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Stand alone harness help

Magikal

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Hoping someone will help me with this issue. Simple actually, but having never done a injection swap the learning curve has been very high! Ok, I had team208 rework my L29 harness to be standalone. There are a handful of wire left but no definitive instructions, just labeled. Hoping someone can point me in the right direction rather then assuming. I just want to connect everything correctly. And, yes, I sent a couple different emails to team208 and have gotten no response so I thought I would ask on here

Wires are as follows:

12v ignition ---(connect to switched power/fusebox)??

Fan---- (connect to switch side of fan relay (as a power or ground))??

Alternator (small wire) ---- (sense wire to control output so connect to power distribution center)??

Fuel pump.----- (Connect to fuel pump relay switch side (again as power or ground))?

Brake switch---- (connect to brake light switch, powered when pedal is depressed??)

Check engine ----(connect to check engine light as a ground or power?)

Speedometer ----(???)
 

sweetk30

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12 volt ign = key hot AND crank hot .

fan = most newer computers switch the ground . best check with them . use a relay rated for 10amp or so more than the fan draws just to be safe.

alt = ? I cant say my self.

fuel pump should be same as fan answer .

brake switch = its for auto trans unlock convertor function . best to ask what requirement is needed 12v or neg. ?

check engine = should be ground side trigger . best to check .

speedo = output to feed a speedo like a aftermarket . or if you ask around some might have hooked to stock 90-91 electric dash gauges .

if you @Team208Motorsports like this with the @ directly in front of there name it lets them know you want them to see this thread . he is a busy guy but does respond here .
 

Magikal

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12 volt ign = key hot AND crank hot .

fan = most newer computers switch the ground . best check with them . use a relay rated for 10amp or so more than the fan draws just to be safe.

alt = ? I cant say my self.

fuel pump should be same as fan answer .

brake switch = its for auto trans unlock convertor function . best to ask what requirement is needed 12v or neg. ?

check engine = should be ground side trigger . best to check .

speedo = output to feed a speedo like a aftermarket . or if you ask around some might have hooked to stock 90-91 electric dash gauges .

if you @Team208Motorsports like this with the @ directly in front of there name it lets them know you want them to see this thread . he is a busy guy but does respond here .


Thanx for the tip about the @ sign. Learning fact of the day for me.
 

bigblock72

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Hoping someone will help me with this issue. Simple actually, but having never done a injection swap the learning curve has been very high! Ok, I had team208 rework my L29 harness to be standalone. There are a handful of wire left but no definitive instructions, just labeled. Hoping someone can point me in the right direction rather then assuming. I just want to connect everything correctly. And, yes, I sent a couple different emails to team208 and have gotten no response so I thought I would ask on here

Wires are as follows:

12v ignition ---(connect to switched power/fusebox)??

Fan---- (connect to switch side of fan relay (as a power or ground))??

Alternator (small wire) ---- (sense wire to control output so connect to power distribution center)??

Fuel pump.----- (Connect to fuel pump relay switch side (again as power or ground))?

Brake switch---- (connect to brake light switch, powered when pedal is depressed??)

Check engine ----(connect to check engine light as a ground or power?)

Speedometer ----(???)

Team208 is busy a lot so I'll try and fill in. I'll include wire colors for the wires I think you're after, if yours are different let me know so I can be accurate.


12v ignition (pink) will be a switched source that is hot in start and run

Fan (dk blue) will be ground side

Alternator (brown??) will connect to alternator connector to turn alternator on

Fuel pump (dk green /white) this will provide 12v to turn relay on (opposite of fan)

Brake switch (purple) connect to cruise control style brake switch with normally closed contacts (open when brake is depressed)

Check engine (brown/white) will provide ground for bulb

Speedometer (green) speed signal to digital speedometer
 

Magikal

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Team208 is busy a lot so I'll try and fill in. I'll include wire colors for the wires I think you're after, if yours are different let me know so I can be accurate.




12v ignition (pink) will be a switched source that is hot in start and run

Fan (dk blue) will be ground side

Alternator (brown??) will connect to alternator connector to turn alternator on

Fuel pump (dk green /white) this will provide 12v to turn relay on (opposite of fan)

Brake switch (purple) connect to cruise control style brake switch with normally closed contacts (open when brake is depressed)

Check engine (brown/white) will provide ground for bulb

Speedometer (green) speed signal to digital speedometer


Thank you very much. Not concerned about the colors as the wires are labeled well. Couple questions though.

