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Transfer Case 101 for a newbie
- Thread starter TJ1978
- Start date
Right, everything engages by hand. The test will be if i can it to move.
So what would be happening if all gears are present in the Tcase but the truck wont move?
I checked to see if any fluid was in the Tcaseand it looks like mud. Im thinking I should change that, yes?
Yep, you should change it, but lets get it moving first. I would put the inner rod all the way back, the outer rod all the way forward, and the hubs locked.
Then it should drive off. If not, then leave the outer rod out, and pull out the inner. If it does not drive off either way, then we have problems. But, I'm betting it will.
Once we get it moving, we will do a couple of other tests to see what is what.
That kinda wimpy detent of the outer rod, the first one from all the way back or front should be neutral. We want to leave it out of there for now. No problem with shifting through it, just don't expect the truck to move with it there.
Then it should drive off. If not, then leave the outer rod out, and pull out the inner. If it does not drive off either way, then we have problems. But, I'm betting it will.
Once we get it moving, we will do a couple of other tests to see what is what.
That kinda wimpy detent of the outer rod, the first one from all the way back or front should be neutral. We want to leave it out of there for now. No problem with shifting through it, just don't expect the truck to move with it there.
Ok, will do that tomorrow. I have to tap out for today as far as truck work. Wife is heading to work and Ive got dinner to make for three little-ish ones.
I will add that with the linkage unhooked the shifter does not give any sign of binding. But Im going to clean it again with brake clean. Even more odd is that one time I got the shifter to almost touch the floor going towards the dash. Now with all the linkage off, I cannot duplicate that either..
hahahahaha. I swear, I have the worst luck with these damn trucks. I see people post pics of driving, having fun. I have yet to accomplish that. I know theyre old with unknown (usually) history but damn.
Thanks again.
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So something doesn't look right.
The outside shifter should be able to go from neutral where it is aligned with the inside shifter up and down.
It looks in the video as if it doesn't go past going down is that an optical illusion?
And tighten the nut on the brackets, they shouldn't move like that sideways
The shifter goes from parallel to the inside to one detent forward then another forward. I cannot get it to go towards the rear of the truck, if thats what you’re asking? Check np203-8 vid
The outer link will only go parallel to the inner link. I cannot get it to past it, pushes towards the rear of the truck
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It's supposed to go both ways.
I wonder if gears are not lined up and can't engage.
Tried to twist the back driveshaft back and forth while someone is trying to shift?
It looked like he was getting three positions out of the range lever. I certainly don't remember, if I ever knew, what position the levers are supposed to be.
Although, the rear position might just be it stopping instead of going into a gear. It sounded like it was going into a gear, but obviously we can't feel what it feels like when it goes there.
Even if its not going all the way back, he seems to be going all the way forward, so the truck should move in low range, right?
I keep having a suspicion that the rear output has a problem. Which is why I said engage the hubs. It should drive with the hubs engaged regardless if the rear is working. If its stock instead of converted, then it would not drive if the rear is munched, but then he should be able to shift it into loc and it would drive.
Heck, I'm running off partially remembered memories from 30 years ago. You are way more knowledgeable than I am. I don't think I have even so much as ridden in a 203 driven truck in over 20 years. Much less worked on one.
Although, the rear position might just be it stopping instead of going into a gear. It sounded like it was going into a gear, but obviously we can't feel what it feels like when it goes there.
Even if its not going all the way back, he seems to be going all the way forward, so the truck should move in low range, right?
I keep having a suspicion that the rear output has a problem. Which is why I said engage the hubs. It should drive with the hubs engaged regardless if the rear is working. If its stock instead of converted, then it would not drive if the rear is munched, but then he should be able to shift it into loc and it would drive.
Heck, I'm running off partially remembered memories from 30 years ago. You are way more knowledgeable than I am. I don't think I have even so much as ridden in a 203 driven truck in over 20 years. Much less worked on one.
