CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

snow driving, tires, lockers etc

big_truxx

1/2 ton status
Joined
Oct 8, 2004
Posts
2,272
Reaction score
0
Location
Canaan, Maine
couple ?? about snow driving. do lockers help or hinder? and how low can you go w/o loosing a bead on yer tires in snow?
 
lockers can help and can not help, depending on the situation. In slippery slow, lockers can make you go side ways, possibly off trail. BUT they also make both wheels spin, maybe your truck more capable of driving.
Losing your bead in the snow depends on the tire. Some tires can go as low as 3 PSI before they lose the bead.. others need way more PSI to stay on.
 
I am spooled up front and rear. Lockers rock in the snow. You wont get very far being open. As for tire beads, starter fluid and a BBQ lighter when you break a bead and cant seat the bead conventionally. I like to run 4lbs in the snow, depends on what kind of tire you have though they are all different. A 35" BFG will start working around 8-12 lbs on a K5.
 
They may have to go to 3 or 4 #'s to even start working good. Swampers (especially Boggers and SX's) have such a stiff sidewall they have to really low. A good snow tire in 35" is a General Grabber MT, they have a 2 ply sidewall that flex really well at higher PSI.
 
spoolnaround said:
They may have to go to 3 or 4 #'s to even start working good. Swampers (especially Boggers and SX's) have such a stiff sidewall they have to really low. A good snow tire in 35" is a General Grabber MT, they have a 2 ply sidewall that flex really well at higher PSI.
im not partial top swampers but i did like the width on my 81.... 15" i do like more floatation... what are some other good tires for flexing? and do at do better than mt?
 
AT's dont work as well in the snow in my experience. BFG's MT work good 3 ply side wall and a buddy runs 38" Ground Hawgs and likes them, MTR's seem to do good as well. The best tire I think I have seen working in the snow is a Dick Cepek Fun Country's, But that is on a Toyota and those things are so light they float on top pretty good.
 
tire info for snow

the softer the compound the better. and the more groves or open voids the better. if you realy want those TSLs then get a tire hot knife and take the center triangles and cut them so there is now 3 blocks insteed of 1 . did this on my TSLs and wow lots more traction. if you have seen the rock crawlers with there TSLs cut , then that exact pattern helps in the snow also. i run 38x12.50x16.5 TSLs and thay are on a 6500 lbs truck with locker lifted 6" and3" with locker in 14ff . in the snow around town had to have 4x4 in to go any were in a stight line on the street. but lots of fun if you like to let it all hang out.:cool1:
 
sweetk30 said:
the softer the compound the better. and the more groves or open voids the better. if you realy want those TSLs then get a tire hot knife and take the center triangles and cut them so there is now 3 blocks insteed of 1 . did this on my TSLs and wow lots more traction. if you have seen the rock crawlers with there TSLs cut , then that exact pattern helps in the snow also. i run 38x12.50x16.5 TSLs and thay are on a 6500 lbs truck with locker lifted 6" and3" with locker in 14ff . in the snow around town had to have 4x4 in to go any were in a stight line on the street. but lots of fun if you like to let it all hang out.:cool1:
Good point. I havent gotten to the point of buying a groover yet. My wife has a fit about all the tools I have right now.
One of the guys in my club did his tires and said it was like night and day in the amount of traction you get.
 
grover info

if you have a good buddy in the tire biss he can get you 1 for around 50-65 dollers. i am in the biss and got mine for about 55 last year or so. i have found that with my 38s the 1/8" round bit that comes with them new works great for the grove to tread block size. for the wider and bigger TSLs go with a 1/4 "bit. and for you guys with 1/2 worn TSLs and others thay are great for cutting out those werebars, and making them like new !!!!! just dont go more than about 1/8" past the bottem of the tread or you could possibley hit cords . hope this info help you guys. p.s. you can get round blades and square blades what ever you prefer. and it takes about 1/2 hour per tire on my 38s to cut just the center blocks, and the shoulders will be throbing if your not up to snuff. let the heat do the work!!!!:cool1: :saweet: :waytogo:
 
Re Lockers in the snow: IMHO they are the only way to go. I hate open diffs in the snow.

I have lived in snow country all my life. All my turcks have ben locked or as least posi. They work great on road or off. I guess some people dont like them because they take a little getting used to. They handle different than an open diff.But Once you go locked you wont want to go back.
I run my MTs around 8-10 lbs in the snow. My sidewalls are pretty flexy and I get around good off road at that psi and dont have to worry about poping a bead.
 
sweetk30 said:
if you have a good buddy in the tire biss he can get you 1 for around 50-65 dollers. i am in the biss and got mine for about 55 last year or so. i have found that with my 38s the 1/8" round bit that comes with them new works great for the grove to tread block size. for the wider and bigger TSLs go with a 1/4 "bit. and for you guys with 1/2 worn TSLs and others thay are great for cutting out those werebars, and making them like new !!!!! just dont go more than about 1/8" past the bottem of the tread or you could possibley hit cords . hope this info help you guys. p.s. you can get round blades and square blades what ever you prefer. and it takes about 1/2 hour per tire on my 38s to cut just the center blocks, and the shoulders will be throbing if your not up to snuff. let the heat do the work!!!!:cool1: :saweet: :waytogo:
I guess I need to go see my father in law and look through his vender books (he has a tire shop:woot: )
 
store info

try loomis and root , or myers tire supply in my area 2 big boys.:cool1: or any race car speed shop might cost more there tho.:crazy: p.s. my knife is the 250watt unit with pistle grip handle:grin: :D
 
sunds good!! when i get my next k5 i will have to put spools in both ends :grin: that and the d44 8lug thats under my 84 and get a 14bff. plus a 6" lift and some 35's :grin: :waytogo:
 
How low you can go depends on rim and tire as well as planned usage (are you just traversing through snow, or do you plan to "wheel" while aired down and going over stumps, rocks, etc). As for being locked. Good and Bad. Nothing beats being locked while travelling a straight line. I went from open front and rear to having a Eaton Posi in the rear of my K10 and it has made a world of difference especially while plowing. It hasn't changed the on-road driving that much (just can't punch it going around corners). My K20 is locked front and rear (lock-rites) and it's alot of fun in the snow (not too many places I can't go), but I cannot drive on the street in 4WD. If there are places where it's dry, I get a ton of driveline bind while cornering, and if it's snowy/icy, then the front end just wants to push straight and cornering completely sucks (worse steering than with an open front and rear). For a trail only rig I would lock it front and rear, for a rig that will see slippery "on road" conditions, I would lock the rear and keep the front open (or a very loose posi unit).

Also keep in mind when both wheels spin (as happens with a locker), it can get you into trouble on hills and slopes (especially while traversing perpendicular with the slope). One of the main reasons why ARB's are nice (selectablility).
 
big_truxx said:
sunds good!! when i get my next k5 i will have to put spools in both ends :grin: that and the d44 8lug thats under my 84 and get a 14bff. plus a 6" lift and some 35's :grin: :waytogo:
I dont totally recomend the spool in the front. As soon as funds permit I am going to get a selectable locker for it.
 
Top Bottom