CK5
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The RedBurb

Every Part Is Replaceable
Looks shiny clean to me.



Yes, I'd leave the sealing surface alone. Clean off any peeling paint and then leave it as-is. Paint helps keep the outside from rusting. But the inside is bathed in oil, and the sealing surface gets that coat of weatherproof silicone. It's fine. If your paint doesn't stick well, and you put the silicone on top, the silicone will peel off with the failed paint (plus you'll be back to leaking again). If you manage to get a large chip of paint to fall through the valve train into the oil pan it can play havoc with the oil system.

Since there's no gain and some risk, I'd skip painting the inside.

Rusting through a valve cover seems unlikely in your climate, unless you're spending lots of time in the salt fog down at the beach. So you don't need to paint the outside, either. It's just aesthetics.

That’s good info. Thank you. Yeah the more I thought about painting the inside the more it seems like a bad idea.

Likewise, the more I thought about painting the outside, the more I realized it isn’t necessary. I may still do it, we’ll see.

CDR leaking oil externally is unlikely (unless the can split in half. What is likely is a leak from the rubber grommet. Definitely replace that while you're changing the CDR. It should be listed in the rockauto catalog.

Replacing it periodically is prudent, as a worn CDR valve will dump extra oil into the intake.

Also good info. Glad I picked one up.

I couldn’t find a part that was specifically listed as “CDR grommet” or “PCV grommet” but I did find one listed as “oil filler tube grommet” and it looks to be the same? Not sure on the size though...

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That’s good info. Thank you. Yeah the more I thought about painting the inside the more it seems like a bad idea.

Likewise, the more I thought about painting the outside, the more I realized it isn’t necessary. I may still do it, we’ll see.



Also good info. Glad I picked one up.

I couldn’t find a part that was specifically listed as “CDR grommet” or “PCV grommet” but I did find one listed as “oil filler tube grommet” and it looks to be the same? Not sure on the size though...

View attachment 292631

No, that one is just what it says, for the oil filler tube on the front of the timing cover. Be sure you look up parts for a 6.5 truck, as the 6.2 trucks did not have this extra grommet.
 
No, that one is just what it says, for the oil filler tube on the front of the timing cover. Be sure you look up parts for a 6.5 truck, as the 6.2 trucks did not have this extra grommet.

Looking for it under a 96 6.5 (since that’s what year my engine was cast), and it’s not showing anything under any word search. That same part number comes up as an “oil separator grommet” in Amazon though... will keep looking
 
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Lots of updates to catch up on. Great progress!

David

Thanks David.

Have had some discouraging moments in the last 24 hours. Apparently when removing the passenger VC, the fuel hose from the filter to the IP cracked right at the fuel filter and leaked out a ton of fuel. I managed to just cut the cracked end and reattach and that stopped the leak, so that’s good.

Then the big TEST for the new barn door drip rail and weatherstripping came last night with the cold front that blew through, and it FAILED big time. Back of the truck is flooded. At this point, it’s either because that driver barn door is misaligned, or maybe even the body is warped. If it’s the latter, I’m going to have some hard decisions to make.

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Andy
 
My barn doors leak, too, and it’s probably because the truck gets flexed pretty decently. I have to adjust them about once a year, but there’s still a very tiny bit of water that gets in.

David
 
My barn doors leak, too, and it’s probably because the truck gets flexed pretty decently. I have to adjust them about once a year, but there’s still a very tiny bit of water that gets in.

David

Well that’s encouraging to know I’m not the only one lol
 
Looking for it under a 96 6.5 (since that’s what year my engine was cast), and it’s not showing anything under any word search. That same part number comes up as an “oil separator grommet” in Amazon though... will keep looking

I looked up my purchase order from 12/2017. I bought WVE/AIRTEX/WELLS 2P1004 with 23/32" ID and 1" OD. As I recall, the oil tube grommet is larger. Though I don't have dimensions handy.

Hope that helps. It's not in Rockauto's catalog anymore, but it was listed as a PCV grommet.
 
Also, measure your cover and CDR valve to make sure that you're using the standard grommet. You're mixing and matching parts, it's possible the stock grommet isn't what you need. Though it looks standard in the picture.
 
Also, measure your cover and CDR valve to make sure that you're using the standard grommet. You're mixing and matching parts, it's possible the stock grommet isn't what you need. Though it looks standard in the picture.