This morning I went to see about the Transmission gears if there is an issue there. Park works, I put it in what is supposed to be neutral and was able to push the truck forward and back about a 1 foot, wheel chalks prevent more movement.
After that, I tried moving the rear drive shaft, and usually you get like 1/4 turn or so. Now it will not move at all, like its locked. I hooked up the outer linkage to the Tcase shifter, because I cannot move by hand today, like I could yesterday. The rear drive shaft will not budge, frontspins freely.
Seems to me all the gears are out of what from Tcase to tranny to my damn forking brain trying to fix this. If I had the money I would just buy a new transmission and transfer case. Then take the existing ones to the desert for target practice.
After that, I tried moving the rear drive shaft, and usually you get like 1/4 turn or so. Now it will not move at all, like its locked. I hooked up the outer linkage to the Tcase shifter, because I cannot move by hand today, like I could yesterday. The rear drive shaft will not budge, frontspins freely.
Seems to me all the gears are out of what from Tcase to tranny to my damn forking brain trying to fix this. If I had the money I would just buy a new transmission and transfer case. Then take the existing ones to the desert for target practice.
Did you try to move it now?
It seems the rear is engaged in something
Ok, i went out put it in neutral, rocked it back and forth to get movement in the driveshaft.
Went to mess with the Tcase and it went forward, I assume this is LO LOC or rather 4x4 low since I have the part time kit.
When it went into this position that one time, after that I couldnt get the truck to move, while running in any gear, D R Inner linkage is still not hooked back up.
Now the outer linkage is where you said it should be with shifter to floor towards dash. This column was in Neutral when this happened. Cant fire it up just yet. Wife works graveyards, th truck vibrates the house
Front drive shaft cannot be spun by hand, with Tcase in this position and truck in P. HUBS are unlocked at this point.
Last night I sprayed a nice healthy dose of PBblaster in the shifter and that rod thing where the linkage rotates. Doubt it did anything but maybe
View attachment 319359
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Took the tranny cover insid the cab and took video.
Video of tranny gears:
Im going get an NP203 from 74” blazer w/TH350 as mine, with part-time kit tomorrow for cheap. So incase the one I have now is pooped Ill have another. If my present one ends up working. Ill have a spare.
I still dont get why the truck wont move. Ill fire it up again tomorrow and see.
Video of tranny gears:
Im going get an NP203 from 74” blazer w/TH350 as mine, with part-time kit tomorrow for cheap. So incase the one I have now is pooped Ill have another. If my present one ends up working. Ill have a spare.
I still dont get why the truck wont move. Ill fire it up again tomorrow and see.
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Be warned, a 203 is a heavy object. So be prepared. I want to say its in the 200 lb range, but some lucky souls online here who have had the joy of lifting one into position from underneath can give you a more accurate weight.
I think the fact that you were unable to shift it earlier is a good thing. As you will learn when you get it running, there are times when you cannot shift one.
If there is a load on the gears, they will bind and you can't shift them. For instance, if you were in park, with the transfer case in gear, and the truck was trying to roll for some reason.
On a slope, or even up on a chock or something like that, there is enough load on the gears you cannot shift them. In that case, shifting the transmission into neutral will relieve the pressure and let you shift.
The fact that yours was bound up in park, causes me to think the drivetrain is good.
I assume you have checked the automatic transmission fluid. It should be up to operating temp, while idling in park for an accurate check, but just idling cold it should have a good amount on the stick. It will read low if its cold, but still with have some showing.
If the stick is dry, then you might not have enough for the transmission to operate.
I think the fact that you were unable to shift it earlier is a good thing. As you will learn when you get it running, there are times when you cannot shift one.
If there is a load on the gears, they will bind and you can't shift them. For instance, if you were in park, with the transfer case in gear, and the truck was trying to roll for some reason.
On a slope, or even up on a chock or something like that, there is enough load on the gears you cannot shift them. In that case, shifting the transmission into neutral will relieve the pressure and let you shift.
