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Small lifts and sway bar relocation brackets

tangouniform

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I’m doing a 3” lift on my ‘88 K5 and just by eye balling it, it looks like I’ll need brackets to relocate the sway bar off the frame. I’m talking about the brackets where the sway bar attaches to the frame, below the radiator. It looks like Rough Country and BDS make brackets, but those say for 4-6” lifts.

So my question is, has anyone that’s done a smaller lift (2-3”) retained the sway bar and used relocation brackets? I know everyone will tell me to ditch the sway bar, but I’m not going to do that. This truck will never go off road, and I’ve pulled the sway bar on other cars and didn’t like the body roll that came with it.
 
Off road design sway bar disconnect kit :waytogo:.

You don't need to relocate at the frame mounts. Just add a pivot/extension at the bushing end
 
I’m doing a 3” lift on my ‘88 K5 and just by eye balling it, it looks like I’ll need brackets to relocate the sway bar off the frame. I’m talking about the brackets where the sway bar attaches to the frame, below the radiator. It looks like Rough Country and BDS make brackets, but those say for 4-6” lifts.

So my question is, has anyone that’s done a smaller lift (2-3”) retained the sway bar and used relocation brackets? I know everyone will tell me to ditch the sway bar, but I’m not going to do that. This truck will never go off road, and I’ve pulled the sway bar on other cars and didn’t like the body roll that came with it.
I did the TC 2” fronts with ORD quick disconnect works perfect

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Skyjacker and Superlift both used to offer a couple of sized drop brackets.
 
disconnect link kit from ord .

if your not in a hurry i have a set coming off soon from my work truck i am dropping back to stock height .

My goal is to have it all put together this week. I'm guessing that's too soon?
 
Agreed. Lift springs are often a little longer than stock, so the sway bar already doesn't fit right. No matter where you drop the frame brackets to, a solid bar won't track with the varying spring arch through much range of motion. The disconnect kit adds the extra degree of freedom that removes the binding.
 
I’m doing a 3” lift on my ‘88 K5 and just by eye balling it, it looks like I’ll need brackets to relocate the sway bar off the frame. I’m talking about the brackets where the sway bar attaches to the frame, below the radiator. It looks like Rough Country and BDS make brackets, but those say for 4-6” lifts.

So my question is, has anyone that’s done a smaller lift (2-3”) retained the sway bar and used relocation brackets? I know everyone will tell me to ditch the sway bar, but I’m not going to do that. This truck will never go off road, and I’ve pulled the sway bar on other cars and didn’t like the body roll that came with it.
I know you don't want to ditch the sway bar but while your truck is apart try it without. You can just tie up the sway bar out of the way and go for a drive. Its not the same as taking it off a car. If you don't like it order parts and hook it back up. There is a reason most of us don't bother with the bar, these stiff leaf sprung trucks just don't need it.
 
I know you don't want to ditch the sway bar but while your truck is apart try it without. You can just tie up the sway bar out of the way and go for a drive. Its not the same as taking it off a car. If you don't like it order parts and hook it back up. There is a reason most of us don't bother with the bar, these stiff leaf sprung trucks just don't need it.
I was going to say the same thing. I had ORD disconnects on my 89 k5 when it just had a 4" lift (tuff country ez rides in front) After a wheeling trip, I drove it 45 minutes home (highway driving) with the bar disconnected and didn't notice any difference. A few weeks later, I took them off and sold them.
 
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