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Stupid stripped hub bolts!

garlicbreath

garlicbreath

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:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:
How in the world to you get TWO stripped socket head bolts out of a Superwinch D60 hub? Oh, and they also have those STUPID A$$ non-working broken off screw extractors that are made of kryptonite stuck in them. Can I salvage this hub or take my portaband to it and bite the cost of a new pair of hubs?
 
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garlicbreath said:
:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:
How in the world to you get TWO stripped socket head bolts out of a milemarker D60 hub? Oh, and they also have those STUPID A$$ non-working broken off screw extractors that are made of kryptonite stuck in them. Can I salvage this hub or take my portaband to it and bite the cost of a new pair of hubs?
Click to expand...

I'm thinking if you can get the cover off -- maybe Dremel or baby die-grinder the heads off, and remove other bolts ... then heat, and maybe vise-grips?

Or are the tops broken off flush with the body?

-- A
 
If you've broken off screw extracters in there you'll need to get them spark eroded out unless there's only a little bit in there in which case, sometimes, you can break them out a bit at a time.
 
When I break off an easy out, I take an air die grinder with a solid carbide burr and grind it out. If you don't have these items, they will cost you more than a new hub, so the porta band might be your best option.
Jimbo
 
I have a die grinder and should be able to order a carbide burr through work. Which one do you use?
Also, the bolts are not standard allen head's with a flat shank, they are a long tapered seat type. Where could I get new ones?
 
Put some diesel on the threads as best you can. I did that to get a lug off my truck. Its a good redneck trick, works well on getting grease off your hands too
 
I was gonna suggest a small round burr, about the size of the head of the bolt, for your grinder till you said taper shank. Sounds like your best bet is to porta band it off, and then replace it with a Warn type hub. If you watch ebay, they come up in singles and sell cheap--I guess most people need a pair. You might also post up a wanted ad, someone's bound to have a spare for sale.
Jimbo
 
I had a set of the superwinch hubs with those tapered allen heads. First time I took them off it was just one that was stripped so I drilled it out. the second time I wanted to take them off to swap onto another diff, none of them came out so I just left them and fixed my Spicer hub. The allen bolts bond themselves to the body of the hub never to come off again. I really liked the superwinch hubs, but will never buy them again because of that problem. I say cut it off and buy new ones.
 
ive got warm hubs and never had a problem:D

i agree with what was said above bout getting them out.
 
garlicbreath said:
:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:
How in the world to you get TWO stripped socket head bolts out of a milemarker D60 hub? Oh, and they also have those STUPID A$$ non-working broken off screw extractors that are made of kryptonite stuck in them. Can I salvage this hub or take my portaband to it and bite the cost of a new pair of hubs?
Click to expand...
Been there done that with Superwinch . I ended up having to ruin a hub to get it off .

I run Warn exclusively now , much better screws that take a larger allen wrench .

As for saving it , if you can , go to the hardware store when you are done and get a screw with the same threads and bigger head . I found some and made the remaining Superwinch a spare .
 
I'm running the SW hubs only because they were on the D60 when I bought it. When I upgrade the axles, warns will go on. I bought new allen head screws straight from SW...the guy who installed my gears lost two, so when he ordered replacements I got a few extra when I saw they were a weird design.
 
OK, I got them out finally. After a farmer friend of mine told me how his dad used to get bolts out. Used my mig to spitz balls of weld on the ends then welded a nut on. One backed right out, the other broke off where I previously drilled it out. Lukily it broke off far enough off inside to let me get the hub off.

DSC00024 (Medium).JPG
 
Jeebus -- I've done that on like 3/8" bolts ... but on those little tiny things, that's a TRICK! :bow:

-- A
 
They were a real PITA.
Seems like the steel of the screw, the tapered part, was stuck to the hub. Once I got the hub off, the rest of the bolt that broke off just unscrewed by hand.
I liked these hubs too, real low profile, and never had any problems. When I was trying to drill them out though, the bit wandered into the aluminum and put a hole in them. So if I wan to re-use this one I have to get it welded. They don't look too strong from the inside anyways.
 
It's called galvanic corrosion. It's caused when you have contact between two dissimilar metals, most notably aluminum and steel.

Whenever you get it back together, clean it up real good and then anti-sneeze the hell out of it.
Sometimes I'll even spooge some RTV into the screw wells to seal out crap. The next time you need to get it apart again, the RTV pops right out.
 
Well, superwinch doesn't sell ANY parts except the tapered screws, so it looks like I am in the market for a new set of hubs.:mad:
All I need the aluminum outer case of the hub, everything else works great.
 
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