Finally getting down to it
CK5
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You're making @GWeakland620 jealous...
Does the cruise control work?
Why are you using a 6.5 valve cover?
You're making @GWeakland620 jealous...
Does the cruise control work?
Why are you using a 6.5 valve cover?
Cruise control does not work. Haven’t really figured out why but hasn’t really been a if deal.
Using a 6.5 valve cover because it’s a 6.5 engine.
It’s a 6.5 NA Goodwrench engine.
I’ve been putting this off for a long time. But it’s time to get it done.
I guess there’s no turning back now ...
Yeah I'll be right where you are soon enough. My injection pump is on it's way out.You're making @GWeakland620 jealous...
Does the cruise control work?
Why are you using a 6.5 valve cover?
Hoping mine lasts me a long while!
This is where I’m gonna have to leave it for the night:
Sun is setting, it’s cold outside and the wind is picking up. 48* ain’t much for some folks but it’s pretty darn cold for this Florida boy. Plus I’m tired and that’s when I start making mistakes. Shame though, bc I’m pretty limited on time for the rest of the week. It’ll get done though.
I do have a question though:
According to this diagram on my radiator support:
This device is my EGR and EPR solenoids. I have read a lot about guys deleting their emissions equipment from 6.2s. I already know I don’t have an EGR valve, can I just delete the rest of this stuff or do I need it?
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That's some good progress!
Yeah, my truck has 180k miles on it with the original pump.
Yeah, my truck has 180k miles on it with the original pump.
Realized I uploaded the wrong photo on my previous post regarding the EGR and EPR solenoids. That’s been corrected.
You didn't read in the beginning he has a 6.5?You're making @GWeakland620 jealous...
Does the cruise control work?
Why are you using a 6.5 valve cover?
You didn't read in the beginning he has a 6.5?
It’s actually one of the reasons I bought the truck. I figured if the rest of the truck was crap it would at least have a decent engine and rear axle. Which is pretty much what I ended up with.
If you cant find any drip rails let me know. I've got a rotten 89 parts burb I could pull them off of and ship down that way
If you cant find any drip rails let me know. I've got a rotten 89 parts burb I could pull them off of and ship down that way
I’ll take them! I only need the two rear side doors. Name your price, sir. Whole reason why I got single cab drip rails in the first place was because I couldn’t find any for burbs. Thanks! This is great.
Ah, an aftermarket N/A engine. That explains why everything is wrong for a 6.5 from a truck application.
Crossover housing is wrong, V-belt setup is wrong, vacuum pump is wrong, cruise control module is wrong. DB2 pump was only used in '92 & '93. Obviously you're missing the intake & exhaust plumbing for the stock turbocharger.
^^^ None of this stuff would have been found on a 6.5 truck.
But for your truck it's just fine.
Go ahead and delete it. If you wind up with no circuits on the vacuum pump you can block off the vacuum line entirely. Though I think you have vacuum-based HVAC, no?
The second solenoid activates a valve that chokes off the flow where the driver-side exhaust manifold dumps into its exhaust pipe. This builds back pressure so the EGR port is more effective. Obviously you have no use for this artificial flow restriction.
You didn't read in the beginning he has a 6.5?
I read it. And then I forgot about it.
Reading these posts, we live in very different worlds. I'm overjoyed that we're supposed to have a brief interruption in our sub-zero weather tomorrow. When it gets all the way up to 28 degrees I'm replacing that brake line that burst last week.
Kansas salt my foot. I'd trade you any day of the week.
Carry on. It's funner reading about wrenching than actually doing it right now.
Reading these posts, we live in very different worlds. I'm overjoyed that we're supposed to have a brief interruption in our sub-zero weather tomorrow. When it gets all the way up to 28 degrees I'm replacing that brake line that burst last week.
Kansas salt my foot. I'd trade you any day of the week.
Carry on. It's funner reading about wrenching than actually doing it right now.
Very different worlds indeed. I just looked up the temps in your area and all I can say is if I moved up there I would never get anything done bc I would never leave the house. But I guess it’s all about conditioning. When you live somewhere where all 12 months of the year can see 80* temps, and at least 10 of them see 90*+, a low of -15* sounds life-threatening. Lol.
