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TH350 rebuild kit opinions

DizturbedOne

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May 11, 2007
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The TH350 in my 77 Jimmy is getting a rebuild soon. It's got 35's with 4.10's and a NP205 is going in it at the same time to replace the beat up 203 that's in it right now. I use it for camping & light wheeling, as well as a fair amount of daily driver use as a backup vehicle. It's got a 400SB and it's usually loaded to the BRIM when I go somewhere lol (wife and kids). I'd like to not worry about towing a small trailer or boat while loaded up and I don't mind a snappy shift.

Knowing that... What is the best kit for me? For the most complete kit with Alto's and Kolenes do I need to piece it together, or can I still get a "complete" kit from B&M, Raybesto's, or Hughes? They all have kits that look pretty nice, but I have no idea what they actually contain. I'd like some nice frictions and steels and the most complete kit I can find.

Also looking for a good cooler for it, and wondering whether anyone has had fitment issues with either steel or aluminum replacement pans. Mine has a huge hole in it and I want the one that will fit the best, they're about the same price. Thanks for any help I get guys.

And WOOHOO to finally driving my truck again!!! :k5:
 
I just picked up a "Summit-branded" kit from the Summit in Sparks a few weeks ago. It turned out to be a TransGo I think...It was the cheapest one they had in stock that was Alto frictions and Kolene steels. They also carry the Ron Sessions book for about $10 less than everywhere else if you don't already have it. I found it most affordable for me to take this route...the only thing the kit doesn't have was some valve body springs that I wanted to increase line pressure and a gasket for the support plate to protect the direct clutch better.

Something you'll also want to make sure on is the direct clutch drum bushing. Most kits use a .75" wide bushing, but (the NAPA one, for instance) some kits still use the .5" bushing. Obviously the wider one is more desirable.

I bought a cheap +3 quart B&M pan mostly for the sump extension when I'm sideways. I'm not hugely impressed with it, and it only came in chrome, but it was the most reasonable deal I could find. I have basically the same one on my 4l60e and it doesn't leak or anything. I just feel like it kind of sucks that you have to spend $50 on some stamped sheet metal and it's not even made exactly how you want it.

You may already know this, but chances are it will help someone. You can use a cam bearing/babbit bearing tool for a couple of the bushings (namely the direct clutch, you really need a proper driver for that one). Removing the input shaft-to-output shaft bushing kind of requires a special tool...unless you have a dremel. Thing works like a charm and the bushing almost jumps out of the output shaft.

Oh, if you don't know, get a kit with 5 direct clutches, probably any of the performance ones will. It's worth the 30 minutes to chuck the piston up on a brake lathe and run it down to about .685" for the extra room for that clutch and steel...you want at least about .010" clearance per friction or they'll tend to drag. That extra friction will increase the holding force about 25% and that drum takes quite a beating. Throwing a steel or bare friction under the intermediate springs will help take up a bit of the clearance in those clutches too.

FWIW, the bible says the Alto clutches are not really warranted in most applications. If you aren't planning on pushing the limits on it, you may want to consider some Borg Warner frictions or similar. B&M and TCI only use Altos on the highest-hp-warrantied trannys that they sell. I use the Altos because I overdo everything, even with only a stock 70s motor :D, but if you're probably going to wear out seals or thrust surfaces first anyway, why go way overkill on frictions, ya know?

If you aren't familiar with Asemblee Goo, they sell it at NAPA and it's pretty sweet stuff to have around. I find it protects the seals a lot better during assembly and ATF pretty much melts it on contact.

Let me know if you find any parts you need like pitted planets or something. I have 3 cores parted out right now that I need to start posting on eBay. I'm also just a few minutes away from Summit. If you're looking at buying something there and the website isn't telling you everything, I'd be happy to go check it out for you in person...gives me an excuse to look at all the racing seats :D. They also have a pretty sweet RV TC that they carry, but you'll pull teeth trying to find it through them, the specs they lists sucks on TCs. I can get you a P/N if you want off mine, I think it's about 1200 rpm stall.
 
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Thanks for the input Owen. Everytime I drive this thing a distance it's up the mountains fully loaded, so I think I'll definitely being going with some Alto Red's and Kolene's.

How complete was that kit from Summit? My main thing is not having to piece together a bunch of little parts my first time through
 
Thanks for the input Owen. Everytime I drive this thing a distance it's up the mountains fully loaded, so I think I'll definitely being going with some Alto Red's and Kolene's.

How complete was that kit from Summit? My main thing is not having to piece together a bunch of little parts my first time through

All the consumables and specifically 5 clutches for the direct drum. Most of the rings it comes with are iron too and not Teflon. It's sum-705020 and it's a relabeled transtec kit it looks like. I think all the alto/Jolene kits are gonna be the same really, but this was the cheapest one they had in sparks on the shelf. If I can walk in to a summit racing, I shouldnt have to wait on shipping lol.

Came with a .06, .08, and .10 pump thrust washers and a shim..didn't mike it cuz I didn't need it. It also had a shim for the output shaft to take up some rear endplay too if you're trying to save a worn case. Did not have new snap rings though, but that shouldn't really be necessary if you aren't a bull in a china shop.
 
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