Someone please explain what a shackle flip is....

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by mrprex, Apr 15, 2000.

  1. mrprex

    mrprex Registered Member

    Apr 6, 2000
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    Seattle, WA
    All right. Now I know what a shackle flip is from all reading I have done on this site but I am not sure what all the advantages are. I would like to do one. Ok, so does it raise the whole vehicle 4" or just the back? I am pretty ignorant when it comes to matters of suspension. I think the last 4x4 I had was beack in high school and that was a '47 willys CJ2A. I didn't even finish rewiring the thing before I ran out of money. Any detailed explanationn about the advanatages and any disadvantages of the shackle flip would be greatly appreiciated. Thanks in advance. Oh Corey, I read your column on the website. That's when I first started getting interested.
  2. titanic

    titanic 1/2 ton status

    Mar 27, 2000
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    north alabama(huntsville)
    The shackle flip gives you a 4" lift in the rear only. The Pro's -this will give you increased articulation of the rear axle. Con's- May have to use shim to correct pinion angle and some say this might reduce your extreme max. payload you can carry-wouldn't want to tow a 10K trailer after doing this
  3. Corey-88K5

    Corey-88K5 1/2 ton status

    Feb 17, 2000
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    Home: Michigan, Stationed: Hill AFB (Home of Moab.
    The Other \"FREE\" shackle Flip

    After doing my shackle flip, I had a few things that I'd like to restress at this time. I did not get a true 4" from the flip. I'm thinking more along the lines of 3". I had SEVERE (I can't stress this enough) driveline issues. The pinion was turned up so far as I couldn't drive the truck over 5mph with out being beat to death. The only options were: Pinion shims, (a max of 3-4 deg is available) cut & reweld the spring perches on axle tube, and a combo of CV shaft & pinion shims or rewelding the perches. I chose the latter w/a 3deg. shim (most expensive also).

    When you are getting ready to do this, (using the stock hangers) you need to becareful of a lot of things. Using a torch near a gas tank is not safe by ANY means, nor would I suggest that it be done. If you want, there is a very simple way and cost effective way to complete the same idea:

    * Go to your local junk yard, find a 80's style GM Pickup. This truck has to be 2wd, 1/2 ton chassis. Remove the front, rear spring hangers. What I'm talking about is the Front hanger for the rear springs. These are already setup in the style of the compression setup. (A shackle flip changes your rear set up from Tension to Compression.
    **<font color=red> The next few items are pretty important, if you want the truck to sit level</font color=red>**
    ** Make sure all tires are same size & same airpressure!
    ** Find a 100%, absolutely perfectly flat area of pavement
    ** Support the front of you truck with the front at rideheight, but perfectly level!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    ** Measure the distance the rearend raises before the reartires leave the ground - (spring extention)
    * You need to support the rear of your Blazer / Pickup, but cannot use the chassis as a support. You need to use a floor jack and support your truck on either the CENTER of the bumper, or better yet, on the trailerhitch. This is completed so the rear axle is sitting level with the chassis. You can not be sure if you are using jackstands. Most of that "made in China stuff is CRAP"
    * Next, you need to remove the rear spring hangers off your truck.
    * Allow the axle to drop with the springs still attached.
    * Attach the stock 2wd hanger to the shackle and raise the rear end of the truck to a height that is level ,<font color=red>PLUS THE DISTANCE THE REAREND RAISED OFF THE GROUND OR IT WILL SAG THAT DISTANCE</font color=red>, and make sure the truck is not sitting lop-sided.
    * Mark and drill the location of the holes in the chassis and the 2wd hanger. You should beable to use existing holes in the hanger. The 2wd hanger is shaped in a "Y", the holes won't match up in the chassis. Insert the bolts and bolt the hanger on the rest of the way. 4 bolts on each side should be enough.
    * If you feel that you need more strength than you may want to get some extra 1/4" thick steel from a mill and bend it at a 90deg. angle. One side as wide as the bottom of the chassis, and the other side as long as the hanger is hanging down below the chassis. You may also want to "truss" this.
    * Make sure your truck is sitting the way you want it, lower the truck and recheck all your figures.
    * Keep in mind, if you are raising your truck, you need to do the front first. If not, who knows where your rearend will end up.
    * Next will be driveline issues. You can drop you T-case (for what ever reason somebody will raise their truck just to drop the case is beyond me...) Solve the problem, don't "fix" it. I opted to use a CV Shaft & pinion shim (1/2 fix...). With a new rearend I'm installing I'm going to be making perches like Depdog's and tilting the pinion 2deg below inline with the driveshaft. Once again, solving the problem, not fixing it. You should also replace your brakelines with longer ones. I opted to go with stainless steel braided lines. The articulation is massive compared to aftermarket springs or lift blocks. Throw in greasable bolts & teflon pads in your springs...

    Well, I hope this will give you guys something else to consider. I had opted to go this way, but was having a hard time finding level pavement in my area that I could work on my truck for a weekend.

    Best of luck, contact me if you need any other help.


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