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should i sandblast it myself?

1300obo

1300obo

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i'm finishing up suspension and drivetrain on a 73 blazer and i need to get the tub off to the body shop soon(too much rot for a noob like me). the body shop owner wants it media blasted first and gave me a reference for a guy he uses but kind of implied that the guy gets "backed up" and i don't want this to turn into a six month thing. i really don't have that much left on the chassis. i've read up and know a little about the heat and warping issues. for cost reasons i'd prefer not to use soda. i would estimate it would take me about a weekend with my set up and probably a few hours with my neighbors
 
The body shop doing eifeys truck uses a ductless blasting the water stuff. The pickup didn't need it. He uses them to avoid the heat and warping issues. He said its a good idea to sand and prime afterward
 
70jimmy said:
The body shop doing eifeys truck uses a ductless blasting the water stuff. The pickup didn't need it. He uses them to avoid the heat and warping issues. He said its a good idea to sand and prime afterward
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thanks, i have heard the warping issues are more of a problem after around 1980 when they changed metals. you definitely need to prime soon afterwards around here as you can watch stuff rust before your eyes here on the coast. i was thinking of doing a test run on one of my rusted doors to see if it's going to be a problem before i lean into the whole tub but my thought is even if i warp a few areas, it'll probably be quicker, and money wise, cancel out since i'm saving the cost of what i would pay the media blaster
 
1300obo said:
thanks, i have heard the warping issues are more of a problem after around 1980 when they changed metals. you definitely need to prime soon afterwards around here as you can watch stuff rust before your eyes here on the coast. i was thinking of doing a test run on one of my rusted doors to see if it's going to be a problem before i lean into the whole tub but my thought is even if i warp a few areas, it'll probably be quicker, and money wise, cancel out since i'm saving the cost of what i would pay the media blaster
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your safe around structure.. door jambs, floors, body peaks, even the edges of major panels, etc... it's the large flat areas you have to watch, middle of the hood, doors, roof...
 
ryoken said:
your safe around structure.. door jambs, floors, body peaks, even the edges of major panels, etc... it's the large flat areas you have to watch, middle of the hood, doors, roof...
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thank you! i'm feeling better about it now. the doors are gonna be new anyway, so no problem there. i'll turn the psi down around the quarters and try not to work one spot too long. will post some pics when i'm done. appreciate the help
 
1300obo said:
thank you! i'm feeling better about it now. the doors are gonna be new anyway, so no problem there. i'll turn the psi down around the quarters and try not to work one spot too long. will post some pics when i'm done. appreciate the help
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generally the way I go about something like that is to hog all the big flat areas that are easy enough to get at with a DA and some 3M gold 60 grit, sh*t rips thru paint.. than I just leave all the difficult spots for the blaster, door jambs, floors, etc...
 
ryoken said:
generally the way I go about something like that is to hog all the big flat areas that are easy enough to get at with a DA and some 3M gold 60 grit, sh*t rips thru paint.. than I just leave all the difficult spots for the blaster, door jambs, floors, etc...
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even better, save me some time and i can do that pretty easy with my stuff and not have to take it to my neighbors. thanks again:bow:
 
1300obo said:
even better, save me some time and i can do that pretty easy with my stuff and not have to take it to my neighbors. thanks again:bow:
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yeah, i do that with everything.. even frames, rip all the flats, and save the blasting for the nooks and crannies...
 
In thinking about how to prep the interior of my burb, I have debated blasting vs sanding. I was looking at this tool from Eastwood’s. It has very good reviews and many attachments. Price does add up once you start getting all the different heads. I had a guy quote me to blast it and it was about the same price and a lot less time and work on my part. Most all recommend some form of prime within a week. The wet blasting is nice cause they can add a rust inhibitor along with the water.
https://www.eastwood.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=contour sct
 
ryoken said:
generally the way I go about something like that is to hog all the big flat areas that are easy enough to get at with a DA and some 3M gold 60 grit, sh*t rips thru paint.. than I just leave all the difficult spots for the blaster, door jambs, floors, etc...
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When I read the original post, this was my first thought. Then I saw ryoken chime in and I new it would be mentioned. But I do second this.
 
RyanMattke said:
In thinking about how to prep the interior of my burb, I have debated blasting vs sanding. I was looking at this tool from Eastwood’s. It has very good reviews and many attachments. Price does add up once you start getting all the different heads. I had a guy quote me to blast it and it was about the same price and a lot less time and work on my part. Most all recommend some form of prime within a week. The wet blasting is nice cause they can add a rust inhibitor along with the water.
https://www.eastwood.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=contour sct
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I dont think your dealing with rust (lucky!) so with your compressor you could buy the 100lb tractor supply pot and make short work of the old paint/ dirt as fast as you can move the thing back and forth but like @ryoken said a da sander on flat stuff is faster and safer on flat panels. What did he quote you to blast it?
 
1300obo said:
I dont think your dealing with rust (lucky!) so with your compressor you could buy the 100lb tractor supply pot and make short work of the old paint/ dirt as fast as you can move the thing back and forth but like @ryoken said a da sander on flat stuff is faster and safer on flat panels. What did he quote you to blast it?
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Probably true and I might end up going that route anyway. He quoted me $150 an hour and from pics he estimated 4.5 hours. That included him doing all the tape and plastic prep work.
 
RyanMattke said:
Probably true and I might end up going that route anyway. He quoted me $150 an hour and from pics he estimated 4.5 hours. That included him doing all the tape and plastic prep work.
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are you taking out the glass or is that price with glass in. also i'm guessing hes using soda or something else expensive and not sand so that price is getting better and better. it would be pretty miserable media blasting inside a closed vehicle. its bad enough when your outside with a good breeze.
 
1300obo said:
are you taking out the glass or is that price with glass in. also i'm guessing hes using soda or something else expensive and not sand so that price is getting better and better. it would be pretty miserable media blasting inside a closed vehicle. its bad enough when your outside with a good breeze.
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That’s with glass in. So it all gets covered with thick plastic sheeting and tape. He said he uses soda on interiors for easier clean up.
 
I should have it finished today and it really wasn't too time consuming, just tedious. Took alot longer than expected mainly because it's been a rainy spring but also went through a few nozzles, ran out of sand and finally blew through the hose where it leaves the tank. It took about $16 worth of sand so I figured I saved about $984 doing it myself :D

20210406_081002.jpg
 
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