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Discussion in 'The Garage' started by zakk, May 31, 2003.
Were discussing this in the Chat room.
how did you make your latch? pics are appreciated.
One big half inch bolt
From top to bottom
Handle (welded on)
2x2 tube to align and mount it
I think it'll work ok, last desgin could have rusten up
could you remove the stock latch from another set of doors so you wouldnt have to ruin yours? mount up the stock latch on the tube doors and it'll still use the stock sticker to. never seen the GM ones so they might be too big to use but its an idea.
that was the idea, but with no handle, how to make it close securely?
i still need to cut up my extra doors and take a look, but its worth a discussion on how other have done it.
when you push the botton, there should be a rocker of some sort that will activate the latch. you could just weld a little lever onto that?
i also would like to see some tube door latches. i've seen some really simple ones, but they rattle so loud i could hear the guy in front of me's doors over my rig.
Fullsize, what gears you got in your axles?
How about a spring loaded wedge. The wedge would pull up tight so that there would be no rattling, and if the angle is shallow, it won't pop open without pulling it.
What about a pickup tailgate latch? On on each side, mount one in each door... I'm taking the latch and hinge pieces out of my old pickup tailgate to build a tailgate for my son's K5...
I used 1/4" plate with the stock hinge pattern and nuts tap welded to the back of them. You can just bolt and unbolt the two doors. I just bought an inner set of latches from the junk yard and I'm going to mimik one into an easy slide on slide off for both doors. As for a latch, this worked very well, but having it longer where it sleaves the side of the door makes it bind less. The bolt and spring are retainers and keep it closed on bumps.. no rattle!
I incorporated the stock interior handle into my half doors... All it has to do is pull the lever to unlatch the locker. Of course, half doors are different from a tube door... so it may not work.
not too sure how this will work, but this is what i'm gonna try.
what i was thinking on using a seat belt latch. maybe fab up some plate that i can weld the push button part to and mount that to the body. the male end will be welded to the tube door and just simply click in place.
did that make any sence??
they came with 4.88s from rickb on PBB.
<font color="green"> Call me crazy, but what about a simple big-ass magnet to make the doors stick to the body when you close them? Maybe a rubber bumper to minimize the slam factor and a 2:1 lever to help "pry" the magnet off the tub to open the door. Just a thought off the top of my head, seems WAY easier than devising a latch mechanism that is easy to build and reliable. </font>
PM michael or laketex and get the part number for the latch they used. it is a DOT approved latch if i remember right. just a little handle where the stock handle would have been attached to opens the door. i, like other love it.
simple easy and works great.
Shaggs, you redeem yourself, I'm off to the hardware store in the morning
Even if not for the latch itself, it may reduce possible rattles
I thank you
This is what we used:
Just strip welded it directly to the tube. Works awesome. The trick is getting a rotary latch that is thin enough to use the stock GM striker. They have beefier DOT latches, but it would require you to change out the striker. We were looking for easy swapability btwn stock doors and tube doors.
.... a little different approach,
but this is what I've been using.
the ones you made for me have a plate welded behind the latch. then the latch is bolted to the blate. makes alingment EASY. adjustable latch.
i like the magnet idea shaggy. thats good thinking. and it will be way easyer than making a latch work.
Unless your hauling butt, hit a hard bump and it flings open.
How about something like this guys?
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