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What breaks more on a D44 front?

For those of us that don't need a D60 or have the 1500+ bucks to buy and condition one for use.


You can have sick high dollar built d44 and it still wont be as strong as a stock 60 thats been sitting in the weeds for 20 years. Think about that when you drop 2k into a 44.

He already said he didnt want to drop alot of money.
 
With good shafts and high dollar u joints you are still left with a small ring and pinion, which usually holds up.

You will need a good supply of locking hubs if you are trying to build a 44 for harder use on a big truck

Both statements can be validated by me. :thumb:

4130 axle shafts, and some beefy U-joints, go a long way! :D
Just drive smart.

Well... I drive stupid.
But, if you drive smart, they'll last a while.

P.s.

Always bring spare axle-shafts, U-joints, and locking hubs.
It may seem dumb, but sometimes dumb happens. :deal:
 
You can have sick high dollar built d44 and it still wont be as strong as a stock 60 thats been sitting in the weeds for 20 years. Think about that when you drop 2k into a 44.

I have always kept this in the back of my mind. But before that :), I already went out and got crossover, Warns, 4.56 gears, install kit, Trutrac, all outer bearings, seals, ball joints, spindle studs, and paint into this D44. :D I have spare axle shafts with new U joints as well. I'll be sporting this axle for some time. :waytogo:
 
Hey, TheBeast. I've heard from a few people (who even have D60s) that in a lightweight rig like a blazer, a nice lightweight built D44 can make the rig even more capable than a heavier D60. It just depends on the driver and tire size.
 
IMHO terrain is one of the biggest factors when determining if an axle will hold up to a certain tire size - rig weight also.

Exactly....

You can climb hills ALL day w/ a stock front....
But, wedge a 35 in between two rocks, w/ the rig's weight on it....
*Pop* goes the ______:whistle:
 
Of course it could be said driving style is the biggest determining factor in it too.

When I had my zuk I ran 33s on stock axles. I knew guys who were blowing up axles on 31s with ease. Not to say I didn't break a couple axles but it was not frequent.

I did pretty hard rocks with that rig too.

There is alot to be said for building a 44 up to a point where its nearly as strong as a stock 60 I may just do that for my Jimmy build the 10 bolt because I will never run bigger than 38s on it. If I do something major has happened in my life ( like lotto winning):D More ground clearance is the major key there, but it does reach its limits very fast.
 
So you guys think my ten bolts are fine fore the sand dunes?? I'll never climb any rocks with it
 
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I have seen my brother pound the d44 out of my truck with a 383 at 6200lbs. Open diff on heavy xzl's. He pounded it on trails with the tires straight. Not when the tires where turned very much. It did finally wallow out the u-joint cup holes in the axle.

I suggest locating some extra shafts and go wheelin. When you break something you will know the limits and learn how to stay under them.
 
^^^ what he said, driving style is important.

Don't put high dollar u joints in stock shafts they will break the shafts because the shaft is weaker. Spicer u joints or Neapco for me. I usually don't put greasable ones in the axles because I think the non greaseable ones are stronger

X2. And be sure your steering stops are in place.
 
Hey, TheBeast. I've heard from a few people (who even have D60s) that in a lightweight rig like a blazer, a nice lightweight built D44 can make the rig even more capable than a heavier D60. It just depends on the driver and tire size.


A lighter rig will be a more capable rig in most situations. Some examples where a heavier rig is better are:

Using your rig to tow out another. Simple momentum and inertia, a heavy rig makes towing something out easier.

Snow/mud that has a bottom, a heavier truck can sink to the bottom and grab a better surface.


For most other situations a lighter rig is going to be better. It's the same thing as racing a car, a car that's twice as heavy with twice as much power will always be slower around the track.

Four wheeling (other than in the mud) is ideally a balance of low COG, big tires, high clearance, light weight, etc. Of course with bigger tires means heavier axles with less clearance which is somewhat of a step backwards.

The big deal with going to a bigger axle is being to reliably run a bigger tire, with more clearance under the axle (many people make the statement that bigger axles have WAY less clearance but it's often only one tire size which is more than made up for by the bigger tires you could run). In my experience I have seen over and over, a 5000 lb vehicle on 40's will almost always be more capable than a 3000 lb one on 35's. The weight is a detriment but the bigger tires mean more.

There's always more to it and suspension setup, drivers, COG, belly height, approach/departure angles etc mean a ton

But watch a 5500 lb vehicle on 42's vs a 4000 lb vehicle on 42's and you'll see why weight is so important :cool:
 
Everyone always say's,
"If you're gonna spend the cash to build a 10b/d44, why not just buy a stock D60....It's still stronger."

Yea... stronger, but also old, used, and more than likely... abused.
Complete rebuild, much?

I rebuilt my 10b for the price of a used 60, around here.
I'm happy with it. :thumb:

Also, a D60 is heavy.
Not that I've driven on one, but they're big, bulky, heavy sumbeaches.
But if you have the power.... Screw it. :woot:

.....

Also, fwiw...

I have more $$$ in my D60's Knuckles and locker, than I do in my entire (fully capable) 10b!!!
 
"If you're gonna spend the cash to build a 10b/d44, why not just buy a stock D60....It's still stronger."
The 60 also has all the room to upgrade.


Yea... stronger, but also old, used, and more than likely... abused.
But still stronger.

Also, a D60 is heavy.
Which allows you to run heavier tires.

Our trucks are heavy, big, and fat. I have seen way too many 10/44 axle carnage on the trails. I have also seen 60 damage as well. But not nearly as much as half ton stuff on big fat heavy blazers trying to be buggies.
 
I'm just sayin'... for MOST it's completely impractical, to build up a D60.

That said, I'm still building one. :D
 
I have also seen 60 damage as well. But not nearly as much as half ton stuff on big fat heavy blazers trying to be buggies.

yah what Chaddy said.

In all reality the bottom line is no one is really going to know exactly whats going to work for you. In the years that I have been on here and have been wheeling I have heard the statement from tons of guys, I will never run bigger than x tires. I will never need bigger than x axles.

Some guys thats true with, other folks just keep on getting more and more into it, keep going wheeling more and more, want to try harder stuff, go further into the back country, go on longer trips etc.

But more often than not those guys eventually go to one tons.

Our trucks are fat and heavy. Big tires require strong axles. 44 and 10 bolts can be built to be adequate, 60s can be built to handle 44" tires without much issue.

It boils down to how much you are willing to spend, how far you think you are going to take your truck and how modified your truck ends up
 
I have to agree with the advocates of dana 60s but I think it is important to know what size tire you plan on running before you choose.

For me, the majority of trails that I have locally and run regularly dont require larger than 33-36" tires and I dont feel like I need a dana 60 for my tire size/terrain.

We have a few offroad parks locally that offer more hardcore wheelin but the fact is I mostly run the trails on forestry land and they would not be a lot of fun if I ran big tires. In fact several of my favorite trails are a tight fit with my tire size and there are a few sections that I simply wouldnt fit if I were even an inch wider, assuming that most taller tires are wider as well.

So the way I look at it is that if you normally run trails that require big tires and aggressive driving then you need the strength of bigger axles. It doesnt matter how much money you pour into a 10b/dana44 a dana 60 will always be stronger.
 
So you guys think my ten bolts are fine fore the sand dunes?? I'll never climb any rocks with it

Really, the stock 10-bolts are fine for 33's and sand. The front is better than the rear, though. Just don't catch air.
 
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