CK5
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Support beams under the axles?

Nope. They never made those for a d60, there's not enough space inside the knuckle for the u-bolt.

You might be able to make the rear one work on a 14 bolt but it'll depend on if the end brackets will accept bigger u-bolts.

I'll probably shell out the money and get the ones that weld to the axles. Or ones that are bolt ons.
 
I have a Confer truss on my K5's 44 and also had one on my CJ's front axle. I believe that they work, at least some piece of mind.

On my CJ7, I would jump it pretty regularly on some dirt roads and broke two housings. When I went to buy a housing the next time, the Jeep place gave me a Confer truss and I never broke a housing again.

On my K5, I broke a freshly built(like 2 days old) D60 housing and couldn't afford another housing at that time so I built a 44 and added a truss and again never had an issue since.

I think there is a reason, that all the old school guys ran them. They work. Not as strong as all the welded in fabricated stuff but for the average guy that just wants to add a bit of piece of mind, well worth it.
 
The under the axle truss is called a tension truss. Only as strong as the connection at the ends in this case since that is the weakest link.

The theory is good, the execution in this case not so much. The only added strength this will give the axle is in a case like landing a jump where the force from the body/frame/engine/etc is going down and the force from the tires is going up. The truss will carry part of the load (limited by the size of the connection bolt).
 
I've been contemplating building a truss for mine. But also wondered how effective one of these would be. But with welded connections...

For dune use.
 
I've been contemplating building a truss for mine. But also wondered how effective one of these would be. But with welded connections...

For dune use.

Then the weld will be your weak link if it only welds at the end. How much weld bead can you get in that small area?
 
Then the weld will be your weak link if it only welds at the end. How much weld bead can you get in that small area?

I would make something to weld to the lower part of the c and wrap around it..
 
Those are suppose to follow the same principal as why trailer axles have a positive bend to them unloaded and flatten out when loaded. Same thing with a big rig flat bed thats made for serious weight. They always have a positive bow in them unloaded.


Honestly though its oldschool tech. Just truss the axle up on top as standard now.
 
Honestly though its oldschool tech. Just truss the axle up on top as standard now.



Or truss the bottom and get the most benefit...


Idk if you have seen my rear shock mounts on the axle, Im not really a "clearance" seeking guy :whistle:
 
Does anybody offer a front over the top truss for a leaf sprung truck?
 
Does anybody offer a front over the top truss for a leaf sprung truck?



Id like to try my hand at both types, lower and upper :popcorn:


Ive already done d44 and 14sf for linked rigs. (and have them on file to be cut again)
 
Link trusses are easy, it's the leaf springs that get tricky.
 
Now that I'm on a fullsize keyboard I'll give my .02

Under the axle trusses are really good for strength and really suck for ground clearance. I worked on a desert race rig that simply had a 5/8" cable ran under the front axle from C to C with something under the dif to keep it positioned. It wasn't exactly tight but that axle was never bent.

Trusses over the top of the axle provide mounting points, and pretty good bending strength but not as good as an under the axle truss. These are more popular for a few reasons; 1- clearance, 2 easy mounting point integration, 3 pretty decent strength.

There are many versions of the old school bolt on under axle trusses and none of them are really all that great at being anything but a hang up. Properly installed below the axle trusses are way strong if you can afford the lost clearance.
 
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