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Sticky hood latch fix...I think

AJMBLAZER

AJMBLAZER

Better to be lucky than good.
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Dunno if anyone has done this but I think I fixed my hood latch today. It did the typical not popping up when released thing. You'd have to whack it at the center front to get it to pop up from the closed position. Got looking at the cable and realized what was happening was similar to the problem Ford Rangers have with the throttle cable.
It stretches and over time you loose the ability to hit WOT simply due to the fact that matting the gas pedal doesn't pull the throttle all the way open at the engine.
Expensive and PITA fix is a new cable.
Easy fix is a couple small zip ties wrapped between the end of the cable "ball" and the mount.
Worked great on the Ranger and I figured it couldn't hurt.

Sure enough it pops up every time now. We'll see if it's fully corrected but not bad for a few pennies.
 
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OMG!!! DON'T DO THAT!!

Thats a safety measure. They do that to ensure that you are standing there when the hood opens, to control the mighty spring force that might cause the hood to fly up, rip the safety catch loose, and smash the windshield.........

Yeah, Right...:D

Actually, it should work OK. I only see two possible problems.
First, that hood latch cable sees a lot more pull than a throttle cable unless you are the lead-foot from hell. So I don't know how long the fix will last.

Secondly, when one of my hood latch cables stretches to the point it does not want to work, I replace it.

I DO NOT want that darn thing to break at a bad time.
Like when I still own it.

J.
 
Eh, I've always heard the hood latch cables were a PITA to replace. Yes or no?
 
Mine was doing that several years ago, I think I adjusted the hood a little better.

My cable is missing the little ball at the end, the PO installed one of those little clamps with a set screw. I don't know if they did it because the ball came off, or because it was stretched like yours. Who knows. They also wired the horn to a doorbell button on the dash.
 
To be honest, I don't know. The one on my Ford truck was fairly easy, and the one on my car, I let the factory guy do it for just that reason.

However, many years ago, I had to replace the safety switch on the side of my C6 transmission.
A couple of friends said the switch was not problem, but it had a long electrical cable built in to it that plugged in under the hood, and getting that cable snaked back up there was a bad job.

I reached under the hood next to the firewall, unplugged the old wire harness, tied a piece of cord to it, pulled it down, tied the cord to the new harness and pulled it back up.
No problem.

By using a piece of flexible wire or thin cord, and taping the connection so it is smooth and a little pointed, you might be able to do the same thing.

Or just reroute it more directly. Heck, just mount the lever in the center of the dash under the radio, and go straight from there to the hood latch......

J.
 
Glad to see I'm not the only one with that problem. I just have to lube the hell out of it every once in a while with pb blaster.
 
Fix

I've posted this before but it's way easier then you think.

The latch portion (on the lower part not on hood) needs to be pushed toward the engine just enough to make it move. Maybe 1mm or so but not much. That will fix it. I've done this to over 50 chevy's and it always works unless something is truly broken (rare unless dmg caused)

What happens is the hood weighs so much over time it weakens and causes it to move due to stress. I fixed mine over 3yrs ago and still works perfect.

Try it before you knock it cause literally it's always worked unless someone has tried adjusting things.
 
and another.......

To add to Mountain_man's idea........

Also, roll the catch pin in the hood - There is most defintely a flat spot on the top side of it (which you cant see) which holds the catch hook. When you knock the hood "down" the hook then clears the corner of the flat spot and releases ..... lol

Gonna try the adjustment idea (again) tomorrow I guess.....:doah:



Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
 
Try mine I'm pretty sure it'll work for ya. Also takes about 15 sec (depending on how long to open your hood) don't loosen anything just minor bend toward the engine bay and bang. fixed
 
Also, roll the catch pin in the hood - There is most defintely a flat spot on the top side of it (which you cant see) which holds the catch hook. When you knock the hood "down" the hook then clears the corner of the flat spot and releases ..... lol

Troy B
Ft Hood, TX[/quote]

This is how I fixed mine.
 
I have hacksawed a slit in a 1/4" nut and used them to take up excess slack in cables like these before,and on lawn mowers..just open the slit up wide enough with a screwdriver ,put it over the cable,and pinch it shut again with pliers..I have used those "barrel bolts" or throttle stop things too,when the ball busts off the end of the cables,or I needed a shorter cable and all I had was one too long..
 
Years ago I used some lead fishing weights to take uip the difference in length. Ultimately I still had the problem and it was from the flat spot on the pin in the hood.:wink1:
 
Just went outside and popped the hood.....

I never noticed the bracket that mounts the catch was leaning forward. I bent it to straight vertical and works like a champ now.

I can only assume because the hook is now squared off with the catch in the hood, theres no hanging now :dunno:

Either way - Done deal - Thx for the tip, Mountain_man



Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
 
no prob. They all do it due to heavy hood and the bumpers at each side of hood wear out or get turned down. add in the bare spot from use and moving it a little will solve things. glad it worked for you too.
 
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