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Truck tailgate on Blazer

TJ1978

I have MANY questions
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A bit of leapfrogging on this page. I recently purchased a used truck tailgate for my blazer after reading this Thread

Im in the process of figuring out which way I want to go, either soft top or using a camper shell rear glass (which is not easy to locate at all) or some sort of see-through plexiglass on a hinge bolted to the K5 shell as a rear window.

I want to go soft top, and even though my truck can easily be broken into as is, just roll the rear window down. Im leery of the soft tops more visible ease of entry for theft. Not that a camper shell rear or plexi would provide any added security. Visually the soft makes it an easier target, in my opinion.

I have an all mechanical truck, fuel and manual roll down windows. So a theft deterrent is what I'm after. Other than taking the battery out of the truck while it's parked. I do use a heavy duty chain around the break pedal to steering wheel.

So, best theft deterrent recommendations...


Truck tailgate below. Im in AZ so I can go soft top year round

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Kill switch between positive terminal and starter. They make ones that use a RF clicker.

That will prevent the truck from starting long enough to deter most thieves.

But if they really want the truck, they will just show up with a tow dolly and take it.

As for items inside the truck. Just don't leave stuff in it you don't want stolen.
 
Nothing is in the truck. Can you link an example of that kill switch?

Yeah I know if they want it they'll get it but..I mean for like local errands and such I usually have my other car parked behind it in the driveway
 
I rigged up a couple of hidden in plain site kill switches on mine that I hope will work. I don't drive it regularly, I just wanted something for when it's at an off road park, etc.

My wife has a Jeep with a soft top, she just knows to never lock the doors/tailgate and never leave anything in it that's valuable. Knock on wood, she's had it since '06 and it's only been rifled through once (it does stay in a garage at night).
 
CAn you link the kill switches that would work on my truck? They all look the same to me and I'm it sure which ones would be best used on my '78 k5
 
When I went rafting for a couple days back in march I had to leave the suburban at the boat ramp while we were on the river. Parked it close to the ranger station and took the rotor with me. Not convenient for day to day but it sure wont run without the rotor. Everything looks hooked up too.
 
A bit of leapfrogging on this page. I recently purchased a used truck tailgate for my blazer after reading this Thread

Im in the process of figuring out which way I want to go, either soft top or using a camper shell rear glass (which is not easy to locate at all) or some sort of see-through plexiglass on a hinge bolted to the K5 shell as a rear window.

I want to go soft top, and even though my truck can easily be broken into as is, just roll the rear window down. Im leery of the soft tops more visible ease of entry for theft. Not that a camper shell rear or plexi would provide any added security. Visually the soft makes it an easier target, in my opinion.

I have an all mechanical truck, fuel and manual roll down windows. So a theft deterrent is what I'm after. Other than taking the battery out of the truck while it's parked. I do use a heavy duty chain around the break pedal to steering wheel.

So, best theft deterrent recommendations...


Truck tailgate below. Im in AZ so I can go soft top year round

View attachment 446421

View attachment 446422

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View attachment 446428

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I run a p.u gate gifted to me by our very own Avery.... :bow::bow::bow:

it was a mint white soCal unit, stripped it and reshot.... I run an older Fastrac top... think I got all the hinge stuff from LMC, or one of them..




full
 
For those of us with manual transmissions and clutch interlock switches, you have a built-in kill switch right there. Mine has been disconnected from the clutch pedal for years so I could start it in gear, but when I need security mode I just have to push in the lever up under the dash. For the rest of the time it stays extended out all the way.
 
Well, there is this from a thread i started and forgot about. With what's stated in the image, having the soft or hard top won't make much difference if they want the truck and know them well enough. To me, the soft top just appears easier to get into. So a kill switch does nothing.

When parked for extended periods I could take the battery out. I doubt a thief strolling by would be carrying a car battery.

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You could cut in to the neutral safety switch or ignition circuit and run it through another switch that doesn’t draw attention.

For instance, you are switching to a truck gate which will leave you with an unused power rear window switch (if equipped, if not get the switch bezel). The factory switch is a momentary type switch, find a on/off rocker switch that fits the bezel and wire the chosen circuit to the rocker switch. Now you have a kill switch labeled “rear window” and you don’t have to obviously touch it every time you crank the truck.
 
I’ve done two different style of kill switch. Both work well with non computerized vehicles. First one is a boat/race car battery cut off switch hidden behind the bumper. You can use the kind with a key to make it a little more secure. I like this for things that don’t get driven often. Helps keep the battery from draining. The other is to put a switch in series with your ignition switch. If you mount the switch inside the glove box you can lock the glove box.

Some other options are tapping into the neutral safety switch, removing the coil wire if you don’t have HEI, removing the fuel pump fuse/relay if you have an electric fuel pump, and steel collar that locks over your steering column. Anything that attaches to the steering wheel is defeated cutting the steering wheel with a pair of bolt cutters.

Unfortunately, when driving something like this you kind of have to accept that it may be stolen. They are just too easy to start. The only thing in our favor right now is that Kia is currently the favorite joyride option thanks to tic-tok.
 
This stuff is pricey as well.
Need about 60 inches length by 20-22 inches height. Then I can cut to fit and get a hinge type thing.

Just an option

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Maybe these struts, I wonder what I could use for a border around the plexi to hardtop seal type thing. Some rubber stripping or rubber adhesive type stuff something.

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Well here’s mine. If you can find me you know my secrets. HaHa.

Battery switch. In line with power wire to fuse panel. So when off nothing works. Starter has power but nothing else. Has added bonus of when push down and turn another 1/4 turn past off the handle can be removed making it very difficult to turn back on.
ONBDEFA44A-6697-449D-BC85-B9C284B04DFF.jpeg
OFF
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Key out
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Well here’s mine. If you can find me you know my secrets. HaHa.

Battery switch. In line with power wire to fuse panel. So when off nothing works. Starter has power but nothing else. Has added bonus of when push down and turn another 1/4 turn past off the handle can be removed making it very difficult to turn back on.
ONView attachment 446528
OFF
View attachment 446530
Key out
View attachment 446531
I like that switch better than mine. I have the old Hella with the red “key”.
 
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