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Way to get rust off ac clutch??

brans87

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87 K5 tbi with serp belt conversion ac worked fine for a month then Freiburg leaked out.

Found leak but because didn't fix right alway clutch on compressor got rusty.

Now when cut it own likes to throw belt.

Does have recent belt and tensioner.

Any ideas ?
 
I would think that maybe the tensioner is stuck, but I could definitely be wrong.
I would think that if it was the rust on the clutch, using it would clean it off fairly quickly.
It just seems weird that rust on the clutch would not go away faster, and kick the belt off.
I am probably no help....
 
rusted clutch would turn the compressor, if compressor is not froze up.
 
Bran, don't try turning on the compressor again until you verify this.
I'm getting a bad vibe from your two threads. You say that the compressor throws the belt when you turn it on. Does it do it as soon as you hit the switch, or after a short time. You also asked how to set the pressure switch.
Taking those two together makes me wonder about the high side pressure.
Before you turn the compressor back on, put a high side gauge on the system. With the system off for at least a couple of minutes, the high side and low side should be the same.
If the high side is higher, STOP.
Do Not turn that system back on until you have found the blockage.
If the pressures are equal, turn it on and watch the high side with your hand on the switch. If it starts climbing fast, going past 300 and heading higher, kill it. You have a blockage, probably in the drier.
A blockage there would cause the pressure switch to trip out because it was being starved for freibergs.
Sorry, I had to......
But a high side blockage would cause way too much load on the compressor, or cause it to lock up entirely, both of which could cause it to throw the belt. And could also cause a line to explode.

I see too many people charging a system with only the low side gauges. Very bad idea. I especially like the do it yourself kits they sell now in parts houses that you just hook to the low side and put in gas until the built in gauge says its full.
Great way to destroy a compressor or blind someone when a hose ruptures.

Otherwise, the only way rust would cause the belt to jump off is if the grooves in the compressor pulley were full of rust or dirt. A hand wire brush brushing with the grooves should take care of that.
 
Fixed belt stays on now!

Went to parts house and gave my buddy the vin # from the truck I took all the accessories off of and belt is actually little shorter.

Blows cold now and belt is staying on but, now compressor sounds like super fast piston slap.

Murphy's law I guess.

Fordum was right with gauges no blockage. He saw the pic I sent him. Roughly 104 both gauges truck off and valves open.
 
Make sure the gauges are good with the compressor running. High side not too high.
Then look at the suction line going into the compressor. Make sure there is no frost within a foot or so of the compressor, or even much sweating. If there is, you might be starting to get liquid into the compressor which will destroy it very quickly.
If the high pressure is not too high, and no frost or sweating to the compressor, then I would shop around for a new one.
If its coming apart inside, it is liable to put metal shavings or other trash into your orifice and other parts.
If the drier is new, you can get everything ready, pump the system down to 0, take everything loose before removing the line. Then swap lines to the new compressor.
Pull a vacuum on the system and recharge it.
If you don't leave it open long, you should not have to change the drier. Just make sure the pressure is 0 or very slightly above before breaking the seals. You do not want any vacuum to suck in air and moisture.
 
Just an FYI, I have 2 ACdelco R4 compressors that are noisy. One MAY be because the cycling switch was set wrong, (?) It sounds bad, cools great. The other works great, but sounds like I have a stick in the engine fan at low idle/ high head pressure situations. It's been like that for over a year.
 
R-4s do tend to open up the rod bearings or something over time and make noise. I had one sound like a bear growling for about 5 years, but it never failed. I would turn it off when I pulled in somewhere just from embarrassment. The good news is that they're a very high displacement compressor. Jumping ship to a Sanden usually means the total cooling capacity is reduced. Also, the more recent years Delco R-4s have an improved design that runs quieter. Don't know what they changed.
 
R-4s do tend to open up the rod bearings or something over time and make noise. I had one sound like a bear growling for about 5 years, but it never failed. I would turn it off when I pulled in somewhere just from embarrassment. The good news is that they're a very high displacement compressor. Jumping ship to a Sanden usually means the total cooling capacity is reduced. Also, the more recent years Delco R-4s have an improved design that runs quieter. Don't know what they changed.
But the one that I put on my '95, last summer, was an ACdelco one purchased 2 weeks prior. Wouldn't that be a fairly late one?
 
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