swapping out the rear sheet metal

[Agent_Orange]

quick question.... would a pick up bed be a potential candidate for new rear panels and rear floor in a 73 K5? are the spacings around the wheel wells similar? I'm imagining a simple removal of the front of the box and weld to just behind the door frame would work. Am i way off here and just go to LMC for proper sheet metal. yeah you guessed it.... i'm pinching pennies. let me know your thoughts.

 

[496truck]

Personally, I'd much rather start with new metal. With that said, I'm a cheap prick too.

I suppose your most important measurement will be from wheel opening to the very rear of the panel. I almost think the K5 is shorter in that section than a short bed truck but can't say for sure.

The other issue is the tail pan or tailgate hinge panel. I don't think the trucks have the same plate underneath for the tailgate to bolt to.

 

[rick88blaze]

I've had really good luck with www.classicindustries.com. Plus they were a lot cheaper then LMC. My orders showed up in just a few days.

 

[tRustyK5]

There are some issues using a long box bedside as donor material for a K5...but most are easy to overcome. The biggest benefit in my opinion is the use of OEM thickness steel, and a factory stamping.

This is my modest, low budget repair/build thread on a '90 Blazer.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=263098

The rust repair probably starts midway through the thread, and there are lots of pics. I used bedsides from a '77 long bed to repair my K5 bedsides, with good results in my opinion (again)

If you have them, use them...just know going into it that it's not 100% cut and swap. The distance from the wheelhouse to bumper is a ton shorter on a K5. You will have to piece stuff here and there.

 

[Agent_Orange]

tRusty... that is exactly what i was picturing in my head, with just a little bit more of the box used as my rust goes right up to behind the door and almost all the way up to the body line. excellent visual template!!!