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Transfer Case 101 for a newbie

You still have 5 positions, the loc positions put power to the front driveshaft and you would need to lock the hubs in order to have 4 wheel drive.

Since you don't have more detent positions and your videos show that your linkage to the range section isn't getting full movement, I still say that your shifter has a problem. It doesn't seem like you are getting neutral or low range.


Thanks... ive searched and searched for pictures and video showing shift positions, shift lever, linkage etc.
Nothing really useful.

Sure would help if anyone here had the conversion kit like mine and could chime in, with pictures of where there shifter is in relation to the gear its in, up top and on the Tcase. But i doubt that will happen. We’ve been chatting for a few days with little input from others.

Before I start pulling linkage and taking it all apart. I’d rather have a clear sense of my issue rather than just chasing ghosts and hoping it fixes it. Im not positive, but it seems that way, the Linkage must be misaligned.

My eyes are blurred from searching online. Ive messaged people on Instagram as well for some input, nothing. Hahahahaha....
Oh well.
I do appreciate all your help and suggestions.
 
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This is the knob in mine, i have the part time kit
Hi loc is high range 4x4
Hi is 2wd
Lo is 2wd low range
Low lock is 4x4 low range
My shifter never goes towards firewall unless im wheeling

You need to check the shifter adj and get it to factory spec, don't know if it's possible, but sounds like someone had it off, then put it on with shifter input shaft clocked wrong

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I am sorry I didn't see this earlier but the 203 shifter is a complicated mechanism and one adjustment is very important for it to work properly.
You need to put the shifter in neutral disconnect the rods off the bracket coming out of the tcase, lign up the brackets and stick a pin in the hole to keep them together aligned and adjust the rods to fit on the brackets.
Once that is done it will shift smoothly into all five positions
 
This is the knob in mine, i have the part time kit
Hi loc is high range 4x4
Hi is 2wd
Lo is 2wd low range
Low lock is 4x4 low range
My shifter never goes towards firewall unless im wheeling

You need to check the shifter adj and get it to factory spec, don't know if it's possible, but sounds like someone had it off, then put it on with shifter input shaft clocked wrong

View attachment 319163

View attachment 319164

View attachment 319165

Thanks. When I bought the truck and ever since, the shifter has been as shown in my pic on page 1. Towards the fire wall, this position lets the front drive shaft spin by hand. If I put shifter towards me, both drive shafts cannot by spun by hand, one click forward fron there both cannot be spun by hand.I

I feel 4 detents... as shown in my videos...

Ill mess with it and take video.
Thankd again
 
I am sorry I didn't see this earlier but the 203 shifter is a complicated mechanism and one adjustment is very important for it to work properly.
You need to put the shifter in neutral disconnect the rods off the bracket coming out of the tcase, lign up the brackets and stick a pin in the hole to keep them together aligned and adjust the rods to fit on the brackets.
Once that is done it will shift smoothly into all five positions[/QUOTE

Since the linkage appears to be misaligned, how will I know when I have the Tcase in nuetral, with the truck off?
 
Good luck, hope it works out
Looks like t case needs to be in neutral when assembled and adjusted
If someone put it on when it was in another position, the whole range would be shifted
 
Put the transmission in Park, hubs unlocked, the transfer case is in neutral when both front and rear driveshafts will turn by hand. Of course, since I assume the rear is still hooked up, you can test everything by turning the front by hand, and then seeing if the truck will roll with the tranny in park.

I found a couple of good sites concerning the shifter last night, one showing how to rebuild it. But I lost internet connection before I could post them here.
I'm going to go through my history and see if I can find them again.
Due to the way a 203 shifts, its a fairly complicated shifter compared to others like a 205. And can get out of adjustment.

Hang on, if I can keep the connection, I'll be back.
 
Found it!
I

http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=27288.0

The shifter is so complicated, because of the way it has to move the shift rods. As I mentioned in an earlier post, when starting with the shifter in Hi Loc, all the way back to the seat, the first detent up moves the loc/unloc rod only. Then the next two detents move the range rod only, and the last detent, all the way forward, moves the loc rod again.
So the shifter has to know when and what to move.
It sounds to me like either someone "rebuilt" your shifter and screwed it up, or it is way out of adjustment.
Given your responses, it sounds like you are going from Hi Loc to Neutral only and never reaching the Lo section.
If so, it may just be an adjustment. It needs to be done correctly, of course, but you might just try pulling the shift lever all the way back towards the seat. Watch to see what causes it to stop and not go any farther. Should be one or both of the shift rods. Then adjust the shift rods so the lever can move farther back.
This will give you more distance toward the Lo range.

Hope this helps
 
One other comment. I'm running a 205 in my Ford, and while I have often considered twin-sticking it, for the type of off road driving I do, it doesn't really give me any advantage. The stock shifter is dead simple, and mud does not care about using different gears in front and rear.
Which, you would not get in a 203 anyway.
.
But twin-sticking a 203 should solve a lot of problems. It makes the shifter system much simpler, and almost duplicates the old Jeep pattern which is what I grew up on.
Look at the shift pattern plate that comes with that kit. If you have the conversion, then one lever simply shifts between 4wheel or 2wheel, and the other shifts from Hi to Neutral to Lo.
If you didn't have the conversion, then the 2wheel to 4wheel shifts in and out of Loc.

