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sm465 T O bearing?

mr250twostroke

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Does a hydro and mechanical clutch use a different t o bearing? I know the forks are different but... my Google Foo isn't working :[
 
Wish I could help more, but the AC number (CT24KVAL) search results certainly don't instill any confidence...it shows an interchange only back to 1982, but AFAIK, the clutch setup was the same from at least 1973-1984. If there was a difference, I would expect it to be due to the hydraulic or mechanical split.

Rockauto also doesn't show the AC part going back further. But...

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=164477&highlight=throwout :)
 
I don't have numbers in front of me but, iirc, i found there were 2 different bearings when I was gathering parts to convert to hydraulic.
 
Wish I could help more, but the AC number (CT24KVAL) search results certainly don't instill any confidence...it shows an interchange only back to 1982, but AFAIK, the clutch setup was the same from at least 1973-1984. If there was a difference, I would expect it to be due to the hydraulic or mechanical split.

Rockauto also doesn't show the AC part going back further. But...

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=164477&highlight=throwout :)

Thanks Dorian, good to see you back around. Yeah I checked rockauto too, had Shane (leadfoot067) check for me as well since he works for Strange Transmission. He shows the same part # but I get so much conflicting info searching myself that I want to be 100% before I shove all this stuff back in. My 1st go around was not successful :doah:
 
I don't have numbers in front of me but, iirc, i found there were 2 different bearings when I was gathering parts to convert to hydraulic.

And this is whats pissing me off, cant seem to get a definitive answer. this application was working with the mechanical clutch (I drove and pulled it), not working with the hydro conversion. Thanks for the input, i'll keep watching/searching/cursing and throw a beer or more into this quest for shifting...
 
napa shows 78 and 87 use same bearing.

Yeah got that too... later today I will break down EVERYTHING I have done between swaps and see what sort of troubleshooting takes place. Here in the PNW we're having perfect driveway weather (rig cant be pulled back in shop @ the moment) to finish this bastage and im sure some effed up rain is waiting for me...
 
I believe the bearing itself is the same throughout, it's the collar that touches the fork that's different.
 
I believe the bearing itself is the same throughout, it's the collar that touches the fork that's different.

Well I have both forks and the bearing seems to fit the same except... the bearing that came on the mechanical fork seems to pivot easier than on the hydro fork, almost like it catches slighty. Is that what you mean by the collar difference? Good god this really should be simple :dunno:
 
see now im over thinking this... if the bearing thickness is the same, the slight catching would be forced past that and still have the same throw? there aren't any signs on the hydro fork (galling, scratches yadayada) and it was moving enough visually when installed. I actually made a rod a 1/2" longer before I pulled it just in the event it wasn't moving enough. Gonna go play with the kids and get back to it in awhile. Keep the comments coming gentlemen...
 
If you want, I can check the '85+ GM parts catalog when I get home. But I found this GM part number elsewhere on CK5 (15613306) and it crosses with the above AC number, so I suspect it's what my manual will show, if not an even older number.

I hear you on parts frustration, one place lists '78+, another lists '82+, etc., when we know they aren't both. Accuracy doesn't seem to be a common theme in parts listings. Dad bought a clutch slave cylinder for an '85 truck, that was not one that would fit. I believe its STILL listed as a fit on rockauto.
 
They use the same bearing, I've run the same clutch kit on a mechanical and hydro set-up.

(after my recent install of a 93 NV4500, I can tell you it's the same throw out bearing for that too... Got to love lifetime clutch kits!)
 
For future reference, the GM Part number in 1988 was 15590168. The parts manual diagram calls the assembly "diaphragm spring type".

FWIW, 4 different clutch disks were used in 1985: 305, 350, 454, 6.2. Not broken down by type.
 
Thank you. This came off a 396 originally so I purchased a new flywheel for my 350 and sourced the hydro stuff. It had a new C F clutch and T O bearing which I installed but couldn't get it to fully disengage. New slave cylinder, bench bled and have full pedal. Not sure what went wrong now that I know my components are correct? I will re-install this weekend and see what happens...
 
I'm going off of very poor memory here, but I for some reason remember something about the clutch fork pivot ball being different...since those do wear if not lubed, any chance there is something up with that? Just throwing out ideas here, if you've got all the right parts, and they are assembled correctly, you are right, no clue why you'd be having this issue.

Clutch disk being in backwards is the only other potential reason I can think of that hasn't already been mentioned that could cause an issue, and yet something else I can't remember if it's even possible.
 
I'm going off of very poor memory here, but I for some reason remember something about the clutch fork pivot ball being different...since those do wear if not lubed, any chance there is something up with that? Just throwing out ideas here, if you've got all the right parts, and they are assembled correctly, you are right, no clue why you'd be having this issue.


Also check that the fork is not bent. They've been known to bend from fatigue, and since everythings out, it's easy to check.:waytogo:
 
Ran into this on my old Jeep years ago.
New clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing.
Put it all together, would not disengage enough to shift right.
It would not drive off, but 1st ground, and 2nd and 3ard would not engage because of the syncros.
I adjusted it through the inspection plate, no luck.
Pulled it down, replaced the fork and pivot ball.
Nothing.
Finally noticed that it was unusually hard to get the transmission shaft in.

Tried just the disk on the splines, they were too tight. It was a reman clutch disk, and it looked like the hub had been hot and warped slightly.
Replaced the disk, and it all worked fine.
 
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