The fact that yours was bound up in park, causes me to think the drivetrain is good.
I assume you have checked the automatic transmission fluid. It should be up to operating temp, while idling in park for an accurate check, but just idling cold it should have a good amount on the stick. It will read low if its cold, but still with have some showing.
If the stick is dry, then you might not have enough for the transmission to operate.
Fluid is fine. My tranny pan leaks but its full and has been during this entire process. Something isnt right. Gears are synching it seems sometimes then not others. I’ve about had it but Ill see this through.
You can see in the video here in neutral the 2 brackets don't line up perfectly and the brackets wobble a lot.
Is the nut holding them in loose or is the slot worn out?
It needs to be tight and lined up to shift smooth.
I still don't see why it doesn't move.
If you can't turn the driveshafts it means it should move when the engine is running, unless maybe the torque converter is disconnected, lost the bolts?
Ill check again tomorrow and tighten that nut (if its possible) after I get back from picking up the other transfer case.
They flop around at least the inner one does.
Torque converter is good as far as I can tell. No bolts on the garage floor. Hahah
That nut the screws the linkage down, I got about 1/2 maybe 3/4 tighter. I sprayed a liberal amount of PBbkaster down the shifter shaft, also that piece the linkage turn on. It seems smoother. So we’ll see tomorrow if I can get it moving.
If I do, this Tcase sure doesnt give me much confidence it will be ablt to drive safely or whatever...
I appreciate those who have stuck with this thread, also those who tapped out early. Those who stuck around, seriously, thanks. Fingers crossed.
Then Ill start another mammoth thread to install the new NP203
If I do, this Tcase sure doesnt give me much confidence it will be ablt to drive safely or whatever...
I appreciate those who have stuck with this thread, also those who tapped out early. Those who stuck around, seriously, thanks. Fingers crossed.
Then Ill start another mammoth thread to install the new NP203
Holy f... just went and got the spare np203. Boy howdy are these things heavy...
The linkage has no play compared to the one in the truck now. Shifts feel firm and clean. The outer Hi N Lo inner 4wd 2wd.
Hopefully thats a good sign?
The linkage has no play compared to the one in the truck now. Shifts feel firm and clean. The outer Hi N Lo inner 4wd 2wd.
Hopefully thats a good sign?
Told you it was a beast.
Just wait until you are underneath trying to bench press it into place......
And yes, some folks here have let the one down on their chest, repaired it, then lifted it into place by hand.
However, there are a couple of better ways to do it.
A floor jack, or better yet a transmission jack from underneath, or a bar and strap from overhead with the transmission hump cover off.
I would seriously consider doing the conversion on the new one and maybe adding the twin stick while you have it out. Heck, if you get the twin stick first, I would try it on the one you have before pulling it out.
Either way, now that you know what to look for, maybe you can spot the problem with the linkage on the one in the truck.
Just wait until you are underneath trying to bench press it into place......
And yes, some folks here have let the one down on their chest, repaired it, then lifted it into place by hand.
However, there are a couple of better ways to do it.
A floor jack, or better yet a transmission jack from underneath, or a bar and strap from overhead with the transmission hump cover off.
I would seriously consider doing the conversion on the new one and maybe adding the twin stick while you have it out. Heck, if you get the twin stick first, I would try it on the one you have before pulling it out.
Either way, now that you know what to look for, maybe you can spot the problem with the linkage on the one in the truck.
The shifter that came with the one I just got a some Hurst shifter, needs cleaning.
I am going to get the ORD twin stick. Its $185, plus new tranny mounts if possible. But Im a bit tapped for $...
Gives me time to drop the tranny pan and fix up that leak.
Who knows maybe my present set will just work again. Im just not to trusting of its reliability after all this. If I go drive and some weirdness takes place and I cant move again.
This one already has the part-time conversion according to the seller.
Also, Im going to fire it up tomorrow, see if it will move.
Should I have the hubs locked and go Hi, or what Tcase gear?
