the trim piece. The side mirrors are rusty. The dash looks hacked up. The paint on the gauge panel looks like something a high school kid did in his backyard, the passenger side dash still has the wood grain and a crack in it. The wiring under the hood doesn't look all that good either.

I mean to ask $20k and you can't even order up a pair of cheapo chrome side mirrors and a pair of bumpers from LMC? c'mon now
 
Over spray all over the place. The rear vent glass is missing. The window channels are toast. Carpet is different colors in rear, floor and wheel welds don't match. Chipped paint on top and front of doors. Dealer is nuts on that price. Ford starter motor relay for the fans. Center console has a bad paint job. Floor shifter on high mount makes it hard to reach transfer case shifter. Feel sorry for the fool that buys that hack job.
 
One of the main reasons I keep my Burb out of the dirt nowadays is the crazy way prices are going on them. It's just insane the prices of old cars/trucks/burbs are hitting now. That brings up a second point; when does the value of semi straight rust free blazer become so high it's just stupid to turn them into fun offroad vehicles that we'll just end up bashing up and then cutting up. It seems better to keep it clean sell it for a ton of dough and then get a shitty one and tear it up.
 
cuervo said:
One of the main reasons I keep my Burb out of the dirt nowadays is the crazy way prices are going on them. It's just insane the prices of old cars/trucks/burbs are hitting now. That brings up a second point; when does the value of semi straight rust free blazer become so high it's just stupid to turn them into fun offroad vehicles that we'll just end up bashing up and then cutting up. It seems better to keep it clean sell it for a ton of dough and then get a shitty one and tear it up.
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I am in California and plenty of supplies of clean trucks.
I have no problem doing anything with mine, I know some cringe but I do what I need to do.
I have sold some of mine before for little money and I have a couple more I might sell for a little more, but I can still find good deals here and will try to pass along with little profit
 
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