Tailgate Woes (act surprised, OK?)

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Effyoo, Nov 24, 2001.

  1. Effyoo

    Effyoo Registered Member

    Sep 26, 2001
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    Yesterday, I removed the access panel to the tailgate to see why the emm eff window hasn't worked since I bought it a couple of months ago. Fast forward an hour or two, right to the point where the tailgate and bumper are removed, along with the back half of my interior. One thing led to another and I just couldn't stop. I need the back half of the floor, a new tailgate, new guts, a tail panel, and Bill Gates to finance the project if I were to buy all new stuff... Or I can see if duct tape is available in dark blue. So here are my questions: Do Suburbans have the same gate/tail panel setup? I remember seeing one in a junkyard that was pretty clean. If they're the same, me and the blue wrench are going to make a trip. How about the USB glass gates? Any good? I assume they have steel inserts and are predrilled? They are about the same price as the GM gate, and I've read a lot of posts that say aftermarket ones of the $199 variety fit like crap. Anyone?

    "There are 3 kinds of people in this world...Those who can count, and those who can't"
  2. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

    Jul 23, 2000
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    E-town baby!
    Are you serious? A Blazer with rust at the rear area...never heard of that in my life!!!(OK enough acting surprised...)

    Suburban gates are different...

    I think most tailgate fitment problems stem from the bedside supports being rotted and the bedsides leaning outwards.

    Check with Yunit (he just posted pics of his floor swap/repair) and Itali83...Riz is also either near finished his or is finished and doesn't feel like bragging yet. As far as I know all three of them purchased their rear floor assemblies from GM for a very reasonable amount.

    There have been other solutions too...Grim Reaper made his own tailpan and went gonzo overkill with it.[​IMG] Just depends on what you want and what you can afford.

    Myself...I found a rust free rear half of a 73 Blazer and spliced it onto my 81. Check out the pics below...


    <font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/project_T2> tRusty pics...</a>
  3. chevyfumes

    chevyfumes Court jester Premium Member

    Feb 24, 2000
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    Watch for the muzzleflash!
    EffYoo, quick question do you know the difference between Rene and god......... thats right trick question.... Rene is god[​IMG]

    <font color=blue> I'd rather have a bottle in front of me, than a frontal lobotomy!
  4. Blazer_Boy

    Blazer_Boy 1/2 ton status

    Dec 16, 2000
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    Sioux City, IA, USA
    WOW! This sounds familar. A simple summer project of fixing the exact same thing is still going on with me. I drop around $1,500 worth of parts into my rear. The floor will run in the low $400s. The tailgate should be about $375. I also bought new hinges.

    If you are well equipped, then this should be in your means. Unbolt your old bed and wheel housing and rip the whole thing out. The wheel housings are spot welded to the floor and can be saved, but if you're going this far, why not go whole hog. I think you can buy new tailgate posts after market. I just used the bottom half off of an old pickup. If you're bedsides are bowed, don't expect to use the factory bolt holes on the tailpan, nothing wants to line up. I got a couple bolts to fit, tightend the quarter panels with the come-along, and then tightend the bolts down. When you back off the come-along the panels will bow back a little, so you have to over do it before you let off. When I got my gate to close right, I just welded everything in sight.

    This project is going to open a whole can of worms. I had to fix my footwells upfront. My subrame that holds the front of the bed was shot, so I used 1/8" square tube (make tool-man grunt). Heck my tailpan was split in half and my floor was on my frame. I had to drop the front of the floor about a 3/4" just to get things to line-up again. I had to do tons of little tweaking just to get things to fit. It looks killer now though. You should also bedline your floor.

    You could do something a little more modest and get a tailpan and patch panels, LMC sells them. All three of those are only $80 less than the complete GM floor, and there's no warranty with the patches.

    Itali83 and Riz have done this too. We all had lots of unexpected fun.

    <a target="_blank" href=http://new.wavlist.com/movies/031/ag-blow.wav>"I ain't nobody, dork."</a>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/bigkern76>http://www.geocities.com/bigkern76</a>

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