T case and D shaft questions

[sope]

I am making progress on my upgrades to my 87 1/2 ton short box. My new set up is a Detroit locked FF14 bolt, a Detroit locked D60, with 4.10's 38 / 12.5 Bias TSL's, high steer, a stock 305 and an SM 465. I am wondering if my NP208 will be able to handle this set up. The truck will see a lot of trails, some rocks and minimal mud. I do plan on a doubler in the next couple of years but I can't do it now. I've got to get my truck going this Spring. My next question is will the half ton drive shafts be OK with conversion joints and if so will I have to shorten them? I had 10 bolts, now D60 and 14 bolt and I have 4" lift

Any input would be appreciated. The truck is comming together and I will have to make these decisions soon.
Thanks, JP

 

[mouse]

The front shaft will use the same joint unless you upgraded the pinion in the axle. I ran a conversion joint in the rear for about a year before getting a CV shaft. It worked fine until I did some suspension work and got some vibs.

 

[sope]

Thanks, I'm more worried about breakage than vibrations. Has anyone had luck with a 208 while running 38's or bigger lockers and 1ton axles? I'm hoping I'll be OK due to the low power of a 305.
Also I've read here that a 203 won't bolt to an SM465. Is this true? If so how do you do a 203, 205 doubler with a 4 speed? An adapter?

 

[mouse]

There was a 203 that the factory used with the 465, but it uses a rare 10-spline shaft.

 

[sope]

Thanks. I'll keep an eye out locally.

 

[6.2Blazer]

You really should not have any issues with the 208 t-case if it's in decent shape and you don't bounce any rocks off of it. I've run a 241, which is a very similar design, or years now with 38's, 1-tons, and dual lockers.

For the driveshafts, the final answer will be what they look like when you finished with the buildup. But in general the length will probably be okay as is.

Strength wise it can go either way, but again they will probably be okay if in good shape. Knock on wood, but I have yet to break the 1310 u-joint on the front driveshaft after years of wheeling (broke 2 Dana 60 30-spline stubs, a necked down inner, and sheered the stock steering arm off....so it gets used). My rear driveshaft also lasted for years with a Napa S44 to 1350 conversion u-joint on the rear driveshaft to axle connection. I am upgrading to all 1350 u-joints in the back, but never broke an S44 or conversion piece.

 

[sope]

Thanks. This info is good to hear. If The gearing seems OK I will leave the 208 in for good and build a skid plate for it. If not, next year or so I will start hunting down parts for a doubler. I will use a rear conversion joint with my 1/2 ton drive shaft as long as the drive shaft is still the right length. And I have already considered D 70 stub shafts but not yet. This build is adding up and the money's getting tight.

 

[mouse]

You should do OK with the 208. What until you've wheeled a little bit before spending the money on a doubler. Don't get me wrong, they are nice (expensive), but if you're not rock crawling all the time, you can get by without one initially. Make sure you can go offroading - buy parts as money, time, and patience dictates. I think its better to start simple and slowly work your way up.

 

[sope]

Actualy I've wheeled lots in my younger days but I'm just getting back in to it. My truck has been locked front and rear on 35's for years. I went out for the first time in four years with my 3 year old son and broke a front axle. This was axle number four for me but the first one with one of with my son in the truck. We got home after a long day of winching and recovery work to get the truck out in 2wdr. My son talked about it for days so I decided it was time for some upgrades so we can get out more often.