Alternator wire: why is this wire separated if it goes to the connector that's already in the harness? Is this the same as an exciter wire?

Brake switch wire: I have no cruiser style brakes, just an old school brake pedal switch. Can I just leave it unhooked to bypass?

Things should work fine without speedometer wire hooked up, yes?
 

bigblock72

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Thank you very much. Not concerned about the colors as the wires are labeled well. Couple questions though. I included wire colors to verify what circuits are being dealt with, sometimes there are multiple circuits that do similar things that are wired differently, brake switch inputs and vss outputs can be this way. In this case I don't know what year the donor is so I guessed '99-00, the earlier years are a little bit different.

Alternator wire: why is this wire separated if it goes to the connector that's already in the harness? Is this the same as an exciter wire? yes

Brake switch wire: I have no cruiser style brakes, just an old school brake pedal switch. Can I just leave it unhooked to bypass? The brake switch is only needed if the computer is controlling a transmission

Things should work fine without speedometer wire hooked up, yes? correct
 

Magikal

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Donor harness and engine and tranny all from 1997 c3500. 7.4l/4l80e

Yes, tranny controlled by the computer
 

Magikal

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Okay I went home at lunch and check the color of the wires the 12 volt wire is Pink the alternator wire is dark brown the speedometer wire is green and white the fan wire is red fuel where is green with a white stripe the check engine wire is dark brown and the brake switch wire is purple
 

bigblock72

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Okay I went home at lunch and check the color of the wires the 12 volt wire is Pink the alternator wire is dark brown the speedometer wire is green and white the fan wire is red fuel where is green with a white stripe the check engine wire is dark brown and the brake switch wire is purple


Perfect, everything I posted should be accurate.

You will need a brake light switch for the torque converter clutch to function properly. I usually use a SL186 (NAPA #) switch as it has 2 sets of contacts and goes in place of most older GM single contact switches and the brake light plug still works with it.
 

Team208Motorsports

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Hoping someone will help me with this issue. Simple actually, but having never done a injection swap the learning curve has been very high! Ok, I had team208 rework my L29 harness to be standalone. There are a handful of wire left but no definitive instructions, just labeled. Hoping someone can point me in the right direction rather then assuming. I just want to connect everything correctly. And, yes, I sent a couple different emails to team208 and have gotten no response so I thought I would ask on here

Wires are as follows:

12v ignition ---(connect to switched power/fusebox)??
Switched power thats hot when cranking

Fan---- (connect to switch side of fan relay (as a power or ground))??
This is power for the fan from a relay

Alternator (small wire) ---- (sense wire to control output so connect to power distribution center)??
I need to have you verify this one for me. Put up a picture of the wire and the connector at the alt. I need to see if its a CS130 that needs resistance to excite properly.

Fuel pump.----- (Connect to fuel pump relay switch side (again as power or ground))?
Power from a relay

Brake switch---- (connect to brake light switch, powered when pedal is depressed??)
This is opposite. 12v when off the brake and 0v when on. Its for the converter lockup

Check engine ----(connect to check engine light as a ground or power?)
This is a ground for the bulb, other side of bulb gets keyed power

Speedometer ----(???)
This is VSS pulse for a speedo
 

Magikal

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Picture of the alternator connector and picture of the loose bundled wire. Alternator connector only has one wire going to it

20170314_163532.jpg

20170314_154359.jpg
 

Team208Motorsports

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Yup, that would need a bulb or resistor to operate. Thats why its still singled out. Its either an incandescent bulb with that wire on one side and switched on the other or a resistor in place of the bulb.
 

Magikal

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Like an in dash "alternator" light? You say "switched on the other side", please clarify. And thank all you guys for your patience with this.
 

Team208Motorsports

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Yes, its a simple charge bulb that illuminates when there is a problem with the alt. Switched ignition/12v
 

Magikal

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Yes, its a simple charge bulb that illuminates when there is a problem with the alt. Switched ignition/12v

Got it! I think I have things under control now. I actually got the new brake pedal switch purchased and installed this evening, fuel wire connected, check engine light installed and wired.....

Thanx for the assistance. I will hit you up if I have any more questions!! Thanx again all!!
 

Magikal

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Dually noted. Don't see what more could give me issues at this point as far as the engine harness is concerned. Just gotta get radiator installed, power steering lines ran, ad fluids, double check everything, double check again, and hopefully be ready to start it up.
 
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