I would get what you have working first to verify if its converted or not, and to make sure the transfer case is working properly. Then consider the twin stick.

As for adjusting it, Neutral on the shifter is when both levers are vertical. Putting the 11/64 drill bit through the two holes only verifies that they are in neutral, and holds the levers in place while you adjust the rods.
So, if you can get the case in neutral for sure, then pull the cotter pins and remove the shift rods from the shifter. move the shift lever until the levers are vertical and adjust the rods until they fit and you should be in business.
 
I took a video and risked getting it out gear. Now you can see all the way forward I cannot get the Tcase shifter, I did a couple times while on the phone but couldnt duplicate it here. I was able to get the Tcase shift damn near to the ground shifting towards the firewall. But shifting back towards driver the gears were all in different places.

Something aint right gentleman. Hahahahahahah

You can hopefully hear the grinding sound and me, no matter where I put the Tcase the truck will not move.

Truck is loud so hopefully you can hear me?

 
That is the sound of a very unhappy parking pawl in the transmission. Your transfer case is in neutral, assuming the rear drive shaft is hooked up.
As a result, the transmission output is spinning when you take it out of park, and since there is no load on it from the rest of the drivetrain, there is nothing to stop the spinning when you take the transmission out of gear.
So when you move the lever to park, the transmission tries to engage an immovable part with a spinning part.
This is why, if you ever shift out of park with the engine running and the transfer case out of gear, you Must turn the engine off and let it stop before putting the gearshift into park.

I could not tell for sure, was there any grinding noise when the transmission was in drive and you shifted the transfer case? If so, you may be able to lock the front hubs, and have the truck drive off in one detent or another. If you want to try, I would lock the hubs, make sure you cannot turn the front driveshaft by hand, pull the lever all the way back, then try cranking the truck and putting it in drive.
If nothing happens, turn off the engine before putting it back in park.

I'm thinking you may have problems inside the transfer case. If the part time kit was installed wrong, or had a failure, you may only have front wheel drive.
 
That is the sound of a very unhappy parking pawl in the transmission. Your transfer case is in neutral, assuming the rear drive shaft is hooked up.
As a result, the transmission output is spinning when you take it out of park, and since there is no load on it from the rest of the drivetrain, there is nothing to stop the spinning when you take the transmission out of gear.
So when you move the lever to park, the transmission tries to engage an immovable part with a spinning part.
This is why, if you ever shift out of park with the engine running and the transfer case out of gear, you Must turn the engine off and let it stop before putting the gearshift into park.

I could not tell for sure, was there any grinding noise when the transmission was in drive and you shifted the transfer case? If so, you may be able to lock the front hubs, and have the truck drive off in one detent or another. If you want to try, I would lock the hubs, make sure you cannot turn the front driveshaft by hand, pull the lever all the way back, then try cranking the truck and putting it in drive.
If nothing happens, turn off the engine before putting it back in park.

I'm thinking you may have problems inside the transfer case. If the part time kit was installed wrong, or had a failure, you may only have front wheel drive.

Thats whats makes shutting it off somewhat difficult, or confusing I have no idea what gear the Tcase is in. But Next time I mess with it, I will shut the truck off then put it in park.

Its all out of whack at this point. The truck will not even drive no matter what gear I put the transmission in. The Tcase is in detents now, that would let it move before, now they don't.

Im going to drain it tomorrow re fill it. Try shifting again. But I think at this point it needs to come out and be rebuilt or replaced with a converted np203 or just save up amd convert it np205

Further, it was in a detent that prevented both drive shafts from spinning. So I rotated it a few times and was able to break free the front drive shaft by hand. Rear drive shaft has remained unmovable by hand no matter Tcase detent

I will try locking the hubs tomorrow and see what happens. I haven’t check the oil, could this happen being dry or low on oil in the Tcase

And yes at one point I tried getting the Tcase shifter all the towards driver seat while truck was in D there was a slight grind
 
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Don't forget, if the rear driveshaft is hooked up on both ends, you are not going to turn it if the wheels are on the ground. Unless you are strong enough to drive the truck by hand.......
If you haven't yet, lock the hubs. First, to make sure something else doesn't creep in, find a setting where you can turn the front drive, lock the hubs, and try to turn it again.
We want to make sure the hubs are actually locked. Also, if you turn the hubs, and then the front driveshaft continues to turn for a second then suddenly locks with or without a clunking noise, it just means that the hub gears were not lined up and they engaged when you turned the shaft.
Once you know the hubs are locked, put it in the detent where it used to move and try again. I suspect that your rear drive is not working.
There is nothing really wrong with a 203, they are very strong, especially after being converted. Their weak point is the big chain inside that will eventually stretch. But, with the conversion, it does not run nearly as much, so last much much longer before needing to be replaced.
The 205 is my personal preference, but be sure to check with the folks here before trying to swap it. There are a couple things about which model to get you need to know.
I run Fords, so I'm no good on that part.
 
