Well I just pay less in payroll cuz I worked more
CK5
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Trans Am axle help wanted!
- Thread starter southernspeed
- Start date
http://dyeager535.topcities.com/posipictures.html
Second one is what you have, or at least very similar, since those scans are out of a 1981 or so truck manual.
Second one is what you have, or at least very similar, since those scans are out of a 1981 or so truck manual.
dyeager535 said:
I don't suppose you have the rest of that article? I'm intreaged as to how I'm going to get a spring back in that take 300ft/lbs to compress!Thanks though, very helpful.
Good question lol.
Actually, I sat there and beat on that spring for probably 30 minutes at one point after tearing it apart. (carrier out of car)
Dad came over one day, asked him if he thought he could get it in, and he did in less than 5 minutes. It's been awhile, but I think maybe he used some pliers or visegrips to compress a bit, once it started in it was easy to push in the rest of the way.
I can probably ask him if he remembers exactly how he did it, it's not like he had training on it, he just saw an approach that would work that I didn't. If you can't get it easily.
It may take 300ft/lbs, but it has VERY little travel. It's not like it's going to straighten out when you remove it.
Actually, I sat there and beat on that spring for probably 30 minutes at one point after tearing it apart. (carrier out of car)
Dad came over one day, asked him if he thought he could get it in, and he did in less than 5 minutes. It's been awhile, but I think maybe he used some pliers or visegrips to compress a bit, once it started in it was easy to push in the rest of the way.
I can probably ask him if he remembers exactly how he did it, it's not like he had training on it, he just saw an approach that would work that I didn't. If you can't get it easily.
It may take 300ft/lbs, but it has VERY little travel. It's not like it's going to straighten out when you remove it.
OK thanks, I'm sure 'll find a way around it!! Thanks for the info.
Dorian, tell your Dad he's right, it was simple! Maybe you could ask him how long it'll be before I get the use of my fingers back?
Just kidding, compressed it a bit with vice grips and it tapped in easily.
One of the spyder gears has lost some harding off of it's drive face and was hollowed out a bit so I swapped sides, so that it drives on the opposite face. Prob not good practice but I can't locate gears for that.
I was expecting 'clutch meterial' on the face of the posi clutch packs but they're just a kind of machined metal face. Is that right?
Just kidding, compressed it a bit with vice grips and it tapped in easily.
One of the spyder gears has lost some harding off of it's drive face and was hollowed out a bit so I swapped sides, so that it drives on the opposite face. Prob not good practice but I can't locate gears for that.
I was expecting 'clutch meterial' on the face of the posi clutch packs but they're just a kind of machined metal face. Is that right?
If there are no clutches then it's an auburn posi unit. Those are a cone posi unit and don't have clutches and they aren't rebuildable either.
JEBSR
1/2 ton status
southernspeed said:Dorian, tell your Dad he's right, it was simple! Maybe you could ask him how long it'll be before I get the use of my fingers back?
Just kidding, compressed it a bit with vice grips and it tapped in easily.
One of the spyder gears has lost some harding off of it's drive face and was hollowed out a bit so I swapped sides, so that it drives on the opposite face. Prob not good practice but I can't locate gears for that.
I was expecting 'clutch meterial' on the face of the posi clutch packs but they're just a kind of machined metal face. Is that right?
should be one metal then one clutch, one metal then one clutch, etc. If none of them have any clutch material left then they are just shot and need to be replaced.
You guys 100% certain that there is supposed to be an actual clutch surface like you are used to seeing with auto trans and manual trans?
IIRC, the machined steel faces ARE the friction surfaces on at least the GM type flat plate clutches. I've had a couple of mine apart, don't recall ever seeing any "clutch material", and yes, they worked.
Certainly never seen any in pieces at the bottom of the housing.
Here's something I found at randy's ring and pinion:
"There are currently four different clutch plate designs available, three of which are worth considering. We will begin with GM's service pack which uses 18 all-steel clutches with cut-outs for oil. These clutches tend to chatter, and the cut-outs that are supposed to decrease chatter make the plates weak and prone to breakage. The new 14-plate carbon fiber clutches from Eaton are my favorite."
IIRC, the machined steel faces ARE the friction surfaces on at least the GM type flat plate clutches. I've had a couple of mine apart, don't recall ever seeing any "clutch material", and yes, they worked.
Certainly never seen any in pieces at the bottom of the housing.
Here's something I found at randy's ring and pinion:
"There are currently four different clutch plate designs available, three of which are worth considering. We will begin with GM's service pack which uses 18 all-steel clutches with cut-outs for oil. These clutches tend to chatter, and the cut-outs that are supposed to decrease chatter make the plates weak and prone to breakage. The new 14-plate carbon fiber clutches from Eaton are my favorite."
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There's no cut outs as such, the surface is like a course 'machine turned' look, kind of like little swirls. There's certainly no bluing or scoring on them.
