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Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Swanson52, Mar 28, 2002.
Anyone have any experiences with the Warn full floating conversion kit for the 10/12b?
i have one . i like it , but i didnt put it together .
Have it, and IMO its the best mod u can do to a 1/2-3/4 ton rear end...
Will this kit, in addition to a good carrier (Detroit) and an axle truss such as the one available from Missouri Offroad, allow my 10b to live with 35 Swamper SSRs in mud and with light (and I stress LIGHT) rock and sand 'wheeling? Any opinions would be appreciated.
How much does this kit cost and how difficult is it to install? Thanks.
I run 35s on my rear 10b that has the full floater kit and its worked great. I have no truss. I do have newish gears and a Detroit Trutrac tho...
Most of the questions I have relate to the installation after the axlehousing end is cut off. How does the kit install after that? Did you use the brake drums or upgrade to the disc brakes? What components are used if you use the disc brakes (calipers, rotors)?
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the Warn full floating conversion kit
What does it consist of?
I believe the kit is in the $1000 range, which is a lot of money and still doesn't make the housing any stronger. So with another $250 or so you can get a truss....but is it worth spending that kind of money on a 10/12 bolt??????
The ring gear will still be weak as well. I would upgrade to a 14 bolt at a fraction of that cost if you want full floating, bigger ring gear and stout housing. It would be much less to put in Detroit, and virtually impossible to break with 35" tires.
yes but for those of us who dont want to make our trucks obese with 14boltffs this is the mod to do, ie desert trucks or with 305s both of which mine is , and dont go trying to tell me a 14 blt isn that heavy ... . as for what the kit includes ORD has a page on it ,as for the install u may need new wheels or if u already have aftermarket u should be good to go , the reason being the rear hub is larger than stock .the disc brake brackets are an option , it is possible to use drums but what for , they stink ....any more questions ?
Yeah it is heavier, I just put one in. If you want strength and durability at a good price, it is the way to go. If you want to spend a lot of $$$ get the kit for you 10/12 bolt. Unless you are really in need of saving a few hundred pounds, I would say 14 bolt. With the ff kit, gears, detroit, and a truss you are looking at what $2000 in parts? You could spend all that money on the 10/12 bolt and still not be as strong as a 14 bolt.
Just my thoughts as a frugal wheeler.
And I checked ORD and the Warn site, no info on the ff kit. The ORD page was blank when I viewed it.
strong enuff for my right foot and 35s to 36s
For me it is a money issue. It may be strong enough after all that building to handle 35 or 36 tires, but that is still a lot of cash to spend. He wanted opinions, so that is mine. Would you spend $1000 upgrading a dana-44 or buy a dana 60? Thats my same thought as the rear end. You will always being trying to work around the fact that a 10/12 bolt is just not a tough axle by design.
i added all the crap up and it would be about the same price to do either ...for me anyways
how do ya figure that? The ff kit alone costs more than a complete working 14ff. And a Detroit for a 14ff is like $350 vs what about $550 for a 10/12 bolt? And then he wanted to run a truss, isnt the Missouri River one like $250. I dunno all the prices for sure, but would be interested to see a cost break down on both.
if you add tires, rims, drive lines, shock mounts, welding, etc it adds up. you'd save some mo on tires and rims if you went with the 10/12 bold. then there is the 14sf, not sure how they hold up but definatly stronger thatn the 12 bolt. as for K10ANDY running his 10/12bolt hard, he does ask anyone who's seen him in action. i have.
True, forgot about the rims, although you can get 15" rims and reuse your tires, and your driveline might still work depending on your particular set up. I was lucky to get a 14ff that already was set-up for a Blazer, so I didnt have to move perches or shock mounts.
thanks Arq , u saved me a bunch of typing ! /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
yeah where ya been latley ?we have a half day tomorrow , and ima be wrenching from like er say uh 1;00 or so till i get done , oh and the 208 project is coming together good so far also ...- Andy
One of the issues people are overlooking in this debate is the availability of a ff14b. For most of you it sounds like they are a dime a dozen. Where I live they are impossible to get ahold of, and in the event one can be found, a stock used ff14b will cost in the neighborhood of 1000 bucks to just get it home. THEN to modify on top of that adds up to a pretty expensive ordeal. And I stress, if one can be found.
On the other hand, I already have a 10 bolt, and I know by the time I spend 1500 bucks every component except for the housing itself will be brand new and have warranted parts. I was just curious as to what others have done to the same axle and what kinds of results they had.
Also, I couldn't get the ORD page to come up either. What else do you need to buy if you buy the disc brake brackets for the ff kit? Rotors, calipers, brake lines? Thanks for the input!
Here's a breakdown of what it cost me for the 14FF rear axle conversion, including swapping the front 10-bolt over to 8-lug:
- complete 14FF w/ 4.10 gears = $100 (there are tons available around here ranging from $100-$250)
- move shock mounts (the 14FF was out of a 2wd) = free by a friend, can't imagine a welding shop would charge more than $50
- u-bolts - $50 from Napa
- front 8-lug hubs and rotors = $50
- set of five 15x10 8-lug rims, steel white spokes = $220 delivered (I then sold my four 6-lug rims for $300)
Total = $420....actually $340 if the take into account theouble and survived several years of semi-serious wheeling with 35" tires once beefed with a Detroit Tru-trac, aftermarket 4.10's, and heavy duty axle shafts. The problem is that I put over $700 worth of parts into it and still wound up in the long run with an axle I didn't trust for more serious wheeling and bigger tires.
Future plans are something to take into consideration. Sure, the beefed 10-bolt might hold up to 35" - 36" tires okay but if you decide to go bigger in the future you are stuck. You can always sell used parts but realistically only expect about a 50% return.
There are positive and negative points to each route (upgrading 10/12 bolt or swapping to 14FF). The 14FF is definitely much stronger stock than even the most beefed 10 or 12, and in most cases should be cheaper. The front 10-bolt is now the weak spot but if I can ever go to a Dana 60 front the 14-bolt is already in the back and ready to go. Plus if you ever do break the front end and can't fix it on the trail, you don't have to worry about the rear axle while trying to get off the trail in 2wd. Remember that in 4wd you are splitting the torque 50/50 to the front and rear, if you are forced to go to 2wd you are placing 100% into the rear axle which can cause issues (I have seen a lot of people break the other axle when trying to get around 2wd after breaking either the front or rear, thus leaving the truck helpless). The 10 or 12 does offers better clearance (though shaving the 14FF helps make up some of the difference), less weight, and you don't have to swap as many parts around.
Unlike some people on this board, I'm not going to argue to the death that the choice I made is the best for everybody, it's simply the choice I made and what I consider the best option.
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