should I rebuild my 208?

[ashman]

for those of you that haven't been following my build thread, I just finished my engine swap and in the process changed the height and angle of my transfer case. This has highlighted a problem that has been brewing for awhile I think. My transfer case makes a lot of noise when not under power at 40mph +. It's a 208 behind an NV4500. I think my bad driveline angles have rattled the transfer case into the situation I'm in now. It also leaks.

So, I'm looking at rebuilding the 208 plus having a CV joint rear shaft made. Is there a cheaper way of doing this? A smarter way?

One wrinkle is that there is a JY nearby that has half off wednesdays so assuming they had one, I could pick up a transfer case for $50. What are the odds of getting a good JY case?

Someone mentioned a 241 in my build thread. Is there some great advantage to swapping to a PS drop 241? If so, will it bolt up to my NV4500 without an expensive adapter?

 

[blazinzuk]

208 and 241 share the same bolt pattern. You will need the correct input. I assume you would need the 32 spline input. Is your NV 4500 a dodge or chevy?

241 has a better low range and slightly stronger. It has the advantage of much aftermarket support.

 

[dyeager535]

Believe the 241 and 208 share the same dimensions where it counts...mounting, shifting, thickness.

241 is a better case generally (although by how much is questionable), I think *I'd* take the opportunity to "upgrade" if possible. Heck, I'm going from a 205 to 241.

Issue will be finding a 1989 241 that is cable drive speedo, unless you want to convert to the '90-91 241/speedometer cluster that doesn't use cable drive.

Then you can look at spending ~$400 to buy a SYE kit! But on the plus side, the SYE also gets you a bit longer driveshaft.

 

[ashman]

Believe the 241 and 208 share the same dimensions where it counts...mounting, shifting, thickness.

241 is a better case generally (although by how much is questionable), I think *I'd* take the opportunity to "upgrade" if possible. Heck, I'm going from a 205 to 241.

Issue will be finding a 1989 241 that is cable drive speedo, unless you want to convert to the '90-91 241/speedometer cluster that doesn't use cable drive.

Then you can look at spending ~$400 to buy a SYE kit! But on the plus side, the SYE also gets you a bit longer driveshaft.

I don't think I need to worry about a cable driven speedo. I'm currently using an aftermarket VSS to adapt my cable output to electric so maybe I just eliminate that and I'm good to go.

208 and 241 share the same bolt pattern. You will need the correct input. I assume you would need the 32 spline input. Is your NV 4500 a dodge or chevy?

my NV4500 is the early chevy version with the lower 1st gear. Any way of knowing if I'm getting the correct input from a new one?

 

[dyeager535]

IIRC the 241's from behind the 465 will allow you to bolt a 4500 up with no issue. They aren't THAT hard to find, but they are a bit more difficult than the 27 spline ones from behind the 700's.

It's what makes me still consider running a 4500 if I ever found a real deal on one. I'm trying to keep myself from taking on yet another project I'll never finish lol.

 

[ashman]

any chance I could swap the input shaft from the 208 into a 241?

 

[dyeager535]

I'm betting no.

 

[blazinzuk]

My local transmission supply could get the different inputs a couple years back. Might wanna check that

 

[ashman]

So, I went wandering the local junkyards today to see what I could find. I decided if I'm going to have to rebuild or replace I might as well go for a 241 instead.

I was striking out finding a passenger drop 241 until I find a 91 suburban and what should be sitting on the ground next to it, passenger drop 241c with a 32 spline input!

At first I think I struck gold but it was really caked with oil and someone had tried taking the output shaft housing off and failed. They managed to break off one of the tabs for the bolts.

This yard wanted more than I wanted to spend for a broken transfer case, but I decided that grabbing the input shaft was worth doing so I took it apart to get it.

I snagged the input shaft and chain but honestly the rest of the internals looked pristine to me. I think maybe this thing had been rebuilt recently. Is there anyway to really tell? I put everything in the back of the suburban to protect it from the weather. Should I go back and get the internals if I can for a reasonable price?

 

[dyeager535]

I don't know what parts run out your way, but I picked up two complete 241's for $100 each, one happened to have a 465/hydraulic clutch assembly/adapter attached to it.

I can't verify what condition they are in internally, however one was driving when I took the case out of it, and the other has the input I need, so either way I'm set.

Watch Craigslist for people parting out the Suburbans. Seem to still be a fair number of the 90-91's getting parted out. Additionally I've just found them all by themselves, people bought them for projects years ago, and change their minds. Also see people confusing 208's and 241's, so always pays to check both out if there are pics, or they say their '90 has a 208.

 

[Blue85]

honestly the rest of the internals looked pristine to me. I think maybe this thing had been rebuilt recently. Is there anyway to really tell?

As long as the case keeps oil in it and no water, the innards will look perfect almost forever until you break something. Remember that in 2WD you don't really even have gears running in there - it's pretty much a straight shot. The chain only turns in 4WD and the planetaries only turn in LO. The #1 sign of wear would be the pads on the shift forks. If those look great, then somebody must have replaced them. That blue silicone may be another clue - I thought they just came with a gasket from the factory. IMO, used factory bearings in good condition are better to run than new offshore bearings (even some major brands are building some of their parts in China).

 

[dyeager535]

IIRC from another post on here, that broken bolt tab is from someone not lining the pump up or whatever on reassembly.

Maybe that's why the truck is there...some sort of t-case issue initially, try to fix it themselves, broke the housing, figured it wasn't worth dumping more time/money into.

 

[ashman]

well, everything is working out well this morning. I just picked this up this morning:

Got it for $50. It has a 27 spline input so the input shaft I picked up yesterday will get put to good use too.