That helps, thank you! I had already ordered that grommet through Amazon (since shipping was faster and free). It will arrive Saturday, and the new CDR valve arrives Monday, so I’ll know by then. If it’s the wrong grommet, returns are free
 
Well, have made a small amount of progress over the last week. Decided to go the aesthetic route and painted the outside of the valve covers.

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Got the power steering pump swapped out for free under warranty and it’s ready to go back in.

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Hopefully picking up my new hydroboost tomorrow. Cannot for the life of me figure out this PCV grommet. Have tried two from Amazon and one from Napa to no avail. Will be going by autozone soon to see what they have. Will keep y’all posted. Oh. And a friend came by and helped me adjust the barn doors so they don’t flood the cargo area. Still leaks, about a drip every 1-2 seconds, but a significant improvement over what it was.

Andy
 
Cannot for the life of me figure out this PCV grommet

Measure the diameter of the valve cover hole, the CDR pipe, and the pipe bulge that holds the CDR in place. Or measure your old grommet if it's still around.

You're mixing and matching two different styles of CDR, but I would have thought the pieces are compatible.
 
Measure the diameter of the valve cover hole, the CDR pipe, and the pipe bulge that holds the CDR in place. Or measure your old grommet if it's still around.

You're mixing and matching two different styles of CDR, but I would have thought the pieces are compatible.

You would think. I measured them this morning. Still have the old grommet. OD looks to be about 1.25” measuring the VC hole and ID appears to be 1 1/8” measuring the old grommet. Whenever I lock it down I’ll be sure to post up what part number as I am sure it will be helpful to someone.
 
You're mixing and matching two different styles of CDR, but I would have thought the pieces are compatible.

On that subject of mixing and matching parts, which oil pan gasket should I be looking for? Napa has two different part numbers for the 6.5 and 6.2 diesel‘s, obvious answer would suggest I should get a gasket for a 6.5 since that’s what I have, correct?
 
On that subject of mixing and matching parts, which oil pan gasket should I be looking for? Napa has two different part numbers for the 6.5 and 6.2 diesel‘s, obvious answer would suggest I should get a gasket for a 6.5 since that’s what I have, correct?

Yes. The difference is whether you have a one-piece or two-piece rear main seal.
 
Intake and oil pan gaskets are in. Couple questions on the intake:

Why is this center opening blocked off on the new gasket when it’s not on the old gasket?

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And what is this piece for? (Ignorance is not always bliss).

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Intake and oil pan gaskets are in. Couple questions on the intake:

Why is this center opening blocked off on the new gasket when it’s not on the old gasket?

View attachment 293253
View attachment 293254

And what is this piece for? (Ignorance is not always bliss).

View attachment 293255

Center opening is EGR. The new gasket assumes (correctly) that you're not using EGR, so the port is blocked off.

The triangular gasket is for the injection pump. If you're not pulling that you don't need to use it. Yet. ;)
 
Center opening is EGR. The new gasket assumes (correctly) that you're not using EGR, so the port is blocked off.

The triangular gasket is for the injection pump. If you're not pulling that you don't need to use it. Yet. ;)

Fantastic info. Thank you sir!
 
Center opening is EGR. The new gasket assumes (correctly) that you're not using EGR, so the port is blocked off.

Actually, this raises another question. I “thought” that my intake didn’t have an EGR valve. But, according to this diagram I found, it does. If I’m blocking off the EGR ports, couldn’t I remove this valve (if indeed that’s what it is)? I already removed the tps a long time ago. From what I’ve read elsewhere it’s doable. Just wanted to be sure.

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Actually, this raises another question. I “thought” that my intake didn’t have an EGR valve. But, according to this diagram I found, it does. If I’m blocking off the EGR ports, couldn’t I remove this valve (if indeed that’s what it is)? I already removed the tps a long time ago. From what I’ve read elsewhere it’s doable. Just wanted to be sure.

View attachment 293299
View attachment 293298

Yes, you have a 1/2-ton emissions intake manifold ("C-code"). The picture below shows what a dual-plane non-emissions J-code manifold looks like. These were used on 3/4-ton and 1-ton trucks. The opening is larger, and these are air-limited engines. I noticed a difference when I swapped out my C-code manifold.


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These two cover most 6.2 trucks, but there are a few more intake manifolds used on these engines (6.5TD manifolds are a bit different on top to accommodate the turbine plenum). @AgDieseler has at least half of them hanging on his wall... ;)
 
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