My recently acquired 93 S-10 is in need of some attention. I know the tie rod ends are in need of replacing, but I am hesitant on replacing the idler arm and pitman arm. Are the bushings replaceable in these arms?
I have run these little S10s for many years now and if I had to change one component on the front end to make it drive better it would be the idler arm. I have 170K on my '93 and it still has most of the original tie rod ends. I replaced the pitman awhile back (130K--maybe??), it was still pretty tight, but I figured why not. So, I have a couple replacement tie rod ends, a replacement pitman arm and I am probably on my thrid or fourth idler arm. The arm is servicable as an assmebly only--no bits and/or pieces. Check the pitman, but do the idler. When you do it, the holes in the frame are slotted a bit for vertical adjustment, just center the frame bracket on the idler so the bolts are about in the center of the slots. If you go all up or all down, strange steering characteristics can result. Also check the lower ball joints. I go through about 2 or 3 sets of LBJs to one set of uppers.
Also, who has changed out the oil lines to the filter on the 4.3? Looks like I might have to drop the front diff a little to get to the lines entering the block.
I have done these several times and have used a couple different methods. It CAN be done with a regular 13mm combination wrench, but that method sucks wet ass. A method I figured out about 10 yrs ago (and have used since) is to drop the skid plate under the radiator. Get a real long extension (about 18"). Put a 13mm swivel socket on the end of it and go from front to back down the oil pan rail to get the bolt that holds the lines to the adapter. The bolt seems to tighten over time, so plan to put some serious mo on it to get it turning. There is a support on the lines under the p/s pump. Once you get the lines out do the o-ring that seals the adapter to the block--if it is not leaking, it will be soon. The adapter has an o-ring and a gasket. The gasket should stick to the block and not the adapter. If it is not damaged, I do not replace it. If it is damaged it must be replaced. Prepare for evil scraping to get that little bastard out--sucks baaaaad.
After I did this job the first time (with the 13mm combination wrench) I had a customer come into my store and he was telling me how GM engineers suck and he had to pull the motor to do the seals on the adapter. I explained that it was not necessary. He insisted that it was necessary, got pissed and never came back. What a putz.
Anyways, that should get you going.
