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What Is Going On With My Steering?

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PaulZ

1/2 ton status
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Jan 18, 2016
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My '83 K5 has an odd steering issue. I haven't centered my steering wheel yet, and under normal conditions the top sits at about 11 o'clock going straight. If I take a hardish right hand turn, it will only return back to about 1 o'clock going straight and stay that way until I make a left, then go back to 11 o'clock.

When I bought it I replaced the ball joints, everything else seems tight. I just tightened up the steering box adjustment (just the top screw). It doesn't wobble over bumps or do anything else funny, actually handles quite well. Stock ride height and springs. If I wiggle the wheel back and forth while parked it feels tight, cannot detect they play. It's as if something shifts under directional changes. It's an ex-diesel with power steering and hydro boost brakes if that makes a difference.
 
Sounds like you need to check if the axle is moving front to back on the spring.
You will need some help, have them turn the wheel all of the way both directions, maybe even bounce it slightly at the end of the travel. Even just shake it back and forth from center. You can shake it with the engine off, then start it to check further.
 
Sheared spring center bolts,or a front spring "eye" where the bushing sits can crack ,its not uncommon to find this on old square bodies...bad original spring bushings and shackle bushings can let the axle move around some too..another thing,make sure the steering box bolts are tight and the frame is not cracked in that area...any slop in either rag joint between the steering box and colum can cause that also..
 
Thanks guys, I had the springs out not too long ago but I will double check that. I have heard of frame cracks at the steering box, and have given it a cursory look and didn't see anything, is it usually obvious by looking underneath and through the fenderwell?
 
You'll have to have a helper turn the steering wheel back and forth rapidly with it running while you watch for any excess movement of the steering box in relation to the frame--this will also help pinpoint any movement of the axle at the u-bolts due to a sheared center bolt or bad bushings,cracked "eye" too...
 
For the frame crack, with the truck running, grab the rag joint and rock it back and forth and watch the box compared to the frame. Should be obvious.
 
Any axle to spring related movement should have shiny wear areas on the spring. Any time things move that aren't supposed to you should be able to spot the new wear. Also make sure that your steering arm isn't loose at the knuckle connection.
 
every square body I have ever had did that. 2wd and 4wd. new and old. I just chalk it up to being a chevy...
 
ktmoutfront said:
For the frame crack, with the truck running, grab the rag joint and rock it back and forth and watch the box compared to the frame. Should be obvious.
Click to expand...


Just did this and did see a bit of flex, then crawled under and it looks like there is at least one crack leading out from a bolt.

Man, I'm doing my best to love this truck but it's playing hard to get.
 
Frame plate, and if its going to have bigger tires or cross over, the box brace as well.
 
Make sure you did not tighten the steering gear adjustment too tight also. That can cause the box to bind and lock up. I always jack up and adjust a little at a time til it just barely gets tight. It will feel weird if it was real loose for a long time cuz you changed the wear spot.
 
Yes have someone watch the front tires as you wiggle the wheel. If they move front to back your rearend is moving. I had loose U-volts do that.Torqued to 60 LB.
 
Rear u-bolts torque is more like 120 ft-lbs..I've seen more rear spring center bolts shear than front ones too,though a curb impact can shear the front ones pretty easily too,especially if the U-bolts are not torqued good..
 
Just want to report some progress. Turned out my U-bolts were embarrassingly (and dangerously) loose. So you guys pegged it, that did the trick. The crack in my frame at the steering box is just beginning best I can tell, the very front bolt hole is cracked part way around and a crack about 1/2" long leading from that. I put a larger stiff flat washer on the bolt and will monitor that.

While I had the wheels off I put back on the wheels and tires that came with the truck, they are big, 315/75/16 I think, about 35 inches tall. It rides pretty good but it's got me wondering, is that a lot of stress on the wimpy 7/16", 6 lug studs?
 
PaulZ said:
Just want to report some progress. Turned out my U-bolts were embarrassingly (and dangerously) loose. So you guys pegged it, that did the trick. The crack in my frame at the steering box is just beginning best I can tell, the very front bolt hole is cracked part way around and a crack about 1/2" long leading from that. I put a larger stiff flat washer on the bolt and will monitor that.

While I had the wheels off I put back on the wheels and tires that came with the truck, they are big, 315/75/16 I think, about 35 inches tall. It rides pretty good but it's got me wondering, is that a lot of stress on the wimpy 7/16", 6 lug studs?
Click to expand...
No, factory axles/wheel studs will easily hold up to 35s, especially if you are on the street only, offroad if you beat the crap out of the truck you may run into problems but thats about it.
 
I dont know--if the streets where he lives are as in as bad shape as the ones around here,the truck will get a beating!...roads here are mostly potholed and crumbling,my truck rides like the axles are welded to the frame,especially up front..
I think some of the dirt roads and fire trails here are smoother in comparison !..

Glad you tracked down the problem--I'd get after that frame crack,it'll spread quickly and be much harder to fix if you ignore it too long..big tires put more strain on the frame at the steering box..
 
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