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Strange oil pressure issue - urgent

Brut-Ute

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*This is a lot to read, I know, but it's best if I give you the full story

A few days ago I loaded my '89 Suburban (V2500, 350 motor, 52k miles) to the brim with furniture and was also pulling a trailer. The drive was from Tucson to San Diego, which is roughly 420 miles. I had recently removed my Edelbrock sequential EFI system (it was 5-7 years old and failed) and replaced it and the intake manifold with a good 'ole fashioned carburetor from Summit racing.

This being said, I was highly excited to see how the carburetor would compare to the EFI system on the trip with the trailer, as I have made this drive many times. 150-200 miles in or so, I'm going roughly 75 mph and the thing feels great. This is when I ran into my first issue. As I was driving, i felt the sensation that one feels when running out of gas. I was certain I wasn't out of gas, so I was a bit confused. After surveying all of the gauges, I noticed my oil pressure gauge was bouncing off of 0 and only going up to maybe 5-7.

I pull over, turn off the truck, wait a few minutes, start it back up and my oil pressure was at 15. I continue down the 8 west only to be pulled over a few miles ahead due to the same issue, right before a long hill climb. I called AAA, and when the arrived and distracted the traffic for me I popped the hood and checked everything out.

I noticed there was oil all over the intake manifold just pooled up in certain places. It was clear that the valve cover gasket had been hemorrhaging oil. This being said, I pulled the driver side and passenger side PCV and made sure they were clear. One of them was clogged solid and I cleared it. Got back on the road, and made it up and over dome valley and dropped down into Yuma. When pulling into Yuma where I normally stop to get gas, I get to the top of the exit, and I can feel the idle dropping very low and wanting to die. (My carburetor needs a tune, its running slightly lean so I figured it was just the carb) I fed it some gas as the light turned green, pulled into the intersection, and the suburban died right there in the middle of the intersection. It would crank, and crank, and crank but would not start. Oil pressure was at 0 according the gauge. I sat in the middle of the busy intersection for about 5 minutes with my trailer not knowing what to do, and alas, it started up.

Oil pressure was at 15 as I pulled into the gas station. I filled up, called some mechanically inclined friends and family, waited about an hour, tinkered with the carb, and got back on the road. I made it out of Yuma and into El centro (roughly 20-30 miles) before the problem started happening again. At this point, it was around 70 degrees outside and the sun had gone down. Oil pressure dropped to 0, and the truck sputtered out. I would pull over, wait 5-10 minutes, start it back up and go a few more miles before it would happen again.
I made it all the way past Imperial Highway (roughly another 20-30 miles) before I began the largest grade I had to climb before reaching San Diego. I made it about 5 miles up the grade, and the truck died again. This time it seemed worse than the others. It wouldn't start even 15 minutes later. I called AAA and was towed the remaining 80 miles home.

Here I am today, I fired up the suburban, oil pressure sat at exactly 30 while it idled in park (which is about 1300 rpm, like i said, carb needs tune), when i put it in park it sits at about 20, and after 1-2 miles of driving at idle at a stop sign it is at 0, and while driving it is about at 15. I have not tried to reproduce the problem on the highway or larger streets because I really don't want to be stranded again and have to call AAA. They dont like my suburban.

Please let me know what you guys think, how I can troubleshoot it, first steps to take, etc.

Oh, and, I do NOT have a fram oil filter.
 
Also, it should be noted that the fuel pump and assembly has been replaced with OE from the dealership only a few months ago. This truck is rigorously maintained and the 52k miles are all original although the head has been rebuilt twice. Other modifications include (Just incase it matters):

-Edelbrock cams
-Edelbrock headers
-straight piped exhaust (no cat)
-Summit Carb / intake manifold
 
Low on oil, plugged up pick up screen.

I have cleaned top ends of a couple of engines, cleaning out the crap in the valvetrain area, only to have it drop down in the pan area, I then had to drop the pan to remove all the crap because it plugged up the screen area.
 
^^^^agreed, sounds like an oil supply problem, and a focked engine with as much as you have run it low on oil, the engine will not start if it has no oil pressure so cranking and cranking does no good...you should have oil pressure in just a couple seconds, then it should start, running low and no oil pressure is not good, especially working the engine hard.
 
Let me mention that when I pulled over the first time I was only half a quart low. After I cleared the PCV valves it seemed to not leak anymore. And for the rest of the trip after I stopped for gas in Yuma it stayed at 5 quarts.

I will probably pull the pan in a few days and see what kind of gunk is blocking the screen. Thanks for the ideas. Hopefully you guys are right!
 
Are you still running the electric fuel pump then? Are you regulating the pressure? If you have 0 oil pressure the stock oil pressure sending unit will cut off the power supply to the fuel pump.
 
Yes I'm running the OE fuel pump but I also installed a regulator when I put the carb in.
 
So how is the fuel pump being run? Just off the oil pressure switch?

I don't think that's your *issue*, but a symptom. Oil pressure switch closes at 4PSI (so pump starts working once oil pressure reaches that point), if your pressure drops below that, you will run out of fuel, if my assumption on how yours is run, is correct.

