Truck avenger guru's...?

[rob h]

For the vac 8 is about right for the cam with the duration, no vac leak. I thought it had one also until i looked for hours and didnt find one and took it to the performance shop and he said its about right. I dont have the cam card here with me to really say what it is. All i can remember is 515 and solid comp cams. Ill try the 35 shooter this week and see what it does. Since i messed with it tho it seems to work real well so far. I also called the guy at the engine shop yesterday and he said to set the idle with that cam from 9-1000. he knows more than i do.....lol.

 

[folkenheath]

At 1000 it has 8 lbs of vac, not too good. Dual plane rpm air gap intake. For now i have just the 31 nozzle installed. The ignition ,i have a mallory unilite set at 32 degrees in by 3 k, I mite turn it down to 28 or so to see what happens.

What's your compression?

I wouldn't turn it down I would turn it up, 34 or 36 in by 3k, with vacuum advance disconnected, then reconnect it after you get done setting the timing. The highest you can set it without detonation, the more efficient it will be. Also, make sure you have your vacuum advance hooked up to manifold vacuum (unless you are trying to pass an emmisions test). It was designed for manifold vacuum and it will help your idle be more consitent and produce more vacuum at idle if the vacuum advance is on. You want around 52 degrees total advance at cruise RPMs when the vacuum advance and the mechanical advance are both on. Also, make sure your vacuum can is all in at idle, you don't want a vacuum can bouncing timing around at idle because of the varying vacuum with your cam.

Did you adjust the idle A/F ratio for max engine vacuum at idle? That will help too. You may have to radjust idle RPM after that, and you will need to readjust this if you change the timing. With that cam it's going to want more fuel and timing to work correctly most likely.

 

[rob h]

12.5:1 with my angle plug bowtie heads with 2.055 valves. I could bump it up to 34-36 i guess.

 

[folkenheath]

12.5:1 with my angle plug bowtie heads with 2.055 valves. I could bump it up to 34-36 i guess.

110 octane race fuel I take it? I am not aware of any parts to make the TA work with E85.

To be honest, if you have a cam large enough you only have 8 inches of vacuum at idle, and you have 12.5:1 compression and bowtie heads, the TA carb is not for your engine. It'll probably come alive if you put a 750 double pumper on there.

 

[rob h]

Had the double pumper 750 and what a pain in the azz, it runs better with the 670. Maybe it was the jetting or something, ill try to make it work. A friend of mine is good with carbs and has some fast cars, ill see what he can do when i can get his time. Yea race fuel, i buy 117 in 5 gallon cans and mix it with 93, Seems to save on just buying 105 or 108.

 

[folkenheath]

Had the double pumper 750 and what a pain in the azz, it runs better with the 670. Maybe it was the jetting or something, ill try to make it work. A friend of mine is good with carbs and has some fast cars, ill see what he can do when i can get his time. Yea race fuel, i buy 117 in 5 gallon cans and mix it with 93, Seems to save on just buying 105 or 108.

Then there was something wrong with the double pumper. Probably needs a rebuild and a once over, something is not right there. Rebuild kit would cost $40 if you know someone to show you how to do it. I gaurantee you that DP will make more power and be more responsive than the TA, if they are both tuned right. The double pumper won't idle right on a steep hill though. If the DP looks like new or something then it could still have a piece of dirt get in the needle and seat or the accelerator pump system and could make it act funny real easy. They are very simple inside. The double pumper should have a pink cam front and rear factory. And return the jets and pump nozzles to the stock listing for that carb number to start out with.

 

[rob h]

The dp was brand new, it had a real bad hesitation. It was adjusted, jetted , the power valve changed to vac. It ran ok but had a surge, one day it idled fine the next it didnt at all. Its long gone, gota do what i can with the ta, the plugs look perfect and the oil is nice and clean, so far so good. The dp was terrible offroad, it was good at high rpms in the mud and on the road but im not really after that.

 

[folkenheath]

The dp was brand new, it had a real bad hesitation. It was adjusted, jetted , the power valve changed to vac. It ran ok but had a surge, one day it idled fine the next it didnt at all. Its long gone, gota do what i can with the ta, the plugs look perfect and the oil is nice and clean, so far so good. The dp was terrible offroad, it was good at high rpms in the mud and on the road but im not really after that.

Well I hope you can make it work to your satisfaction because some of the pieces are mismatched for the combo.

One other thing that can cause problems with inconsistent idle and hesitations could be the throttle blades aren't in the right position. And with your cam and compression I can believe you may need to have the blades a little too far open to idle right. It has to do with the exposure of the transfer slot.

The side hung floats are better for angles than the center hung.

 

[rob h]

I guess ill just see what mu friend could do with it i guess...