The 20 year truck plan, Advice?

[t556]

The 20 year Truck

I'm planning on building up a K5 blazer into what I call my "20 year truck". By this I mean a vehicle that I can use as a reliable daily driver, capable of mild off-road work, and reliable enough to get our of dodge in an emergency situation.

I'm really excited to get started into the project but I need to do a bit more planning, and find the base K5.

Because of financial reasons I can really only have 1 motorcycle and one truck at a time, so this vehicle must function as a daily driver as I do the upgrades (With the obvious intermitten down time for upgrades). In order to do this I plan on doing it in 3 phases. Phase 1 will be corrosion prevention and hardening the powertrain, and doing regular maintenence and repairs on the entire vehicle. Phase 1 being the only time the vehicle is unusable for an extended period of time.

Because this is to be a daily driver, and I'm not a 4x4 guru. I would like to keep the engine close to stock (thanks to all those who helped answer those questions for me earlier). I'm interested in running 33" tires.

The first question is concerning axels and differentials. I've always wanted a selectable locking rear differential. However I've heard that the stock 10 bolt axels may not be up for the task. Will I have an issue running 10 bolts with 33" tires?

Thanks for your input, I'll have a lot of questions to ask as I plan out this build. I really appreciate your advice!

 

[Deuling]

Look for an 87-91 tbi 350 k5 for better economy and less messing with carbs. Find one with little to no rust, as thats just a time killing process that really doesnt improve any performance. 10 bolts will work just perfect for 33" tires

 

[t556]

Look for an 87-91 tbi 350 k5 for better economy and less messing with carbs. Find one with little to no rust, as thats just a time killing process that really doesnt improve any performance. 10 bolts will work just perfect for 33" tires

Do you think a locking differential will cause problems?

 

[rebelgregory]

Glad we jumped that engine hurdle...

10 bolts should be OK with 33s. I ran them at one time. 10 bolts aren't total junk, they just have limits as to how hard you can wheel em and the size tire they'll handle. For a daily driver, you'll be good IMO.

Lockers and gears are cool, but I'd definitely look for a 3/4 or 1 ton axle that may be had whole with a better gear ratio and a locker/posi for half the price of doing the same work to your 10 bolt.

33's - depending on offset, brand of tire, etc, they'll rub at stock height. Maybe someone has a setup that doesn't rub and they can share their specs with you. Longer shackles are the quickest fix, but if you EVER plan to lift it, skip the shackles
and spring for the lift.

As far as phase 1 - corrosion protection - I stand by my the comment I made previously. Spend a little more at first for a truck in good shape. If you don't mind turning a wrench, but don't know anything about body work or don't have any tools, etc, I would definitely recommend looking for a truck with little to no rust as a priority. Paint and body work gets expensive AND takes your truck out of commision for awhile.

 

[K5dreamer]

Basically you're building a daily driven bug out rig.

My advice...

M1009 or M1008

I'm only getting rid of mine because of damage that I'm not skilled enough, or financially secure enough, to take care of.

The 6.2 diesel is no cummins or duramax, but they have plenty of power for real world use, and get excellent mileage (useful for long range drives out of dodge). A 27 gallon tank and 22 mpg on the highway with 33in tires is pretty awesome. The only thing I had a solid complaint with on my M1009 was I wanted a manual (more fun, and better mileage), and it needed a turbo (more power and even better fuel economy). The trucks are cheap to buy, and you can find some pretty rust free. Far more reliable than a gas guzzler, will survive an EMP where a vehicle with an ECM wont, and will run biodiesel in the event that the crisis you're bugging out from is a petroleum shortage.

But for a nearly 6000lbs rig, that Im loading for bear, and depending on to get me and those I care out of a bad situation (bugging out) I'd spend the few hundred dollars to throw a set of 3/4 ton axles under the truck to be sure. With a 6.2 and 33's you will never break anything on a 14 bolt. Also, I run 33's on my M1009 and its never rubbed. and my front springs are badly worn.

as for the the locker, why a selectable in the rear? seems like hassle. If you find a set of 3/4 ton axles, get one with an open rear, and put a detroit or other similar locker in the back and forget about it. usually selectable lockers are installed in the front differential.

 

[blazinzuk]

I would start with the nicest rig you can afford. Rust being the main concern.

10 bolt is fine with 33s. If you want to upgrade your axle get a 6 lug SF 14 bolt.

Takes moving the perches and shock mounts but a pretty simple swap.

I would not put a 14b ff in there, big heavy pig, terrible ground clearance not needed at all for a rig running 33s or even 35s.

Gearing the axles is key here, the proper gear ratio will make a daily driver so much better to drive.

Lots of little things you can do to get more travel out of a smaller truck. Even with just off the shelf lift springs, doing extended shocks, changing the shackle angle, making sure brake lines are long enough etc. will make it a very capable wheeler.

 

[COCHEV]

Best thing to do is keep it as stock and simple as possible. If you can't afford an expensive build and you need it to get you around every day, don't hammer the crap out if it . Drive it like you depend on it. Stay up on preventative maintenance.

I agree with the tbi years and low rust. I also prefer base models. Manual windows, no carpet etc.

And manual trans FTW

 

[Wicked Wolf Auto]

Keep your eye on KSL. K5's in great shape pop up for next to nothing all the time.

 

[COCHEV]

Best thing to do is keep it as stock and simple as possible. If you can't afford an expensive build and you need it to get you around every day, don't hammer the crap out if it . Drive it like you depend on it. Stay up on preventative maintenance.

I agree with the tbi years and low rust. I also prefer base models. Manual windows, no carpet etc.

And manual trans FTW

Geeze, I sound just like my old man now. Must be getting old...