CK5
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Trussing your axles 101

I always wonder about your 12 bolt,at the speeds you go and the jumps... do you ever worry about a failed c clip and loosing an axle.

Or do you got a fix for that??
Disc brakes are better than nothing. At least the wheel won't come off. Another fix would be to just not worry...
 
That upper rod is really unnessecary.. your never going to bend it the other way.. the lower rod is plenty strong for what your doing, sleeved tubes and welding them were probally enough.

Remember the axle is only under compression so you really need only to mitigate that force. I think its funny when some guys go absolutly nuts on trusses when its really no need if designed properly.. one thing almost noone considers is the force to the rear that can kill it also.. hence the rear of 9in trophy axles are trussed across the cover..


Check out the last axle its not trussed at all up top.. only reason for that is if it had links..
I think you did it right.
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OK I'm back. I keep forgetting about all these pesky threads I've started:whistle: Rear is holding up fine 12 bolt and all(Blue85 hit it on the head, Just not worry) Well on to the front D44(See pics)Yep it bent "Old school" Hickey style truss and all. So we went to town and made it match the rear

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Looks good. Did you straighten it yourself?

This is on my to do list. Really don't want my front bent.
 
I did not do it myself. I had to use our local diff shop, not all of us have the luxury of a bitchen fab shop at our finger tips:whistle: Plus the pumpkin had to be repaired a wee bit too
 
I did not do it myself. I had to use our local diff shop, not all of us have the luxury of a bitchen fab shop at our finger tips:whistle: Plus the pumpkin had to be repaired a wee bit too

Ahh man now I'm "that douche" everybody is annoyed of :haha:
 
Woah you bent that good! Did they tell you welding the tubes might have helped?
 
No he told me that trussing it from the git-go would of helped:whistle:. I told him I did with that pinche little Hickey truss then we both laughed. Actually I think it all started way back in the beginning on some of the test runs before I re-installed that little truss and it just got progressively worse. I've been watching it bend for at least a year or so now
 
Did you do anything special to weld it to the diff?

I will end up doing something similar, prolly with some speed holes and dimples though.

I think im gonna use 1" dom. Let me know how yours works :popcorn:
 
My 10bolt is trussed from shock mount to shock mount. Still bent it in the dunes in Michigan. The last 2 inches on both sides. Next truss will go to the inner C.
 
My 10bolt is trussed from shock mount to shock mount. Still bent it in the dunes in Michigan. The last 2 inches on both sides. Next truss will go to the inner C.

I think not going to the c is what did it.

I plan on doing a tension truss on the bottom, and doing some plating on the upper side of the inner c. Might as well, these michigan dunes are pretty brutal :haha:
 
Adam to answer your question the pumpkin needs to be pre-heated and welded with nickel rod. Then wrapped with some welding blankets to cool slowly.
 
Adam to answer your question the pumpkin needs to be pre-heated and welded with nickel rod. Then wrapped with some welding blankets to cool slowly.

So what happens if you just lay it on hot?

No access to an arc welder. Tig yes... How can i do this correct?


But in reality is it needed on a tension truss? most of the truss will be welded to the axle tubes. The diff weld connection is really jsut so it doesnt move front to back, it cant really move up if the tubes try to bend, unless it stretches....
 
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