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The RedBurb

Every Part Is Replaceable
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Newbie gmt-400 question for anyone listening, my father-in-law has a 93 1500 and wants to update/replace his headlights. They’re old and dim and one is out. My question is, can just the bulbs be replaced and are there LED replacements or does the entire housing need to be replaced? Thanks in advance


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You can replace just the bulbs. I can’t remember the numbers off hand though. @kgblazerfive has some aftermarket ones in his burb that he doesn’t like, maybe he can fill you in on which ones they are. Their are tons of aftermarket options sadly not all are good
 
I got mine off of Amazon, went the cheap route and they suck. When I get around to fixing them I am just going to get new factory ones and call it good with new brighter bulbs.
 
I love what you have done saving this rig...being a past old Fla resident caught my eye about your thread, and I read the entire thing... I too have saved many old rigs like yours, and alway go thru them from bumper to bumper restoring and repairing PO nightmares and wiring rats nests...

One thing that did concern me is the use of "copper tubing" for brake lines... Im hoping you are talking about ni-copper lines, and not " plumbing grade" copper tube.
Plumbing grade tube should never be used for brake lines where hydraulic pressures can easily exceed 1000 psi...I would hate to hear of a complete brake failure if a line split open and your family were hurt in an accident...:eek1::eek1::eek1:

just an FYI...and if you used nicopper...carry on..:waytogo:
 
kgblazerfive said:
I got mine off of Amazon, went the cheap route and they suck. When I get around to fixing them I am just going to get new factory ones and call it good with new brighter bulbs.
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Thanks for the tip. I’ll look into it. What he doesn’t want to do is spend $300 on new headlights, so maybe there’s a happy medium somewhere.

wasted wages said:
I love what you have done saving this rig...being a past old Fla resident caught my eye about your thread, and I read the entire thing... I too have saved many old rigs like yours, and alway go thru them from bumper to bumper restoring and repairing PO nightmares and wiring rats nests...

One thing that did concern me is the use of "copper tubing" for brake lines... Im hoping you are talking about ni-copper lines, and not " plumbing grade" copper tube.
Plumbing grade tube should never be used for brake lines where hydraulic pressures can easily exceed 1000 psi...I would hate to hear of a complete brake failure if a line split open and your family were hurt in an accident...:eek1::eek1::eek1:

just an FYI...and if you used nicopper...carry on..:waytogo:
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I really appreciate the encouragement. Kudos like yours and others I’ve received are what has kept me going. Wish I had started the thread earlier as there have been many times that I’ve needed such encouragement in the past, but I am here now. The major thing that still needs to be addressed, aside from getting around to building my Dana 60, is the rust. I’ve cut out, covered over, and rattle canned everything to try to give what’s there a little more life, but there still needs to be a permanent solution to the rust damage. Some days, particularly after reading through many of the threads on this board, I get encouraged to repair the body that’s sitting on the frame now. But there’s so much of it, that’s there are other days I think I would be money ahead to just buy a motorless rust free donor to do a body swap. But that in and of itself is a massive project that I don’t really have time or space for.

As for the brake lines, I’m gonna guess that by nicopper you’re referring to nickel copper, and yes, I used 100% nickel copper lines specifically designated for brake lines. I went the nicopper route to avoid rust issues in the future. I appreciate your concern and would certainly want someone to call me out if I was doing something wreckless.

Thanks again for the compliments!

Andy
 
Awesome....

I figured you did the right thing and researched the material the lines are made of,,,but there is a lot of bad info out there...
And from the amount and type of craftsmanship you have put into your rig, I figured you weren't a novice...

Get that 60 done !!!
I have a dodge 60 in the front of my truggy..the spring pads are a shade narrower, but other than that it fit like a glove..I'm on 44's with an ORD doubler w/ 4:56's and it works great...with 37's and the diesel, you should have plenty of low end grunt...ever thought about swapping to a
T-400? No O/D - but they are pretty bulletproof....

Keep up the good work !!
 
wasted wages said:
Awesome....

I figured you did the right thing and researched the material the lines are made of,,,but there is a lot of bad info out there...
And from the amount and type of craftsmanship you have put into your rig, I figured you weren't a novice...

