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Wanna build a DRIFT-Burban

bigbluesuburban

bigbluesuburban

1/2 ton status
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This is probably best for the Lounge and probably best for some other site.. but I don't care.

I am getting tried of seeing these little tuner cars around town pulling G's in the corners and kickin' my ass off the line. I am going to start looking for a 2wd Sub to make into a drift Sub.

Now I do have a couple of questions for everyone out there.

Do you think that I should look for a .5 or .75 ton rig?

I am thinking that I will put a Caddy Motor in it, strip the interior down to NOTHING, Install a roll cage, Tub the rear for fat wide low profile tires and hit the street lookin' for tunerz to kill.

I am also thinking about an airbag suspension, but I don't want it to add too much weight to my Import Killa

Any suggestions?
 
Well now just a minute, thats no more far fetched than a "Narrowed Burb". "You'll get some leg for sure"
You could start with NASCAR TRUCK as a model.
But on typical CK5 budget, 1/2 ton and gut it, reinforce the power path.
:haha:
 
See this is MUCH easier than the narrow rig. This is doable on a serious budget.

And how much fun would a flat black, tinted window, big cam, lightweight (relatively) Killer Sub be?

Did they make a 14ff in 6 lug? I suppose if not i could have 1.5" adapters built that convert it.

I must now retire to my study to contemplate this course of action.
 
I always thought it would be cool to do a drift-like Jeep with a V8 conversion, 4WD, and lowered. It could be like a rally-cross jeep or something...
Joshua
 
highjacker... anyway, back in 94 when I was at MCAS EL TORO CA there was a guy who built a lowered YJ that he did a corvetter swap into it with an auto trans and adapted the C4 wheels to it as well. HUGE sway bars off of a 1ton something and, and an AWD tranfer case from a Typhoon or Cyclone (he found it in the junkyard, cause they were really new back then) and it flat out tore up the road. It was a really cool convertible for beach and strip cruisin'.

But no more about HEEPS!!!
 
ahhh im inspired..... start with a 1/2 ton, its lighter, caddy 500, th400, D60 or 14bsf rear, keep it on leaves or coils, bags are too soft for a suburban that plans on spending a lot of time sideways... gut the interior down to a cage and a few seats... flat black it, put it on 20s, kill some hondas.
 
bigbluesuburban said:
highjacker... anyway, back in 94 when I was at MCAS EL TORO CA there was a guy who built a lowered YJ that he did a corvetter swap into it with an auto trans and adapted the C4 wheels to it as well. HUGE sway bars off of a 1ton something and, and an AWD tranfer case from a Typhoon or Cyclone (he found it in the junkyard, cause they were really new back then) and it flat out tore up the road. It was a really cool convertible for beach and strip cruisin'.

But no more about HEEPS!!!
Click to expand...

Sorry for the hijack and Heep talk. Just reminded me of that desire. What you are describing sounds a lot like the Blazer they built on Monster Garage to race Pikes Peak. A lowered Blazer that slid around might be awesome too...that Burb may be too big...
Joshua
 
muddysub said:
ahhh im inspired..... start with a 1/2 ton, its lighter, caddy 500, th400, D60 or 14bsf rear, keep it on leaves or coils, bags are too soft for a suburban that plans on spending a lot of time sideways... gut the interior down to a cage and a few seats... flat black it, put it on 20s, kill some hondas.
Click to expand...

See there ya go. Now that is the idea...

Would you put in a selectable locker? Large sway bars F & R? I would keep the leaves for simplicity and cost.

I still need to know if they make a 1/2 ton 14FF or SF?

And if I got really inspired I could lower the body an inch just by lowering the body mounts and solid mounting the body to the frame. I would be loud and ride rough, but it would be stiff and with the addition of a properly triangulated cage it would corner like a slot car.

I think I would want one with manual options throughout and bar doors cause I like the look better.

This would be an import killer FO SHO!!!
 
14sf was made for 88-up body in 6 lug in the lt duty 3/4 ton 2wd or 1/2 ton tow package 4x4s. then 454ss trucks got a 5 lug version. for a 1/2 ton burb as you want to build i would look for a 5 lug.
 
I dont' think you would need that much axle for something like this. Granted the weight would be down low, keeping the COG lower. Why not run a 9"? Strong axles and dirt cheap. Get some gears and a spool, but look for a 4wd rear, it will have 31 spline shafts. Get some stiff lowering coils for the front, lowering spindles, and the rear, that could be tricky. Want to build the springs, but that might lift it. Get some sways off a CC or dually, you can stuff a big tire on the back without tubbing. And go for the 500 Caddy.....
 
bigbluesuburban said:
See there ya go. Now that is the idea...

