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What does ORD HD Engine Crossmember install entail?

sokoloka

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Thinking this is the next upgrade I'd like to put in my truck along with their solid motor mounts and steering box brace kit.

From the little blurb on their website, you have to cut out the current crossmember and just BOLT theirs in?

Can I do this with the engine in place? If anyone who's done this can give me a little detailed writeup that would be much appreciated please :)
 
here's a pic...

duallysaturday012.jpg


3 bolts on the bottom, 2 facing front to back, and 1 more on the inside of the engine tower...you need to drill the holes, that's all there is to it...:waytogo:


# of bolts is per side....
 
I installed one in a '90 K5 this summer and it went fairly easy in my opinion. Yes, you can leave the engine in the truck. I didn't even have a hoist holding up on it. I did have it easy as the front axle was out of the truck for a swap, so I had lots of room to work.

Can I ask why you are thinking of the solid motor mounts? I would think that would be hard on things when the frame flexes.
 
It’s been several years since I installed mine but I do not remember it being any challenge to put in.

I am with 6873xtc on the solid engine mount inquiry. Stock mounts, especially the horrible replacement types from any part store are just horrible, but I found the Energy Suspension mounts to be the perfect balance between flex and durability without the engine feeling like it is hard mounted to the frame like solid mounts. In other words, I don’t feel any engine vibration but at least these Energy mounts haven’t failed yet. See those scars on my 8.1L oil pan? Those are from cheap Napa mounts failing causing the pan to kiss the ORD xmember….Not just one set of Napa mounts failed, but two sets. The third time I replaced them I went with Energy inserts.



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Pan laying on the ORD xmember after the Napa mounts caved in
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Crap Napa mount on the right. The 8.1L ate two sets :haha:
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I've been using solid mounts since 08 or 09. Never noticed my tcase shifter moving any more/less than it did before. Didn't notice any more vibration either. I would just use whatever is easier/cheaper/more convenient. I like the solid mounts cuz they use the same bushing and bolt as my leaf springs. I haven't ever really heard of the clamshells failing, so I don't think the strength upgrade is a huge deal for most of us. I do think the solid style would work better as the bushing wears out...but that's pretty moot since you should just replace the damn bushing in either design once it starts wearing out.

Whatever you do, use serrated flange bolts for the block and regular bolts with stover nuts for everything else. That will work way better than lockwashers for keeping them from coming loose.
 
Little bit of work & effort is all. Not hard at all.
 
Is it true you need a right angle drill to install one? I am in desperate need of one along with the poly motor mounts as my 454s pan is almost resting on my factory one and the mounts are newish. Plus if I ever need to pull my oil pan, like for example to change the wretched oil pan gasket that is leaking, in its current form I would have to pull/raise the motor, and dropping a crossmember is a much more attractive alternative.
 
Is it true you need a right angle drill to install one? I am in desperate need of one along with the poly motor mounts as my 454s pan is almost resting on my factory one and the mounts are newish. Plus if I ever need to pull my oil pan, like for example to change the wretched oil pan gasket that is leaking, in its current form I would have to pull/raise the motor, and dropping a crossmember is a much more attractive alternative.

Depends on how much lift the truck has. We use every existing hole we can but we do add a few, including a few on the bottom of the frame that can be tough to drill with lower lifts.
 
I've been using solid mounts since 08 or 09. Never noticed my tcase shifter moving any more/less than it did before. Didn't notice any more vibration either. I would just use whatever is easier/cheaper/more convenient. I like the solid mounts cuz they use the same bushing and bolt as my leaf springs. I haven't ever really heard of the clamshells failing, so I don't think the strength upgrade is a huge deal for most of us. I do think the solid style would work better as the bushing wears out...but that's pretty moot since you should just replace the damn bushing in either design once it starts wearing out.

Whatever you do, use serrated flange bolts for the block and regular bolts with stover nuts for everything else. That will work way better than lockwashers for keeping them from coming loose.

Wait Im not following here. You're saying you have solid mounts but then mention they use the same bushing as your leaf springs? If theres a bushing then thats not a solid mount. You may be using a tube bushing fabricated to the engine but its still a bushing.

I solid mount is nothing but a bracket on the engine and a bolt sleeve solidly welded to a frame standoff bolted together. No rubber, no aluminum, no poly, no delrin, nothing. Metal to metal.
 
yes, I had to use my pneumatic right angle drill for the bottom ones. Any right angle will work. Or, remove the axle. :D

my engine was out at the time, made it easier to jump right in and start knockin rivets :)
 
Wait Im not following here. You're saying you have solid mounts but then mention they use the same bushing as your leaf springs? If theres a bushing then thats not a solid mount. You may be using a tube bushing fabricated to the engine but its still a bushing.

I solid mount is nothing but a bracket on the engine and a bolt sleeve solidly welded to a frame standoff bolted together. No rubber, no aluminum, no poly, no delrin, nothing. Metal to metal.

I hear a lot of people refer to the comp style mounts as "solid" mounts. I've also seen very few true solid mounts....the one time I play along with the misnomer instead of correcting people, I get caught lol. The OP was referring to ORDs solid mounts...I haven't been on their site in a while, but I was only aware of their comp style mounts like I have, so I was just going along with it. Regardless, I don't think a leaf spring bushing is going to deflect significantly anyway.

"63s" and "1 ton TREs" bug the **** outta me too, so I was just giving up and going along with the misnomer here Haha.

As far as having room for a drill, I don't see how you wouldn't have enough room if you fully drooped the axle. I have stock 52s in the front so the axle is only 3-4" further away than stock. I know you can droop that axle more than 4" away from the engine, so even with no lift you should be able to with some creativity.
 
Alright, well hopefully 8in of suspension lift will leave me room. I already pulled the axle once for a sheared centering pin and I dont wana go to school mommy.
 
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