You COULD run a wire from the batt + to the single red wire hanging off the fuel pump relay to bypass the switch, but there is every indication in my mind that you have an oil pressure problem, and letting the engine continue to get fuel in that situation is a bad idea.

There is apparently a misunderstanding about the oil pressure switch. GM *NEVER* used it as a fuel cutoff, it is a backup to the fuel pump relay in case it dies. With EFI you'd know the relay was dead based on longer crank times. With a float bowl (carb) it will start without the pump running, and has enough fuel to keep running until the pump starts working based on engine oil pressure.
 
Yep. Still speculation at this point, but since the engine is dying, oil pressure is *showing* 0 or low, and OP swapped a previous TBI then Edelbrock EFI motor truck to carb with stock fuel pump, I'm *guessing* the oil pressure switch was used to keep the pump working, since no mention was made of how that was accomplished.

If this is one of the 3 wire oil pressure switch/sending units, the OP could not be so lucky, as I'd immediately check to see if my pressure was low, or the switch/sending unit had failed. But I can't recall when the trucks went to the three wire unit.

If it's the one wire oil pressure sender for the gauge, and separate two wire switch for the fuel pump, then I am more inclined to believe the problem is an actual oil pressure problem, as the switch and sender would verify what the other was doing/seeing in a low pressure situation. But I again, that is all assuming the oil pressure switch is how the fuel pump is getting power, and it wasn't re-wired.

Edit: thought of this, this morning. If it was high pressure before, the pump must be different, but would be odd to run off solely the oil pressure switch with EFI, starting would suck. OP is going to have to tell us how the fuel pump is powered.
 
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Well, after pulling off the oil pan and clearing the pickup screen like 4xcrazy recommended, I thought I had fixed the problem. It was running much smoother and I cleared a **** load of gunk off of the screen.

Unfortunately, when I got home it was pissing out oil. I thought I had incorrectly installed the gasket for the pan, but it turns out to be an entirely different problem.

It turns out my flex plate is cracked :eek1: and the rear main seal needs replacing. Its only leaking oil while the motor is running, which is causing the pressure drop. No news about exactly where its leaking until I have the means to pull out the behemoth T400.

Thanks for the tips though everyone.
 
Only way leaking oil can cause a pressure drop is if it's from one of the pressurized ports in the block (rear main isn't pressurized), or if you are losing so much oil it's getting hotter than normal, and/or the pump is running dry. You said previously that oil level was staying the same, is that not true?
 
In all this time you never mad a single mention of checking your oil which is the very first thing I would have done if I seen a zero reading on my gauge and found oil spewed all over under the hood. :rolleyes:
 
"Let me mention that when I pulled over the first time I was only half a quart low. After I cleared the PCV valves it seemed to not leak anymore. And for the rest of the trip after I stopped for gas in Yuma it stayed at 5 quarts."

I had to check for that too...not losing oil, and oil pressure is dropping, the pressure problem isn't a main seal leak, at least thats my thought process.
 
Are you absolutely sure it's not a sending unit problem? The '05 Avalanche here had a bad sending unit that would drop to zero PSI when I got on the throttle hard to accelerate, weird that the engine never shut down, if they supposedly read the oil pressure as a safety as many people think... the dashboard bell did ring when this happened though... But after replacing that sending unit, it reads oil pressure like normal and haven't had any problems with readings since.
 
Just depends how it's wired. STOCK (it's an '89) the oil pressure switch will not kill the motor. This of course assumes it's working properly/as designed. But in this case, the truck was originally factory TBI, then Edelbrock EFI, and finally converted to carb, so I have no idea how it's wired.

Since the stock fuel pump is still being used, *IF* the wiring for it was not modified, then at this point the only thing powering the pump is the oil pressure switch. The oil pressure switch was not and is not designed as a safety switch from GM, but it IS a backup for fuel pump relay failure. Which means that it would in actuality act as a fuel pump kill switch if oil pressure dropped below 4PSI when the ECM was disconnected, since the ECM is what switches the fuel pump relay.

In this case, it *could* be the oil pressure switch, but since we don't know how it is wired, it's just speculation at this point.
 
Thank you everyone for the ideas. A couple of things I found after finally getting my trans out yesterday.

- My flex plate was cracked in a few places
- The rear main seal was fine

So it turns out I had 2 different problems on my hands. I went ahead and replaced the sending unit for the hell of it as I believe it was still original, and pulled the pan down again just to confirm everything was properly installed. I found that the gasket had a small flaw in it, where I accidentally left a small washer / spacer on the pan at one of the corners that I must have missed the first time. I've got the pan and every thing back on now, so all I'm waiting on is a new flex plate and ill have the trans back in and ill let you guys know how she's running.

Thank you Dyeager535 and 4xcrazy for the information and ideas. Most definitely a big help!! :bow:
 
Well, after getting everything buttoned up properly, the Burban is running great. No oil leaks, no pressure issues at all. All is well again!!:woot:
 
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