Don't forget, if the rear driveshaft is hooked up on both ends, you are not going to turn it if the wheels are on the ground. Unless you are strong enough to drive the truck by hand.......
If you haven't yet, lock the hubs. First, to make sure something else doesn't creep in, find a setting where you can turn the front drive, lock the hubs, and try to turn it again.
We want to make sure the hubs are actually locked. Also, if you turn the hubs, and then the front driveshaft continues to turn for a second then suddenly locks with or without a clunking noise, it just means that the hub gears were not lined up and they engaged when you turned the shaft.
Once you know the hubs are locked, put it in the detent where it used to move and try again. I suspect that your rear drive is not working.
There is nothing really wrong with a 203, they are very strong, especially after being converted. Their weak point is the big chain inside that will eventually stretch. But, with the conversion, it does not run nearly as much, so last much much longer before needing to be replaced.
The 205 is my personal preference, but be sure to check with the folks here before trying to swap it. There are a couple things about which model to get you need to know.
I run Fords, so I'm no good on that part.


Will do this tomorrow and upload a video. Just my luck I had it in a gear that moved the truck. But I shifted the Tcase to see where I was and now I cant move. Thats is the video I put up. Hahahaha.

I thank you for taking the time to explain this and offer suggestions to help me get out of being stuck. Glad this happened in my garage and not in the desert.
 
I don't want to be a bossy d!ck, but please unhook the linkages off of that forkin' shifter!! Then pull the outer lever on the transfer case towards the front of the truck. I honestly believe that something is jacked in the shifter!

You should then be able to select high range with the outer lever pulled forward, leaving the front output unlocked with the other lever backwards, (straight down) . This will make the truck move if it has a functioning part time kit in the T-case.
 
I don't want to be a bossy d!ck, but please unhook the linkages off of that forkin' shifter!! Then pull the outer lever on the transfer case towards the front of the truck. I honestly believe that something is jacked in the shifter!

You should then be able to select high range with the outer lever pulled forward, leaving the front output unlocked with the other lever backwards, (straight down) . This will make the truck move if it has a functioning part time kit in the T-case.

Lol nah man you’re good.... That is on my list tomorrow. I just wanted to mess with this aspect today and just see what happens? The shifter did engage and damn near touched the floor towards the fire wall. Then got all wonky going back to the driver seat. Then it seemed to go back where its been. But then no gear in the Tcase would let the truck move.
 
Ok, so since I forgot to do this earlier, here is what mine looks like in high range, then low range. This is the lever for the 203 section of my doubler. Pay attention to the angle of the lever on the side of the case.

You may only have shifter problems, hopefully.

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Just in case, remember he said "doubler". You do not have the third lever.
Not sure if you knew what that meant, and did not want you to wonder where the heck your third arm is....

Oh, and just in case, a doubler is a 203 with the rear end removed, and a 205 with the front end removed bolted onto the back end of the 203.

It lets you have a much much lower low range than either of them by themselves. Not something you would ever see in my neck of the woods.
Great for rock climbing, but around here, we don't have tall rocks, just deep mud. And if you put your truck in double low when buried 3/4 of the way to the frame in "gumbo" mud, its just going to sit there and make mud pies........
 
Since the linkage appears to be misaligned, how will I know when I have the Tcase in nuetral, with the truck off?
Well you put it almost vertically little forward and disconnect the rods and put the brackets straight down that would be neutral.
The shifter should have a detent and should hold on neutral so if you are close enough and linkage is disconnected you'll find it.
At this point you adjust the linkage to hook up to the bracket.
To make it easier you could just disconnect one and adjust to make the brackets lign up when in neutral.
I think your last post show that you were not able to get to low gear because of the adjustment.
Low loc is almost laying down forward.
 
Well you put it almost vertically little forward and disconnect the rods and put the brackets straight down that would be neutral.
The shifter should have a detent and should hold on neutral so if you are close enough and linkage is disconnected you'll find it.
At this point you adjust the linkage to hook up to the bracket.
To make it easier you could just disconnect one and adjust to make the brackets lign up when in neutral.
I think your last post show that you were not able to get to low gear because of the adjustment.
Low loc is almost laying down forward.

Yesterday for whatever reason I was able to get the Tcase basically almost laying down towards the dash. Once I pulled it back, I couldn’t get it to do it gain. Thats when all the gears seemed off. And no matter where I put the Tcasr shifter, the truck would not move Forward or Reverse.

You saying Tcase shifter needs to be close to laying down this still applies with the Tcase being part time now?

If so, this gives me a vision of how the Tcase shifter should look when Lo loc engages. I had a hunch I was in low based on detent . And every gear going to the driver seat engaged.
Thanks that clears a lot up.

I searched for images of this Tcase in each gear and pictures of it, couldn’t find it.
 
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