Get that 60 done !!!
I have a dodge 60 in the front of my truggy..the spring pads are a shade narrower, but other than that it fit like a glove..I'm on 44's with an ORD doubler w/ 4:56's and it works great...with 37's and the diesel, you should have plenty of low end grunt...ever thought about swapping to a
T-400? No O/D - but they are pretty bulletproof....

Keep up the good work !!
Click to expand...

Ha, I feel like a novice sometimes. Compared to other guys, I don’t consider my skills quite up to snuff and almost always think I couldve done better. One rule I have tried to stick by though: it’s better to spend the money to do a project the right way than it is to try and cut corners. That has led me to replacing entire systems like the brake lines and transmission cooling, and even improving upon factory designs (for increased reliability and ease of maintenance) like relocating the brake proportion valve and ditching the glow plug controller in favor of the manual solenoid.

The 700r4 that’s in there now is there to stay for a while. It’s suppose to be brand-spankin-new on the inside and built to the hilt and has performed flawlessly for me for the 1.5 years it’s been in the truck, though those have been all highway miles. Hope to get many more years of service out of it though. But I’ll keep the T-400 suggestion in the bank in case I ever need to abandon the 700r4.
 
AugustDiesel said:
I don’t consider my skills quite up to snuff
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Horse manure - Texan for, “I politely disagree.”

There is no destination; only the work and the progress that comes with it, and you have made quite a bit of progress.
AugustDiesel said:
Rusty did Christmas duty a little differently this year:
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“Just a suburban doing suburban things.”

Christmas tree hauling is a favorite domestic activity for my truck, too.

David
 
AugustDiesel said:
I thought seriously about quoting that line.

I agree I’ve definitely learned a lot. That has probably been the most valuable part of this whole experience. Am anxious to start building my welding skillset.
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Don't be anxious, be excited. Welding opens a lot of new doors.
 
campfire said:
Side note...a healthy 6.2 shouldn't *need* a block heater until it gets down to single-digit temperatures. If it won't start at 15* without a heater, I'd start looking at cranking speed & glow plug effectiveness. Your N/A 6.5 might be a slightly lower compression ratio.

Of course, if you never see subzero weather it might be easier to just keep plugging it in 3 times a year. And I'll admit to plugging in on 20 degree days sometimes just to get it started faster. ;)

:popcorn:
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Had to go all the way back to the first page to find this again, lol. Happy to report that at 33*, the manual glow plug system performed flawlessly and the truck cranked right up.

F.S.F.W said:
Possibly leaking from the reservoir because this stud is loose?

View attachment 286099
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Unfortunately, this was not the source of the leak. Still leaking and actually is getting worse. Walked out the door this morning to the biggest puddle yet, probably 6-8” in diameter. I have, however, noticed that there is a pronounced drip from this spot here:

71E57732-B1F1-4F86-AFC7-82B451A51F7E.jpeg

Looks like pulling the pump out is in my near future ...
 
AugustDiesel said:
Looks like pulling the pump out is in my near future ...
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Should be easier to diagnose from that point. Those cans aren't always a perfect fit. I’ve had a few leaks right out of the box. Could be a fatigued o-ring in the pressure line leaking under load.

David
 
AugustDiesel said:
Newbie gmt-400 question for anyone listening, my father-in-law has a 93 1500 and wants to update/replace his headlights. They’re old and dim and one is out. My question is, can just the bulbs be replaced and are there LED replacements or does the entire housing need to be replaced? Thanks in advance


View attachment 286293
Click to expand...
https://www.1aauto.com/search?q=headlights&year=1993&model=1518
or
https://www.1aauto.com/lighting-kit/i/1alht00144?f=807382&y=1993
I just recently got a grill and one of there headlight/turn signal kits for my Mazda work beater truck and they were good quality for a good price. The headlights even came with bulbs for mine.
 
So I finally decided to get off my butt and do something, so I went out to replace the thermostat and crossover pipe. Needed to replace the crossover pipe because the threads in the t-stat housing were damaged. Have had it sitting on the shelf for a year now. Anyways, get out there, get it all done and buttoned down, and overtightened the bolts on the driver-side of the pipe and cracked the flange in half. Didn't realize this until everything was put back together and cranked the truck up to find coolant pouring out the crack. SMH.
 
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