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some final review on my process before i start

metalneverdies

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Ok. I have read the procedures on body work and paint threads. However, when your going in to all that work as a first timer attempting to do a really good job its a bit overwealming and I keep mixing up steps. So, just to verify and so I can get all the things requried before i start.

I need to first take an DA sand the fenders with 80 grit paper down to the metal. Take some short hair filler to the dents on the fender, then a few passes with some creme filler for pin holes. let it dry, then sand down with 36 / 60 grit and check for low / high spots.

Then I will give it a light coat of zinc chromate ( going to have to order online. no one even knows what it is out here). Do i shoot this over the patch work aswell or only the bare steel? :dunno:

Then I wait an hour for it to dry. Scuff it with a marron 3m pad. Shoot some 2k filler primer over it. I sand the 2k with 180-220 grit sand paper to prep for paint. Then i shoot my 2 part paint onto the fenders and after a few days hardeing do a final wet sand for any orange peel.

Does this all sound correct? I would greatly appricate feed back on my couple of questions on the process.

sorry for beating a dead horse, but i dont have it in me to re-read through another 100 pages of the body work thread to try and find my answer
 
mostly....

most dents can just be filled with a standard filler..

zinc chromate is only for bare metal, but it's fine if you get some on the filler...

definitely not 180 to 220 for paint.. that's what you sand glazing putty with, than you reprime... 320 to 400 for most paints.....
 
Ok thanks.

What regular filler would you suggest?

What is the best way to thin out 2k paint? I have gotten various answers from various parts store guys
 
any of the standard med to light fillers like Rage, Evercoat, etc...

i don't understand the second question, there's 2k primer, but I've never heard of 2k paint..
 
any of the standard med to light fillers like Rage, Evercoat, etc...

i don't understand the second question, there's 2k primer, but I've never heard of 2k paint..

:doah: that's my bad. I guess I assumed all 2 part paint was called 2k. I had viscosity issues with my primer and paint last time I painted. I followed the mix directions exactly. Then the next batch I increased the reducer and it still was a little thick. How do I properly thin the paint out?

Thank you for all your help
 
well, you need to at least do a poorman's viscosity test with a paint stick... if it stops dripping in 4 or 5 seconds, it's thin... 7, 8, 9, thick...


most paint and products call for 10 to 20% reduction...
 
ryoken - How does zinc chromate green hold up to the filer. Is one better for preventing rust?
 
ryoken - How does zinc chromate green hold up to the filer. Is one better for preventing rust?


i'm not sure exactly what your asking... hold up to filler?


preventing rust is a function of a proper coating system that seals in and protects raw metal from moisture... zinc chromate is a good start to a good coating system....
 
i'm not sure exactly what your asking... hold up to filler?


preventing rust is a function of a proper coating system that seals in and protects raw metal from moisture... zinc chromate is a good start to a good coating system....


If I understand correctly fiberglass filler and body filler can not be put down on Zinc chromate. How well does the fiberglass filer and body filler protect from rust compared to zinc chromate?
 
If I understand correctly fiberglass filler and body filler can not be put down on Zinc chromate. How well does the fiberglass filer and body filler protect from rust compared to zinc chromate?

Filler is only to fix t he dents and what not. The zinc is a self etching primer. It is used because it provides a good base layer for the prime and paint to stick to.

Rust proofing is from a good paint covering. Not filler.
 
Filler is only to fix t he dents and what not. The zinc is a self etching primer. It is used because it provides a good base layer for the prime and paint to stick to.

Rust proofing is from a good paint covering. Not filler.


be still my little heart.... :haha:
 
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