Tire rubbing on PITMAN ARM.

[sta500666]

I have had my blazer for about 6 years and have just been too lazy to deal with this problem, but it has gotton to the point where I need to replace the joint so I want to fix the problem completely... I have 33X12.5 Tires and everytime I take a right turn and crank the wheel too far the side of my drivers side tire rubs on the end of the pitman arm. It has finally rubbed all the rubber covering the joint off. I see other people running the same size tires and they don't seem to have this problem. I don't have a lift kit. Is there a way to make this so it doesn't happen, preferably an easy fix??? This summer I'm swaping both front and rear differentials for larger ones so that would be a great time for me to work on the pitman arm problem.

 

[vortec]

different wheel backspacing could make a difference.

 

[hunterguy86]

I had the exact same problem on my blazer but it went away after I got my new wheels. I am running 15x8 wheels with 3.5 in backspacing.

 

[sta500666]

is backspacing just where the distance from the middle of the wheel?? Can you buy a plat to do the same thing?

 

[barneybasher1010]

You can get wheel spacers but they are $$$$. They would be a waste if you are going to 8 lug in a few months.

 

[vortec]

spacers are certainly available, but i'd say a wheel with different backspacing would be better. less stuff bolted together=less stuff to loosen. just my opinion. either solution will apply additional force (more leverage) to the wheel bearings and likely make them wear faster. something to consider when selecting how much extra spacing you want.

 

[RingMaster4x4]

you can get just a plate that goes between the wheel and the hub from summit racing

 

[sta500666]

for sure, im getting wheels thrown in for free with the diff's im getting... hopefully they have the right backspacing. Im not too worried about pressure on the axles, I would rather have a potential problem, then a problem like i have now with the rubbing.

 

[BUDDY]

Just adjust the steering stops so that the tire don't turn that full distance.

Look at this picture -

Do you see the shiny brass bolt right in the middle? There should be something similar to that on you're D44. Adjust the one on the passenger side knuckle out a little at a time until when you turn you're wheels lock to lock, you don't hit the pitman arm.

The stops on a D44 or 10-bolt are typically on the back of the knuckle, so look all over it to find it.

Fixed.

This will also prolong you're knuckle u-joint life as well, but it does decrease you're turning radius.

HTH,
Buddy

 

[Mudstud]

Ok I have a question about the pic above. What is this on? I see you have what appears to be total hi-steer but you have a tie rod still in the factory location. The TRE on teh arm can;t come from the passenger side cuz that ain't typically where the gearbox is (Steve Watsons is the exception) What gives? I'm guessin you have full hydro on that axle to get that kinda breakage?

 

[BUDDY]

Ok I have a question about the pic above. What is this on? I see you have what appears to be total hi-steer but you have a tie rod still in the factory location. The TRE on teh arm can;t come from the passenger side cuz that ain't typically where the gearbox is (Steve Watsons is the exception) What gives? I'm guessin you have full hydro on that axle to get that kinda breakage?

I would imagine that the person who owns this has hydro as well, but that & the breakage, (which is quite impressive I must say), is immaterial to his question. I don't know who's truck this is, but I do know that it's a D60 front, with a high steer tie-rod, (& the stock tie-rod ), that I pulled from the gallery here as a reference. Maybe i should've picked a different picture as this one is distracting from the issue at hand.

I was merely pointing out the steering stop, (shiny brass bolt) to try & help sta500666 remedy his rubbing issue.

Later,
Buddy