Would you put in a selectable locker? Large sway bars F & R? I would keep the leaves for simplicity and cost.

I still need to know if they make a 1/2 ton 14FF or SF?

And if I got really inspired I could lower the body an inch just by lowering the body mounts and solid mounting the body to the frame. I would be loud and ride rough, but it would be stiff and with the addition of a properly triangulated cage it would corner like a slot car.

I think I would want one with manual options throughout and bar doors cause I like the look better.

This would be an import killer FO SHO!!!
Click to expand...

yes fat ass sway bars off like a superduty... a ford 9" would definetly handle the rear end duties and there cheap! i dont know about solid mounting the body, its a big body it needs to flex a little or it'll start cracking... you could get poly bushings for it and shave them down to like 1/4-3/8" thick... but you definetly want some kind of dampening there...
 
muddysub said:
yes fat ass sway bars off like a superduty... a ford 9" would definetly handle the rear end duties and there cheap! i dont know about solid mounting the body, its a big body it needs to flex a little or it'll start cracking... you could get poly bushings for it and shave them down to like 1/4-3/8" thick... but you definetly want some kind of dampening there...
Click to expand...

I like the short poly bushing idea.

And for sway bars... I was even thinking solid rod like those on the rock buggies with the modular arms.

I am still looking for a cheap 2wd burban for this project. I think I am really hooked on this idea.

I am keeping my eyes on Craigslist and such to see if something comes along.
 
solid rear suspension, I don't mean solid mount, just solid built.

If it were me I'd build a Truck Arm suspension, ala 67-72 2wd trucks. Coils, panhard, 2 longitudinal/lateral locating arms. Good and soild, with a strong panhard. There is going to be a LOT of side load on that rear suspension. No matter what setup you use, a Panhard is a MUST!!! And no cheesy junk one, a beefy Panhard.

Sway bar is a good start. All poly bushings in the front suspension is a good one. The nice strong front sway bar(and custom one in the rear). Good set of lowering coils, or drop knuckles would be better(keep stock spring rate).

Bags are absolutely not the way to go. Good for tuning but a set of rear coilovers would be the absolute best option. No not 2.5" King Coilovers, though if you want you could do that, I mean corner burner coilovers. Bags are good for a soft ride and playing with them(bouncing, etc.) nothing else in my opinion.

Frame strengthening: The Burb frames are weak, personally K5, K10, K20, K30, and Burb frames are junk in my eyes. You will NEED to strengthen around the suspension mounts(especially the panhard) in the rear. Also you will need a small cage. I'd say a 6 point in the front would be good. Will stiffen in the front and protect you in case of a roll over.

Rear: I agree, a 9" is a better way to go. Less weight, all the strength you need. Spooled or welded. If you plan to street drive a selectable could work out, but a spool or welded rear will be best for being sideways.

Transmission: MANUAL, you will need to be dumping the clutch at RPMs a lot to keep it spinning, so a GOOD manual trans(think M22 or built M21), is a must. And a good clutch. You will be going through clutches and tires like mad.(most drifters go through a set of a tires an event, if not a run)

Tires: doesn't need to be anything crazy expensive or wide(you aren't looking for traction here). Guys I know have been running junk tires(literally). They go to the junkyard and buy old hard tires. Throw them on, and burn them off. Make for good practice tires.

Engine: HORSEPOWER!!! Forced induction would be a thought. The light little drift cars, are running 300+ HP, so figure for a Burb at almost twice the weight, at least twice the power...

Weight: LOSE EVERYTHING. A Burb is a pig, and even after you remove all the weight you can, its still a giant brick especially when you get it sideways...

To make a Burb slide, in my opinion? Budget? uhhh no....
 
^^ everything in that post shold be taken as absolute fact ^^
 
Well, depending upon budget, I would go for 92-newer, I believe the 2wd weight less to begin with. Moreover, if you get a 3/4 you can find a 454 tbi rather than dropping in a caddy 500. At that point a MPFI or supercharger. Plus, the newer body-styles have the strong auto or you can find one with an NV4500 (which would be best IMHO). I know the 3/4 is a bit more weight, but I feel that the newer 3/4 weights the same as the older 1/2 tons. Then at that point you already have either a 14ff or 14sf.

I also think the 9" rear is a good idea, those are under alot of truck that see so much abuse, they can be built to take alot!

Another idea: if you get a newer body-style, and get a 350tbi, you can drop a supercharger on there for not all that much (better than a caddy 500 IMHO) for the low end torque.

I would look on eBay for government auctions, I always see 2wd HD truck in there, usually awesome prices too. Should be a fun project!:D
 
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