Ok so i have a Turbo 350 Auto Tranny, Late 70's Early 80's Chevy 350, HEI Dizzy Quardjet 750cfm 4brl Carb in a 1981 Short Wheel Base Blazer 4x4. Stock Tcase. The hole problem started with the timing going out and a bad starter. When this happen i used the downtime to installed a 4" suspension lift kit. I only have the front drive shaft in right now as im waiting for my new driveshaft from the local shop. So no rear driveshaft right now. I replaced the HEI dizzy and the starter (starter NAPA rebuilder) plugs, plug wires. before i changed the starter i had it timed and running. it ran fine and changed gears no problem with just the one driveshaft. I drove it up and down my road a few times with no problem. Say 5km total. after i installed the starter (the next day) i rechecked the the timing with my timing light its still at 8deg right now ( unpulled the vac advance line timed it to 8deg and plugged the vac advance back in). It started after 2 pumps as normal and ideled fine. I changed gears and Stall. Tryed a few more times and stall. I let the truck warm up and still a stall. I checked all the fluids and they are fine. If i put the Tcase in N and changed gears it dont stall. once i go to 2h, 4h or 4l on the tcase and change it stalls. I can keep it running if i rev it right up and changed gears and then i can drive but if i let off the gas it stalls. I checked the idel and put it up way over what it should and still a stall. I have to rev it really high to keep it going. But in park it idels fine. im not sure how to check my transmission vacume line from the dome but i did replace all the vacume lines on the carb today and still it stalls when i put load on the motor by going into gear. anything i should check or a way i can check the trasmission vacline?
CK5
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Still no idle when put in gear?
- Thread starter looloozu
- Start date
90v1500
Registered Member
The vacume line to the trans only controls the shift points, so that's not it. I would lean twords something from the ignition system. Check your coil first, and your ignition module. The module can be checked at your local parts store...
Hope this helps...
Hope this helps...
as i will admit im a novice at this. could it be the way i have it timed? the motor seems to idle fine and rev nice in N no bogging but there is no load on it. would u sya check my timing again ( getting the motor to TDC and doing that all again)
bbck5on37s
1/2 ton status
check the torque converter also
bbck5on37s
1/2 ton status
i am not for sure but there may be a lock up on the converter
I have an '89 with a "rebuilt" 700r4 in it and the guy that had it before me says they put a "heavy-duty" torque converter in it. I have the same problem of stalling out when idling in gear. I think I am going to try to put a new torque converter on it this week and see what that does. I'm with you, I've tried everything. I've even taken it to the dealership for a diagnosis and they can't tell me the problem. I'm out of ideas, but the TC seems logical because maybe it can't make the evolutions it needs to keep running at idle. It also dies if i let off the gas and coast for a few seconds. That is what led me to believe this may be the problem. Let me know if you have any luck and I'll do the same.
bbck5on37s said:
2X sounds like it's locked up.
lock up TH350??...
I know they did have TH350's with lock up converters in the 80's (my 81 G10 van has one)..but I wasn't aware GM used them in 4x4's,I didn't think they did..
If your does have a lock up torque converter,it uses either a vacuum operated switch or an electrical solenoid setup to engauge it..if it stays in the locked position ,the motor will stall just like a manual tranny truck will if you didn't push the clutch in as you come to a stop..
A long shot would be you wounded the fusible links at the starter somehow while putting in your new starter--maybe they are only letting a bare minimum of current get to the rest of the truck,and there isn't enough amperage available to fire the plugs under load,etc..
One truck I worked on that had this problem had a bad rotor in the distributor,it would only run in neutral or park,would die as soon as you put it in gear..trucks that had an idle stop solenoid will stall at idle if the solenoid croaks or loses power--it sets the idle speed,without it working,the throttle butterflies will close completely,suffocating the engine..
I know they did have TH350's with lock up converters in the 80's (my 81 G10 van has one)..but I wasn't aware GM used them in 4x4's,I didn't think they did..
If your does have a lock up torque converter,it uses either a vacuum operated switch or an electrical solenoid setup to engauge it..if it stays in the locked position ,the motor will stall just like a manual tranny truck will if you didn't push the clutch in as you come to a stop..
A long shot would be you wounded the fusible links at the starter somehow while putting in your new starter--maybe they are only letting a bare minimum of current get to the rest of the truck,and there isn't enough amperage available to fire the plugs under load,etc..
One truck I worked on that had this problem had a bad rotor in the distributor,it would only run in neutral or park,would die as soon as you put it in gear..trucks that had an idle stop solenoid will stall at idle if the solenoid croaks or loses power--it sets the idle speed,without it working,the throttle butterflies will close completely,suffocating the engine..
lochenjons
1/2 ton status
My buddies k5 did kinda the same thing but I'm not really sure (I wasnt there..didnt even know him then lol) but he said his friend took out the distributor and put it back in again and it worked fine. Dunno how that fixed the problem but it worth a try I guess if you've tried everything else
VikingWarlord
1/2 ton status
I am having the same problems. Well worse in reverse. It'll die often forward or reverse. But if I feather the pedal. Forward works alomost ok :P
that dinda shoots the whole torque converter idea. I might try a fuel sending unit and fuel filter
