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two in-line fuses by firewall?

myraley

myraley

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Hi guys. I have two in-line smaller than normal glass fuses by the firewall, and I cant figure out what they go to. They are powered off the Alternator and starter solenoid junction, so they are always hot. The wires are black with a white stripe and black with (I think) a brown stripe. And there are these two little fuses in these rubber holders in the wiring itself. They go into the firewall panel on the top drivers side, next to the red wire that is also coming from the alternator / starter junction. I looked at a wiring diagram, and they just seem to go into the cab and then end... Any ideas? Do I need these or can I get rid of them? I am trying to clean up my engine wiring. Thanks!
Eric
 
They sound like the factory "fusable links"

I have some schematics in my gallery pages (see .sig) check the wire colors against those to confirm.

Don't bypass any fuse (or fuseable links) unless you replace it with something else. They are there for a reason....and it has to do with not allowing your truck to burn to the ground. :yikes:


:usaflag:
 
I hear you on that! but it looks like they would have gone to an ammeter and if they are going to an ammeter, and I dont have one, I'm ok, right? I'll go look at the schematics some more, but I was hoping somebody would have these too, and could tell me where they were intended to go. They are right over by but not in the wiring block on the drivers firewall.
 
Hey! I used your Autometer gauge project images to do my own! :saweet:I still have it bookmarked. I went with 2 and 1/16 gauges instead (I figured that way if I screwed up the hole, I could just enlarge it and go 2 and 5/8, but other than that, its the same and it turned out awesome! Thanks of all the images on that. :bow: The only one that isnt working right now is the trans temp, and thats because I need to go get the sender bung brazed into the pan. I have a TH400 and I tried putting it in the pressure port on the drivers side, but I got all kinds of fluctuations, so I'm gonna go with the pan. In your images under Misc. Stuff, you have one called "electrical problems circled" and you have one of these two fuses I am talking about circled in red. Why? what happened?
 
Last year my truck just stopped dead in my driveway......it was just idling normally, and then it completely died.

It wouldn't re-fire and I could smell fuel, so I knew I'd lost spark somehow.

It turned out to be a bad coil, but I was checking everything electrical and found some REALLY corroded wiring (that fuseable link basically crumbled apart when I touched it) and the external regulator bypass plug was completely green with corrosion and broke off in my hands when I tried to unplug it. I was able to cobble the wiring together enough the get the truck pulled into the garage.....and as I'm sure you've seen by now, the wiring and a few other things have been removed for re-work.


:usaflag:


Post up some pics of your gauge project when you get a chance....I'd like to see how it came out.
 
so that wire was connected to the coil somehow... I understand the wiring diagram inside the engine compartment pretty well, and I can see that they are wires 105 and 106 at the fuse block, but once they go inside, I cant follow them any more. Did you ever see where it finally went to/through? They keyed ignition maybe?
I would put up photo's today but my wifes camera is having problems. I'll try to get it working. Say, do you have a TH400 as well? I thought I saw something about that in your images. Did you put a temp sender in and if so, where and how did it work for you?
 
Post up pics if you can....I'll take a look.

My current tranny is a TH350 (for sale now BTW) I welded in the temperature sender at the front of the pan closest to the inspection cover and it worked great. Not sure what kind of clearance exists in the TH400 pan, but that's the most important consideration regardless of tranny type. Don't want to weld in the bung only to find out that the sender can't be screwed all the way in due to some sort of interference.

Back to the shop..... I'm getting some "terrifying" shots of rust repair and panel removal today. Check the "Might As Well" thread later on tonight. :deal:
 
This is really weird, I'm using Gregs photos for the same reason and also just ordered the 2-1/16" guages. I only have three small guages and haven't figured out a good fourth one to fill where the vacuum guage would go. I guess oil temp might be the best option for me. Post up some pics!
 
I will, and then we can finally find out if that tach I sent you is working. I thought about going with a vacuum gauge, but I decided to do all electric in the cluster and then run a mechanical vacuum gauge down at the bottom, as an add-on. I've got oil pressure, volt, water temp, and trans temp of the bottom and then fuel in the middle where a stock tach would have gone, and then the electric tach where the fuel normally goes. And the stock speedo, which is 5 mph off because of the tires. The gauges were the easiest part. The hard part was getting stock lights in the cluster (turn signals, speedo and high beam) to still be wired in and work. I had to sand off the back of the bulb holder with a dremel, then solder the wires on to each side to duplicate the circuit which was no longer there.
 
The hard part was getting stock lights in the cluster (turn signals, speedo and high beam) to still be wired in and work.
Click to expand...

That's the part I'm having trouble with now. I was actually thinking about trying to mount 12V white LED's into the little plastic carriers instead of using the bulbs. I'm going to the store to look for some options on how to do it best.

It's actually looking like the tach is going to go electric instead of your old one. It's not decided yet though. It looks tough to make the old faceplate work on the new electronics.
 
I went electric Autometer Sport-Comp and while it was much more expensive than the smaller gauges, it worked really well. If you get the right size (3 3/8th?) it fits into the opening for the original fuel gauge without ANY cutting, just FYI.
 
The two fuses are for the factory ammeter. They send current to both sides of the meter when the ignition is on to show either a charge off the alternator or a draw off the battery. I wish mine worked, it's been dead in the middle for years...
 
x2, What he said. ^^^

I traced the wiring in the diagram back to those when I was hooking up a voltage guage.
 
So if we have that wiring, there was an ammeter gauge? Or, probably more likely, the light that comes on and then goes off when you turn on the ignition? So, since I dont have either, I can just get rid of that wiring right?
 
On mine, both wires are black and one has a white stripe on it. If you don't have and ammeter, I'd guess you don't need them. But I found they make handy sources of 12V power for guage lights and other stuff. I'm using one for the volts guage.
 
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