Sure can get a lot done though. And yeah, the Kansas salt did not do as much damage as some. Just enough to warrant replacing the body, but not enough that salvaging isn’t still an option, and it’s looking like I’ll be taking the salvaging route at this point.
Yes in fact I do. The HVAC is vacuum based. Is there a way to delete and still have HVAC function?
Yep, can really throw some people off without knowing it’s a Goodwrench. The block is a 6.5 and all the accessories are off a 6.2.
I’ll be pulling the valve covers off tomorrow, cleaning them up, then resetting them with The Right Stuff. Very interested to see what it looks like on the inside.
Next week I’ll get the oil pan resealed, change the power steering pump, and then the crossover pipe for the third time, and this thing will be ready to ride again for a while.
Oh, and UPS is delivering a very special birthday present tomorrow. Stay tuned.
Andy
It's possible. If you have vacuum-based HVAC, it's going to be a headache to change out all the actuators. You could grab an aftermarket electric vacuum pump. Or you could switch to a simpler cable-based factory setup from a truck without A/C. Or you can grab a gold-plated aftermarket system like Vintage Air. But I don't think either of those are worth the headache unless you already have some reason to be rebuilding the entire HVAC system. I'd just leave it as it is unless it's broken beyond repair.
The vacuum pump drives the oil pump shaft, so you can't just yank it and plug the hole. You'd need to track down a blank attached to a gear if you want to lose the pump. Those would be found in 6.2 trucks without vacuum applications. 700R4 or SM465 without air conditioning or smog junk. Come to think of it, you probably couldn't get a 700R4 in a 3/4-ton truck, so maybe it would just need to be an SM465 truck.
6.5 trucks could have a blank with a built-in tach sensor filling that hole. That's another option if you want the pump gone.
But it's really not worth the headache.
I'd avoid Right Stuff if it were my engine. It works quite well, but it's not fun if you ever plan on removing those covers. Ever. It's just a pain to clean, a bit worse than RTV. And with the flimsy sheet metal covers you can easily ruin their flatness as you try to pry them free.
Since you plan on keeping this truck for a while, I'd use something less sticky like a grey Permatex. The downside of that is that being less sticky makes it easier for it to leak. There's no free lunch.
It's possible. If you have vacuum-based HVAC, it's going to be a headache to change out all the actuators. You could grab an aftermarket electric vacuum pump. Or you could switch to a simpler cable-based factory setup from a truck without A/C. Or you can grab a gold-plated aftermarket system like Vintage Air. But I don't think either of those are worth the headache unless you already have some reason to be rebuilding the entire HVAC system. I'd just leave it as it is unless it's broken beyond repair.
The vacuum pump drives the oil pump shaft, so you can't just yank it and plug the hole. You'd need to track down a blank attached to a gear if you want to lose the pump. Those would be found in 6.2 trucks without vacuum applications. 700R4 or SM465 without air conditioning or smog junk. Come to think of it, you probably couldn't get a 700R4 in a 3/4-ton truck, so maybe it would just need to be an SM465 truck.
6.5 trucks could have a blank with a built-in tach sensor filling that hole. That's another option if you want the pump gone.
But it's really not worth the headache.
Yeah it doesn't sound like it. I just didn't know what the function/purpose of the solenoids were if I didn't even have an EGR valve. HVAC is working great so I'll probably leave it as-is until something messes up.
I'd avoid Right Stuff if it were my engine. It works quite well, but it's not fun if you ever plan on removing those covers. Ever. It's just a pain to clean, a bit worse than RTV. And with the flimsy sheet metal covers you can easily ruin their flatness as you try to pry them free.
Since you plan on keeping this truck for a while, I'd use something less sticky like a grey Permatex. The downside of that is that being less sticky makes it easier for it to leak. There's no free lunch.
No free lunch indeed. Since I already have the Right Stuff, I'll probably just go ahead and use it and make a mental note that it'll be difficult to remove the covers later on. However, there are only two reasons I can think of to remove the valve covers again: either to fix another leak or to do a turbo upgrade. The turbo is in the very distant future (I think), and I don't ever want to deal with a valve cover leak again (or at least not for a very long time) so maybe the Right Stuff IS the right stuff? (pun intended).
